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You don’t have to save me, you

just have to hold my hand

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As a freelance writer of creative nonfiction, I write to inspire hope for those struggling to heal from trauma. Thanks for reading my posts. If you'd like to read my archived blog posts, use this link.

Bottom line: You need to request the caviar (of life)!


Janet and I recently joined the Seabourn Sojourn on a 22-day cruise from Miami to Long Beach via the Panama Canal.


Tuesday, Nov 25 - Our first priority after boarding was lunch ... and since we knew we could order caviar ... we did! (And, since we both love seafood, we promised ourselves to order it on a regular basis.)

Janet enjoys her first

serving of caviar on-board.


Wednesday, Nov 26 (At sea) - As we normally had done on previous cruises, we attended the lectures/presentations on-board, having found most to be entertaining and informative.


Our first day, Dr. Ben Taggie presented on King Sugar.


1) Columbus introduced sugar cane to the New World on his second voyage in 1493.


2) The year 1651 CE marked the first mention of rum, at that time made from sugar cane molasses (now made with sugar beets).


3) Four million slaves were imported to the Caribbean between 1700-1850 CE to work in the cane fields (hot, hard labor).


Dr. Sofia Laurein presented The "Golden Age" of Caribbean Piracy: Skull and Crossbones on the Horizon (1650-1720).


4) Pirates wore earrings as commemoration for their first crossing of the equator.


5) Their earrings, usually gold, served as pre-need currency for a "proper" burial.


6) The first real democracy occurred on pirate ships in the New World, as all the pirates shared in the bootie and could leave of their own free will.


7) Sir Francis Drake created the Mojito, the first cocktail, to treat scurvy. (Got my attention!)


Thursday, Nov 27 (At sea) - Janet and I observed Thanksgiving by consuming our share of caviar!


Dr. Sofia Laurein presented A Cultural History of Coffee: How We Fell in Love with Caffeine.


8) Circa 6th century CE , coffee was consumed like "energy bars" in Ethiopia (unsweetened, of course).


9) Kiva Han, the first known coffee house still in operation, started in 1475 (during the Ottoman Empire) in Constantinople.


10) Pope Clement VIII baptized coffee as a Christian drink around 1600. (Prior to that it had been considered satanic.)


11) Coffee became the preferred drink in the US colonies following the Boston Tea Party of 1773.


12) The custom of tipping servers was born in English coffee houses.


13) Coffee trees DO NOT produce beans. Remember that the next time you're grinding your coffee seeds! (BTW, the same goes for cocoa, a recommended ingredient of chocolate.)


"Jack" Garcia, former FBI agent, presented about his experiences of undercover work.


14) Apparently, there's controversy in Boston (or thereabouts) as to whether spaghetti gets covered with a sauce or gravy. And, there I was, thinking my whole life that spaghetti always got covered with sauce!


Dr. Taggie presented The Fascinating Story of the Discovery and History on the Dominican Republic.


15) The ancient Greeks were calculating the circumference of the earth several hundred years BCE. I fact checked that. Eratosthenes (c. 276–194 BCE) is credited with an estimation of 25,000 miles. (Current measurements are 24,901 miles at the equator, and 24,860 miles through the poles, as earth is NOT a perfect sphere.)


16) Santo Domingo, founded 1496, became the first European settlement in North America.


17) The Dominican Republic almost became a US state in 1870 during Grant's presidency.


Friday, Nov 28 (Isla Catalina, Dominican Republic) - The Sojourn anchored off the island, then tendered passengers in for some "Caviar in the Surf and Beach BBQ." Janet and I had a relaxing lounge, accompanied by caviar and followed by lobster! Yum!


The ship sits anchored

as Janet and I lounge.


Saturday, Nov 29 (At sea) - Moderate rough seas proved nothing more than a test of sea legs ... at least for me. Janet donned her wrist bands, which have something to do with acupressure.


We attended the "at sea" presentation by Dr. Ben Taggie entitled The ABC Islands, a Jewel of the Amazing Dutch Empire in the 17th Century. (For clarification: Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao.)


18) The "Golden Age" of the Dutch empire occurred in the 17th century CE, as they possessed the largest navy.


19) The Dutch captured the ABC islands around 1636. In part, it seems, because the Spanish considered the islands "useless," as they weren't a source of gold/silver.


20) The East India Trading Company became the first "trade stock exchange company."


Sunday, Nov 30 (Willemstad, Curaçao) - Janet strolled along the waterfront of the Otrobanda and Punda quarters of Willemstad, using the ferry to cross St. Anna Bay when the Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge was open (to allow a ship to pass).


The Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge

swings closed to accommodate

foot traffic.


We recrossed the bay via the closed foot bridge.


Punda Quarter, Willemstad, waterfront.

(Note the Dutch style architecture.)


I spotted this gorgeous mural in Otrobanda.


The "Djosa" mural.

(Francis Sling, 2024)


Monday, Dec 1 (At sea) - "Jack" Garcia lectured about Chasing Down Drug Dealers. (Interesting ... and dangerous.)


Dr. Ben Taggie presented The Spanish-American War and It's Important Contribution to the Successful Building of the Panama Canal.


21) As a result of the heavy casualties from yellow fever during the Spanish-American War, a cure was sought and found. As deaths from diseases, such as yellow fever, had stymied the first attempt to build the Panama Canal by the French, the subsequent cure assisted a second, and successful, attempt by the Americans.


Dr. Sofia Laurein provided us An Entertaining History of Your Favorite Food.


22) Extinguish the myth  (British propaganda) that Napolean was short in stature. To wit, Napolean was three-quarters of an inch taller than the average man of his day. (Some food items are named after him. However, since those food items aren't among my favorite, I found the above fact more interesting.)


