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You don’t have to save me, you

just have to hold my hand

while I save myself.
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As a freelance writer of creative nonfiction, I write to inspire hope for those struggling to heal from trauma. Thanks for reading my posts. If you'd like to read my archived blog posts, use this link.

  • Writer: Connard Hogan
    Connard Hogan
  • Nov 8
  • 10 min read

Bottom line: The best laid plans often go astray.


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Sunset near Quincy, CA.


Mark R. (once again using the moniker of Wrong-way) and I made a last minute alteration to our hike plan (the section from Horseshoe Meadow to Bishop Pass). Instead, we opted for a stretch of trail in lower elevation, and thus, with less chance of inclement weather, vis-à-vis snow. Wrong-way liked the section between Sierra City, CA (mm 1196.6) and Chester, CA (mm 1332.3).


Note: Though, we opted to hike northbound some days, and southbound some days, I provide the northbound mile-marker designations for consistency, since we're headed northward overall anyway.


And, as per our two-vehicle availability, we anticipated moving our cars as necessary to maximize our one-day hikes, decrease the number of overnights on the trail ... and thus carry less weight (tent, sleeping bags, water, warm weather clothing and food). In addition, we'd have the option to hike northbound or southbound, depending which direction we considered the most advantageous for each section between our positioned vehicles at road junctions (increasing or decreasing elevation, for example). What a plan! Thru-hikers can't do that! Prim8 was all in on the idea, of course.


10.20.25, Monday, Day 0 - Wrong-way and I rendezvoused in Chester, a drive of some 538 miles for me, for an overnight stay there prior to starting our segment hiking. My drive went smoothly and the fall colors of deciduous trees near Lassen National Park were stunning, which helped offset the depressing and seemingly endless burned, blackened pines.

10.21.25, Tuesday, Day 1 - Frost coated my car's windshield in Chester as Wrong-way and Prim8 anticipated beginning our first day's segment hike.


My car positioned at Highway 36/PCT junction (mm 1332.3), we then drove to Humboldt Summit parking area (mm 1312.8) in Wrong-way's car.


Starting our hike at 8:30AM under a cloudless sky and temperature of 36 degrees F, I anticipated feeling chilled as we headed NOBO (northbound), though soon warmed up as per usual from the exertion of hiking.


To my surprise, we came upon the PCT "Halfway Monument" (mm 1320.7). (Due to yearly reroutes, however, the actual halfway point is now estimated to be closer to mile 1325.1.) Though, Wrong-way and I had skipped a considerable section of the PCT from Horseshoe Meadow to here, we nevertheless commemorated our arrival. After all, we fully expected to hike every mile of the trail at some time, regardless.


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Prim8 points NOBO from

the PCT Halfway Marker.


I spotted a sticker inside the registration box at the Halfway Monument, and pointed it out to Wrong-way. We both chuckled.


"I go through this every day," I joked to Wrong-way. Prim8 knew exactly what I meant.


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Sticker on the registration box

at the PCT Halfway Monument.


Several miles on, we passed two men engaged in trail maintenance. One informed us that the Dixie Fire had consumed about 980,000 acres in 2021. Note: I've since researched that fire and learned it burned for two months, reached a final size of 963,309 acres (that's 1,505 square miles!) and was the second-largest single wildfire in California history at the time.


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Wrong-way (Mark) pauses

on the trail. (Note: We were to

see many burned pine trees.)


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A view of burned pine forest with

Mt. Lassen (background, near centered).


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A better view of Mt.

Lassen from the trail.


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Further evidence of a fire.


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Evidence of forest regeneration.


We camped near Soldier Creek at mm 1325.4, some 12.6 miles from our start. Then, we munched on cold, dry food. No cooking on the trail for us! We avoided schlepping cooking gear, stove and fuel on the trail. Why carry the weight?


10.22.25, Wednesday, Day 2 - The temperature a bit warmer, and with no frost present at 8:11AM, we continued NOBO in light wind through the remnant of burned pine forest.


I noticed a familiar pain aside the heel of my left foot as we hiked. Sure enough, when I checked later, I discovered a blister.


Dang it, Prim8! I won't forget to grease my feet again.


Once at Highway 36 junction (mm 1332.3), we drove to Belden Town to drop my car, then headed to Humboldt Summit parking area in Wrong-way's RAV4.


10.23.25, Thursday, Day 3 - Under clear sky and in a light, but chilling breeze, we left our car camp at Humboldt Summit at 7:30AM, SOBO (southbound). Before we started, however, I'd applied a pad to my foot's blistered area, then smeared an ample amount of Vaseline to both feet. (And which I would continue to do daily.)


That should fix it, Prim8.


Low growing brush, from one to one-and-a-half feet high, crowded the trail for several long stretches.


No place to be wearing short pants, Prim8!


At ~mm 1300, a sign informed us of the transition boundary from the Cascade Mountain Range to the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Soon after, I concluded the trail condition had worsened when the rounded, smaller pumice stones disappeared, replaced by irregular, jagged ones of various composition that created a greater tripping hazard!


At 6PM, as nightfall approached, and unable to find a nearby designated trail campsite, we discovered a level area aside the trail, large enough for the footprint of Wrong-way's two-man tent (~mm 1296.6?).


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Can you spot our

makeshift campsite?

(BTW, we left no discernible

traces of our presence.)


10.24.25, Friday, Day 4 - Breaking camp, we continued SOBO at 7:51AM. Prim8 complained constantly about knee pain as we hiked this 8.6-mile rocky stretch descending nearly 2,600 feet in elevation, though not at a steady grade. Slowed by the agony of painful knees (mine), we arrived at my car in Belden Town (mm 1288.0) at 1:30PM.


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Wrong-way prepares to peruse the

"dubious luxuries" at the Belden

Town Resort Lodge.


After retrieving Mark's car, we discussed various options, revised our plan, then drove both vehicles to a hotel in Chester.


Blame it on age, or poor physical conditioning ... and though I had thoughts of becoming a wuss ... I put up no fuss when Wrong-way had suggested this option. I preferred to blame it on my painful knees! Prim8 wasn't complaining, that's for sure.


10.25.25, Saturday, Day 5 - During an intermittent light rain in Chester, we enjoyed a cooked breakfast at Cravings Restaurant. Sated for the moment, we prepositioned my car at Bucks Lake Road junction (mm 1269.1), then drove Wrong-way's vehicle to Big Creek Road junction (mm 1264.7).


Dressed for rain, our 4.6-mile trek to my car proceeded in relatively dry conditions, though the sky broke open just as we finished our hike.


Great timing, Prim8! "Just in time," I joked with Wrong-way.


We retrieved Mark's RAV4, and made a beeline for the Old Sierra City Hotel, where we secured a room.


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Prim8 embraces the Old

Sierra City Hotel as

"Home, Sweet Home".


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Restroom sign at Old Sierra

City Hotel, least anyone get

confused.


Wrong-way and I sauntered down the double-lane main street (the only street there that I could discern) to Sorracco's Saloon, less than a hundred yards distance. With a considerable selection of beer and liquor from which to choose, we sampled some of Ron's wares, as we chatted with him and other fellow imbibers.


My selection of a "Kentucky Tangerine Cream" beer hit the spot. Very tasty it was, and Prim8 loved it! That encouraged me to imbibe with a shot of Mary Dowling bourbon ... though I'm not a connoisseur by any means, I just like to experience different things. Wrong-way stuck with beer.


Returned to the Old Sierra City Hotel, we had dinner, then hunkered in for the night.


10.26.25, Sunday, Day 6 - Rain continued throughout the day. (Would've been a misery for us to hike). Anticipating the weather's improvement, we prepositioned Wrong-way's car at a campground (mm 1221) near "A Tree spring". (I kid you not about that name.) One rough patch on the road nearly stymied us altogether, when I had difficulty getting traction over an formation of rock. Persevering, however, I maneuvered my car to the planned trail/campground junction. Then, leaving Wrong-way's car there and on our way out in my car, Wrong-way strategically re-positioned a few rocks, which helped reduce the severity of the said obstacle, and thus, potential damage to my vehicle.


We returned to the Old Sierra City Hotel for another night's stay.


10.27.25, Monday, Day 7 - The rain moved on, and the sky was cloudless, though the roads remained wet and a thin layer of snow covered the ground in scattered patches. In my car, we drove to a jeep road/trail junction (~mm 1208), which Wrong-way referred to as "Packer Lake", though that name didn't appear on the Halfmile PCT notes.


I wrapped my soar, left knee with a stretchy bandage, and we started our hike SOBO about 9:25AM in a temperature of 37 degrees F. An intermittent light breeze kept us cool. Small amounts of snow lay spread across the terrain and on the trail, clearly recording evidence of bear presence, as our day's hike segment ranged above seven-thousand feet.


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Evidence of bears in the vicinity.


When we completed our day's hike in Sierra City, Wrong-way and I opted to stay at the Old Sierra City Hotel ... again!


Are we turning into wimps? I wondered. Prim8 liked the idea, however. I concluded that the stretchy bandage worked to reduce my left knee pain, and that hiking uphill might better suit my body.


10.28.25, Tuesday, Day 8 - Up at 6AM, we drove to mm 1208 (Packer Lake), then started our SOBO hike toward Sierra City (mm 1196.6) at 7:10AM in the 33-degree temperature. Initially, needle ice on the trail crunched under our feet, though disappeared as the sun warmed the air.


The trail gained elevation, as we circumnavigated the Sierra Buttes, then crossed the rock breakdown below the buttes.


Worried about tripping, resulting in a face plant, Prim8 thoroughly disliked this section ... and I agreed.


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Segment of PCT which

I named "the slag heap".


"That was a real slag heap," I commented to Wrong-way afterwards.


Once at Wrong-way's RAV4 near Sierra City, we attempted to reposition it to the South Fork Feather River/trail junction (mm 1236.5). However, over-grown brush created a ever-narrowing corridor along the unmaintained road, before a fallen tree blocked our path altogether.


"Close, but no cigar," I said to Wrong-way.


He backed his car through the embracing brush about one-hundred feet before reaching a suitable spot where he could turn around.


At dusk, we car-camped at a road/trail junction (mm 1236.5).


10.29.25, Wednesday, Day 9 - We left Wrong-way's vehicle at 7:40AM, hiking NOBO under clear sky. Despite the cool temperature in the shade, I sweat profusely. We encountered fallen trees, necessitating a clamber over or an off-trail diversion around.


Prim8 whined about my tired, aching feet. I commiserated.


We crossed the steel bridge over the Middle Fork Feather River (mm1250.9).


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Prim8 pauses for a better look.


Continuing onward, we passed what I considered a wizened tree.


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Fungus on a burned pine.

Wizened? Judge for yourself.


At our day's hike of 16.2 miles, we arrived at a trail campsite (mm 1252.7).


10.30.25, Thursday, Day 10 - I'd had a long, miserable night as my legs ached. However, I forced myself up for a 7:20AM start, despite Prim8's protests.


We snacked on cold food, and soldiered on, pausing at Big Bear Creek footbridge crossing to replenish our water supply. When we looked closely, we identified the culprits gathered on the sign.


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Lady bugs gathered on the

sign and surrounding debris.


We encountered numerous fallen trees blocking the trail, which slowed our progress, though we completed our day's 12.5-mile segment to an unpaved road junction (mm 1252.7) at 3:45PM.


We attempted to reach mm 1221 in Wrong-way's vehicle via a different route than previously, though were thwarted. We then drove to my car at Bucks Summit, changed plan, again, then drove both vehicles to Three Lakes Campground, 18.8 miles away.


Observing the CLOSED FOR THE SEASON sign and locked gate blocking the campground road, Wrong-way said, "I'm out of ideas. Got any suggestions?"


Stunned, I didn't know what to say, but before I could, he added, "We could drive back to Quincy and get a hotel room."


Exacerbated, I yelled, "F@*%!", realizing that our plan was stymied. Then I added, "Let's find a flat spot here somewhere. No one else will be coming here tonight."


And so, we found a suitable spot to set up Wrong-way's tent, and I told myself that tomorrow would bring a fresh perspective.


10.31.25, Friday, Day 11 - Frost covered everything when we arose. We packed up, drove both cars to Bucks Summit, where I dropped mine. Then, we drove toward Three Lakes/PCT junction (mm 1280.1) in Wrong-way's car. The "four-wheel drive" road to our trailhead connection grew too rough for Wrong-way's vehicle, per his assessment, however, so we parked about one mile short of the Three Lakes trailhead, adding that to our day's NOBO hiking distance (about two miles total). We departed his RAV4 at 10:27AM and reached the PCT junction (mm 1280.1) at 1:30PM. With a temperature of around 47 degrees, and few wispy clouds high above, we remained relatively cool, though my sweat was profuse, as we passed through another section of burned pine forest, which provided little shade.


5PM, we reached my car at Bucks Summit road (mm1269.1).


As I drove us to Belden Town in preparation for our last segment hike of this trip, I told Wrong-way, "I'm bummed about not doing the segment from Feather River to 1221." Prim8 was happy to forego hiking that segment, though.


"I am, too," Wrong-way said.


Wrong-way and I opted for another hotel-stay, this time at the Belden Town Resort & Lodge.


Prim8 was quite content about this, too ... and frankly, so was I! We both desired a break from the aches and pains of knees, calves and feet, which seemed relentless, though varied from day to day.


That evening, Wrong-way and I occupied stools at the resort's bar for drinks and dinner, and in addition, we purchased breakfast burritos for the following morning.


11.1.25, Saturday, Day 12 - Up before sunrise (5:30AM), we consumed our burritos, left the room, and began our hike at the light of dawn.


From Belden Town/PCT junction (mm 1288.0), we faced a SOBO 7.9-mile hike with an elevation differential of 4,013 feet (lowest to highest points) to Three Lakes Summit Trail junction (mm 1280.1). (This segment from mm1267.8 to mm1272.3 gained 3,210 feet!) Though, I knew the "uphill" direction would be fatiguing, I figured that would be more tolerable than the stress upon my knees (resulting in pain) of hiking downhill.


We attained the highpoint along the tail at 11:55AM, awe inspired by the views of the surrounding, rugged terrain.


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Feather River canyon near Belden.

(Note: Taken from our day's

hike highpoint.)


We reached the PCT/Three Lakes Trail junction (mm 1280.1) at 12:30PM, officially ending our PCT hiking. However, another 2 miles to Wrong-way's car faced us, which seemed interminable.


Pressed to return home by Monday, Nov 2, Wrong-way mentioned returning at a later date to hike the segment between mm 1221 (near A Tree spring) and the South Fork Feather River junction (mm 1236.5), which he considered an overnight hike.


I admit that 15.5-mile segment (with an elevation loss of 4,200 feet, with a lowpoint near Duck Soup Pond, then a gain of the same elevation to finish, regardless which direction hiked) would be daunting. And, presently, I didn't have the oomph for that.


Once we arrived at my car in Belden Town, Wrong-way and I resorted our respective gear. I removed my Hoka hiking boots. Wrong-way and I bide farewell before starting our respective drives home.


Our final tally: We hiked the PCT, some NOBO and some SOBO, from mm 1196.6 to mm 1221 and mm 1236.5 to mm 1332.3 for a total of 120.2 miles. And we'll return at some point to complete the segment between mm 1221 and mm 1236.5 (15.5 miles).


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Prim8 removes his Hoka hiking

boots. (For the last time?)


I opted to head home straightaway and arrived about midnight, relieved that my body could recuperate.


After examining my Hoka's at home, I decided to retire them. I calculated that they'd carried me 353.5 miles on the PCT. I'll probably purchase a pair of their clones, later.


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My trusty Hoka hiking boots.



Walk in beauty.


 
 

Bottom line: Getting back to your roots can be a spiritual experience!


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Sunset from Hwange

National Park, Zimbabwe.


Janet and I recently joined a Smithsonian Journey to South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, places we'd never been. Though a short trip in duration, our itinerary kept us busy as beavers, and we were filled with great memories of encounters with a wide spectrum of wild animals ... up close, that is. In addition, we were treated to three lectures by Dr. Robert Schrire about South Africa's apartheid past, it's current political environment and potential future. And, it should go without saying, we took necessary precautions against illnesses, for example by dosing ourselves with a generic version of Malarone to ward off malaria.


Thursday, Oct 2 (Cape Town, South Africa) – We spent a "free day" before our tour activities began in earnest by touring several nearby wineries.


Friday, Oct 3 (Cape Town) – After an orientation meeting, we toured the peninsula south of South Africa's "mother city".


1) Cape Town was originally establish in 1652 as a "rest and resupply stop" by the Dutch for ships rounding Africa's southern cape.


2) The Chinese were visiting and charting that shorelines as early as 1421!


3) Along our drive, we learned that one of the local wines is named "Splattered Toad", originating from toad road kill, a result of migrating creatures crossing roads during egg-laying season.


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The tip of the Cape of Good Hope.


4) Originally named Cape of Storms by Bartolomeu Dias in 1488, the cape was renamed by King John II of Portugal in order to encourage the poor wretches rounding Africa on the ships.


5) Ironically, the Cape of Good Hope is not the most southern tip of Africa. Cape Agulhas, east and 34 miles farther south, owns that distinction, and many ships mistook the Bay of False Hope as their route of passage to Europe.


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False Bay (distant left) and Cape

of Good Hope (below the right peaklet).


6) South Africa has eleven official languages, respecting the various tribes and subsequent immigrants, such as the Dutch descendant Afrikaners, and the English. Remember the Boer War between England and the Dutch settlers? (Though apparently, there were two!)


Headed back to Cape Town via the western side of False Bay, we stopped at Boulders Beach to view a colony of African Penguins.


One of the many penguins at the

colony approaches viewers without

concern. (BTW, that's sand, not snow!)


Saturday, Oct 4 (Cape Town) – We headed to Robben Island via ferry from Cape Town Harbor.


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Cape Town Harbor

and Table Mountain.


We toured Robben Island, used as a prison location and leper colony off and on from1683. A former political prisoner provided us a guided tour of the facility, including Nelson Mandela's cell.


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Nelson Mandela's cell.


After returning to Cape Town, clouds obscured Table Mountain, so we drove to Signal Hill, adjacent and lower, though clouds hampered panoramic views from there, as well.


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A portion of Cape Town from the

flank of Signal Hill. (Our hotel,

pink, is roughly centered.)


Sunday, Oct 5 through Tuesday, Oct 7 (Kapama Private Game Reserve) – We flew to tiny Hoedspruit airport near Kapama Private Game Preserve. And, while staying at the lodge, we were treated two "Game Drives" daily, several hours each morning and each evening. And, we started living an African wild-game National Geographic documentary, rather than watching one on TV!


Riding in specially adapted jeeps during our six Game Drives, we witnessed a multitude of animals.


7) We were warned to remain seated (as well, by no means leave the vehicle), and if we didn't yell or make wild gestures, the animals would consider us as part of the jeep ... and, that the animals, having never been threatened or harmed in association to the jeeps, would not react with alarm or fear. And, so it was!


A stately male Cape Buffalo.


A leopard!


Family herds commingle at a waterhole.


A male lion heads for a snack.


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Same lion snacks on a giraffe.


Hippos in their element.


8) Except to eat, hippos do almost everything in the water, where they keep cool, and protected from predators and the sun's harsh UV-rays.


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Warthogs, eating what?


I couldn't determine what they were so interested in!


Several giraffes, in no hurry.


11) Giraffes browse on the straight thorns of Acacia trees, which are modified leaves. (We were warned not to feed a giraffe as the tongue could rip the skin from your hand!)


12) Giraffes have the highest blood pressure of land animals ... 220/180 mmHg when standing, but can rise to 330/200 mmHg when drinking water. Gotta move that blood up and down a long neck!


Our guide drove us to a hyena den. (All the guides knew where that hyena den was located, and it's not like the hyenas move everyday!) And, with luck, we observed an adult pair with two young during siesta.


Hyenas, unfazed by our presence.


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A Red Hornbill.


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Vervet Monkey with baby perches

on the roof of our resort lodge.


We saw no African wild dogs, though they do roam into the preserve as they have an expansive range. As well, they are the rarest (most endangered) of the land animals there.


13) Though not the fastest of land animals, reaching a speed of 70 kph (43.5 mph), wild dogs have considerable endurance and tire their prey prior to attack, figuratively running them into the ground.


Though we didn't see the termites, their mounds are indeed impressive.


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Active colony termite mound.


14) Termite queens can live up to 50 (fifty) years!


Wednesday, Oct 8 (Johannesburg) – After flying to Johannesburg, we drove to an impoverished township Kliptown, located in Soweto (short for South Western Townships). On the way to Kliptown, we stopped for lunch, where I enjoyed a locally brewed beer.


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Houses in Kliptown (Soweto).


Then, we were driven to our hotel in Johannesburg for an overnight stay.


Thursday, Oct 9 (Pretoria) – After our overnight in Johannesburg, we were driven by bus to the Rovos Rail Station in Pretoria.


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Panorama of the Rovos Rail "Capital

Park Station" (Maintenance Yard far left).


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Rohan Vos, owner of Rovos Rail, gives

us a tour of the Maintenance Yard.


He explained that he purchases dilapidated train cars and refurbishes them in the style of former luxury-travel glory-days. Following our guided tour, we had lunch at the station. Originally, we were to board the Rovos Rail train there. However, that plan got "derailed" when a train mishap along the line blocked the track. So, we boarded buses, and were driven to Louis Trichardt, some 234 miles "up the line" in order to by-pass the blocked rail section.


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Janet and I ready to board

the train in Louis Trichardt.


Our original compartment on the train, more of a cubicle, would've likely resulted in "murder on the Rovos Express", as Janet and I later joked to others ... and, as luck had it, we upgraded to a larger compartment.


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Janet in our compartment upgrade.


We settled in for our three-day train ride, rocking and rolling, as well as jerking forward and backward without prior notice, when the train stopped and started. Such are the joys of train travel in some parts of the world! Regardless, we soaked in the train's Victorian/Edwardian ambience of luxury as best we could.


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The more regal of the two dining cars.


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Janet poses in the

Observation Car (aka bar).


Friday, Oct 10 (Rovos Rail) – The train rumbled along as we crossed the border into Zimbabwe, near Beitbridge,


15) then traveled one of the longest straight stretches of track in the world, 114 km (71 miles).


Saturday, Oct 11 (Rovos Rail) – Our train stopped at Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and we enjoyed another Game Drive, observing more animals.


An infant baboon tentatively

explores the world.


Grazing Wildebeest.


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Jackal. On the hunt?


Two Zebra leave the waterhole.


After our Game Drive, we re-boarded the train for Victoria Falls ... and, sometime in the night, I developed a case of "Montezuma's revenge"!


Sunday, Oct 12 (Victoria Falls) – We disembarked the train at Victoria Falls Station, and checked into our hotel. I informed our tour guide, Tina, of my malady. She suggested the cause was a side-effect of my antimalarial medication, and gave me several carbon pills to take, which I did. (Janet had similar symptoms, though I'll not elaborate further!)


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The Rovos train awaits it's next

passengers at Victoria Falls

Station across from our hotel.


Though feeling weak from loss of body fluids and sleep, I soldiered onward as we took a walking tour of nearby Victoria Falls, which provided us gorgeous views.


15) The falls border Zambia and Zimbabwe,


16) and are just over a mile wide when the Zambezi River flows in abundance.


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The falls from the Zimbabwe

side at the end the drier season.


Monday, Oct 13 (Chobe National Park, Botswana) – Feeling much better, I'd once again prevailed over Montezuma. By bus, we were driven to the border check point, then walked through "no-man's land" into Botswana. In Chobe National Park, we climbed into a jeep for another Game Drive, then later boarded a boat for a ride on the Chobe River to see the wildlife from a different perspective.


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A "journey" of giraffes

cross a Game Drive road.


17) Our game driver told us when stationary, they're referred to as a "tower"!


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The Chobe River from

our Game Drive jeep.


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A "committee, venue, or volt"

of vultures. (Take your pick!)


I prefer committee. Maybe, it's my suspicious nature, but I think they were conspiring!


18) If those vultures were eating, they'd be called a "kettle"! (Who thought that up?)


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A male African Sable (antelope).


I always thought sables were smaller furry things! Aside from that, we saw animals I'd not previously heard of, such as Kudu, Tsessebe, Puli and Red Lechwe (all ungulates), not to mention the numerous winged critters.


Tsessebe headed away from the river.


19) We were informed that Tsessebe are among the fastest land animals, reaching speeds up to 56 mph, as opposed to cheetahs at 70 mph.


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Guinea Fowl (aka Chobe Chicken).


Our game driver told us Chobe Chickens are tougher and not as tasty as our more common American tamed fowl of that name. (I took his word for it!)


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A male Kudu checks us out.

(Impalas graze behind him.)


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An Openbill Stork (African

variety) looks for a meal.


Chobe National Park proved to be a birder's paradise. I couldn't keep up with all the names of the birds we saw, much less snap photos of them.


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An elephant snorkels across the Chobe

River in search of greener pastures.


We spotted two hippos grazing in the morning, which they sometimes do in order to beat the other grazers to the best stuff. Competition, you know!


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Two grazers, unconcerned

about our presence, munch away.


20) Hippos graze on short grass,


21) can travel up to 6 (six) miles per outing,


22) and, with tusks instead of smaller teeth, they use their specially adapted lower lip to graze.


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A mother crocodile guards

her egg nest on a small island

created by the Chobe River.


Soon after I captured this photo, another boat approached her to within several feet, and she didn't flinch! Our boat guide said she wouldn't move unless her eggs were threatened.


After our day's excursions, we were treated to local entertainment during dinner at our hotel.


Our evening's dinner entertainment

at Victoria Falls Hotel.


Tuesday, Oct 14 (Homeward bound) – Our African safaris come to a close, we flew to Johannesburg, then home via Dubai, arriving early evening Wednesday our local time.


I thoroughly enjoyed our safari adventures in Africa, found them informative, enlightening and enriching. I'd recommend travel there to anyone, particularly near the end of the dry season. (Hint: fewer mosquitoes and less tree leaves to obstruct spotting animals.)

May you enjoy your adventures and walk in beauty.


 
 

Bottom line: Build great memories; expand yourself to fit our glorious world; connect to others (animals included); gain greater appreciation for famous adventurers of our past.


Sea Turtle feeding in shallow water of Hilo, Hawaii.
Sea Turtle feeding in shallow water of Hilo, Hawaii.

Janet, my wife, and I recently returned from a 32-day ocean cruise from Los Angeles to parts of the South Pacific.


1) Our cruise stopped first at Hilo on Hawaii (the island). We enjoyed our one day on terra firma after five sea-days, despite some early morning light rain.


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Looking across Hilo, Hawaii towards

Mauna Kea's snow-cap and telescopes.


2) Hilo is reputed to be one of the rainiest cities in the US, if not the most, averaging 15 feet of rainfall per year. Whereas, the leeward Kona Coast, on the other side of the island, receives 15 inches per year.


3) With all that rain, and the rocky lava landscape of Hilo, waterfalls are abundant. Rainbow Falls is one such example, though a rainbow isn't always visible.

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Here's Rainbow Falls?!


4) We visited the Pana'ewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens where I discovered some useful information in the men's bathroom (I guess, we men and boys need to know this!), which I share here for your edification, as well.


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5) Somewhere along the way I heard that Hawaii, the island, has three colors of sand beaches: black, white and green. Imagine a green beach! We didn't see it, however.


6) The following day, we arrived at Maui. During a bus tour, we learned that the pineapple and sugar cane industries of old were decimated by international competition. The islands now depend upon tourism. Of note: Lahaina is making a recovery, though slowly. Tourist traffic is not allowed in the historic downtown, though we did see portions of "greater" Lahaina.

Sunshine on Kahulua as we depart Maui.
Sunshine on Kahulua as we depart Maui.

7) On to Honolulu, Oahu, we toured the USS Arizona Memorial, where 1,777 crewmen died. A second battleship memorial, USS Utah, lies on the opposite of Ford Island, where 64 crew died. The Missouri faces the memorial to symbolize standing guard over the Arizona, as well as creating bookends of our war with Japan (beginning and end), since the Japanese surrender was signed on Missouri's deck.


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USS Arizona Memorial (right); USS

Missouri (left) faces the Arizona.


8) The following day, we arrived in Kauai, and visited the Kilohaha Plantation. Established in 1986, it now is an elegant tourist destination with a historic railroad, a collection of local animals, restaurant and performance pavilion.


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Hawaiian dance performance

at Kilohana Plantation, Kauai.


We "sailed" southward toward French Polynesia later that day, and over the following six sea-days we crossed the equator.


9) The "shellback" of the ship's crew (those previously having crossing the equator) judged the "polliwogs" (those crossing the first time) during a King Neptune Ceremony. All, as you might expect were told, "Bow to, or kiss, the fish. Then, jump in the pool."


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The Cruise Director (far side) officiates as the

Assistant Cruise Director, polliwog, kisses the

fish before heading into the pool.


Janet and I dove into a variety of activities on board during our sea days, wanting to make the most of our time aboard, which passed quickly. We listened to numerous lectures of interest, joined in Team Trivia Quizzes and Baggo competitions, and attended the evening musical performances, aside from binging on food and drink, of course.


From the various lectures, we learned some interesting tidbits.


10) The Tahitian alphabet contains thirteen letters (five vowels and eight consonants), though uses glottal stops and macrons for long vowels.


11) The vanilla plant in Tahiti requires pollination by hand, since its pollinator bee no longer lives there. That pollinator still lives in Mexico, however, but I doubt the bees made a conscious choice in that matter!


12) Polynesia contains a diverse collection of more than 1,000 islands within an imaginary triangle bounded on the southwest by New Zealand, on the north by Hawaii, and the southeast by Easter Island. French Polynesia lies within triangle.


13) More than 800 species of fish live around the French Polynesian Islands.


14) Parrot fish do not have a fixed gender.


15) The Tahitian black oyster produces the famous black pearl after being seeded with a small Mississippi River stone.


Unfortunately for us, we arrived at Bora Bora simultaneously with a storm. Needless to say, that threw a bucket of water on the proceedings!


A less-than-ideal view of Bora Bora!
A less-than-ideal view of Bora Bora!

Our planned Bora Bora shore excursion cancelled, Janet and I rode to shore on a ship shuttle, though she returned to the ship immediately, when learning additional shuttle service had been suspended.

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Local musicians perform at the welcoming

point/shuttle dock, while Janet poses

moments before abandoning ship, err, land?

I, however, being more adventurous, ambled along the main street over the next hour-and-a-half as the rain slackened, chatted with several shop owners, mostly selling pearl jewelry, perused the local grocery, paused at the protestant church to listen to the parishioners sing a Polynesian hymn. (The church provided the lyrics on an elevated screen!)


Finished with my foreshortened investigation of the local culture, I meandered back to the shuttle landing and listened to the live local music, until another shuttle arrived. (I knew the ship's crew wouldn't abandon those of us still ashore!)


That evening, we proceeded to Papeete, Tahiti, by-passing Moorea, which would also require shuttle service ... in the storm.


16) The first of our three days in Papeete, Janet and I hired a tour around Tahiti Nui, which is the larger of two conjoined land masses comprising Tahiti. Locals call the smaller, Tahiti Iti.

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Janet poses on Matavia's black sand beach.

Note her improved disposition since Bora Bora!


17) Captain J. Cook made his 1769 observations of Venus's transit of the sun just yards from the beach.

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Marker to Cook's Venus transit observations.


Further along, we stopped at Fa'aruma'i Valley, where three watersheds each have a falls.

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We, intrepid travelers, pose at one such falls.

Here's a second falls.
Here's a second falls.

We took a local walking tour of parts of Papeete during our second day in port.

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Pepeete Town Hall.


Back on the ship that evening, Janet and I attended a local Polynesian dance group performance.

"O Tahiti E" performs.

I loved their costumes!

A solo performance. I admired

her commitment to the tattoo!


With an additional, unplanned day in Papeete, Janet and I took a ferry to Moorea, then hired a tour guide to sightsee.


Belvedere Lookout, 820 feet elevation, provides a spectacular view of Cook's Bay (right) and Opunahu Bay (left) with the sacred Mont Rotui between.


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Janet and I pose at Belvedere Lookout.


We crossed into the mountainous interior—all "newer" volcanic islands have that distinction—through shallow, following streams, lush rainforest, cultivated fields, past sacred sites to Opunohu Bay.


Back at beach front in Opunoha Bay, Fare Tutava (restaurant) served up two great smoothies. Afterward, we ate the flower blossom garnishes!

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Loving my fruit smoothie

with flower blossom garnish!


The restaurant also had a number of colorful, Tahitian themed women's bathing wraps for sale.

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Women's bathing wrap with manta ray design.


Then, we drove the narrow, winding concrete "road" to Magic Mountain Overlook. (No, not related to the Magic Mountain in southern California!)


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A pano of Opunohu Bay from

Magic Mountain Overlook. Note

the azure colors of the lagoon.

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Viking Neptune docked in Papeete, Tahiti.


That evening we sailed for Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands, and after two sea-days, we anchored in Taioha'e Bay.


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A pano of Taioha'e Bay, Nuku Hiva.

(No, our ship hadn't gotten bent!)


Janet and I arranged for a tour of the island. We stopped at numerous locations, including scenic overlooks and sacred ruins.


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Our local guide, Ma'u, with our ship

anchored in the harbor. Note her leg tattoo.


18) We drove to Taipivai Bay, and visited the village where Herman Melville was a "guest-captive," according to his fictionalized account in Typee. (Quite inspirational for me, the visit and the book!)

A pano of Taipivai Bay.
A pano of Taipivai Bay.
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Plaque commemorating

Melville's "visit" and writings.


After Janet and I bid Ma'u goodbye, and before we returned to our ship, we hiked a short distance to the "Tiki Tuhiva" sculpture overlooking the village and bay.

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The "Tiki Tuhiva" sculpture.


That evening, we sailed away from Nuku Hiva, headed for San Diego.

Nuku Hiva during sunset.
Nuku Hiva during sunset.

Seven sea-days later, we arrived in San Diego Harbor, renowned for US Naval presence.


19) We toured Balboa Park, which contains numerous beautiful buildings, including eighteen museums, all within easy walking distance.

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This elegant building serves as the park's

Visitor Center and the Prado Restaurant.


20) Returned to our ship, I walked a short distance to, and toured, the USS Midway, the last diesel powered US aircraft carrier.


21) Here's the "Unconditional Surrender Statue," aka "Kissing Statue." Incorrectly, the sailor reputedly kissed a nurse, though she was a dental hygienist in actuality!

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The oversized statue with USS

Midway (background).


That evening, we sailed away to Los Angeles, where Janet and I disembarked the Neptune the following morning.


We'd sailed 8,885 nautical miles (10,225 statue miles) during our trip, and experienced twenty-one days at sea. As a result, I gained a deeper appreciation, if only a hint, of by-gone sailing in the South Pacific, and the experiences of the likes of James Cook, Herman Melville and Paul Gauguin, to name only a few. Plus, I took advantage of a loaner copy of Melville's Typee, which I thoroughly enjoyed, though his complex sentence structures make it a difficult read.


Of course, wouldn't you know, I developed severe cold symptoms upon our return home, though Janet's course of infection preceded mine by a few days.


I thoroughly encourage you to travel, travel, travel! Consider spending your money and time traveling and building memories, rather than on material goods. I yearn to return to the South Pacific even as I complete writing this.


Walk in beauty.

(PS - your feedback is welcomed.)


 
 

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