23) James Salisbury, physician during the American Civil War, created Salisbury steak, since he thought veggies produced poisonous substances, which caused numerous, severe health conditions, including mental illness.


24) Round blocks of hard cheese were used as cannonballs in a naval battle!


25) French fries originated in French speaking BELGIUM.


Tuesday, Dec 2 (Santa Marta, Columbia) - Janet and I checked out sites of the town, including the "Tayrona Gold Museum" (free entry).


Tairona society (Pre-Columbian) created impressive, intricate gold-work ornamentation, though I was amused by one clay shamanic object. It's purpose was to frighten people. I'm doubtful it has that effect on you, though perhaps it would on young children.


Tairona society shamanic figurine.


Wednesday, Dec 3 (At sea, Atlantic Ocean) - Dr. Sofia Lauren provided An Entertaining History of Money. We learned about various early items/substances used as currency, such as salt and leather.


26) The term "cash cow" originates from gifting a milk-producing cow at someone's birth, as the on-going flow of milk could be sold.


Melissa Fung presented Living with Trauma: A PTSD Journey. She told us about her ordeal as a journalist taken hostage in Afghanistan, and held in a dark, cramped space for about 30 days. She placed emphasis on the on-going work and positive attitude of personal growth. (I'll second that!)


Thursday, Dec 4 (Panama Canal) - Our ship began the transit of the Panama Canal system when we entered Gatun Lake early morning. I'd barfed twice during the night (cause undetermined), so started my day late and in a slow, sluggish state. Janet and I went topside at 2:30 PM to watch the progress of our ship's canal transit, and I spotted a huge ship transiting the newer canal adjacent to us.


The "Magellan." Carrying fuel? LPG?


Friday, Dec 5 (At sea, Pacific Ocean) - Dr. Sofia Laurein continued her talks with The History and Mystery of the Mayan Civilization.


27) About ten million people comprised the Mayan civilization.


28) They worshiped the "Corn God," valued beauty, and so elongated their skulls to replicate the shape of an ear of corn. They considered crossed eyes, pointed teeth (filed theirs), and facial scarring (scarification) as signs of beauty.


Sans anesthesia and antibiotics, I felt glad that I wasn't born into their culture!


29) Mayan language is still prevalent in parts of Mexico today.


30) Their calendar, with a 365.42-day year, was more accurate than our Gregorian calendar, which requires an additional leap-day every four years. And, they created theirs 700 years earlier! (Why are we using the Gregorian version?)


31) Their calendar included a "long count," which ended 2021 CE. (That date WAS NOT a prophecy of doom or meant to signify the end of time, only a long-count reset, AND they weren't around to begin a new cycle!)


32) They produced rubber (for the balls used in their "soccer" games) and chocolate (unsweetened and for religious purposes only).


33) They did not use the wheel, though NOT because they were stupid. They simply didn't have a beast of burden. As a result, they built their temples, etc, with stones small enough to be carried by hand.


34) During a "Port Talk," we learned that a beach at Golfito has the 2nd longest left-handed waves in the world. (Go get 'em, surfers!)


Saturday, Dec 6 (Golfito, Costa Rica) - Janet and I walked about two miles in the warm, humid air before relenting and hiring a taxi to take us to the "duty free" shopping area. There, we observed locals busy purchasing electrical appliances and alcohol, primarily. To a lesser degree, they shopped for clothing and auto tires, which were offered side-by-side within the same store!


(One of those self-explanatory signs!)


Once Janet and I returned to the ship, we headed to the Observation Lounge for cocktails. There, we learned about a scheduled tour of the ship's bridge, and requested an impromptu inclusion. The staff coordinating the tour allowed us to join, and I joked, "It's like when you open a door and two flies come in."


I'm pointing the way

following a passenger mutiny?


Sunday, Dec 7 (Puntarenas, Costa Rica)(aka Puerto Caldera) - Other than wander through town on our way to the lighthouse, Janet and I didn't discover anything that overwhelmed us, so we re-boarded the ship, having gone on a 5 (five) mile walk, according to Janet's iPhone. (I suspected it was lying to us, though the distance did seem a far piece to the lighthouse in the warm sun and humid air.)


El Faro de Puntarenas

(Puntarenas Lighthouse).


Monday, Dec 8 (At sea) - "Dennis" Wille lectured on Quetzalcoatl and Quetzal: A Biocultural Journey Through Time.


35) Of the several species of Quetzals (birds), the Resplendent Quetzal is Guatemala's national bird. Having long, colorful tail feathers, the Resplendent was prized by the Mayans.


36) Birds are classified according to toe position (number of toes facing front vs number facing back.) Toe position determines how well and whether a bird can grasp a branch, for instance.


37) The "Oilbird" (Steatornis caripensis, AKA guácharo) is the only bird that uses ecolocation. (Of course, bats ecolocate, but they're mammals.)


Tuesday, Dec 9 (Puerto Quetzal, Guatemala) - As there is no town at the dock, Janet and I splurged, and joined an excursion to the Mayan ruins of Iximche, the Mayan capital 1470-1524 CE.


We enjoyed an enlightening tour of the ruins (where the royals/leaders lived), learned about the Mayan calendar (which I admit is complex and difficult to remember), their version of soccer, temple construction, and then we observed several spiritual rituals in progress.


Our guide explaining

the Mayan calendar.


A ceremonial alter for initiating

boys into manhood (foreground).

(Note: the stones are small enough

for one person to carry.)


A ritual at Iximche.


A shaman conducting a second ritual.


38) We learned that Iximche's "commoners" lived in Tecpán, the ruin's nearby town.


A busy street in Tecpán.

Mid-day rush?


39) In addition, we learned about "Chicken Buses," rebuilt used US school buses (given larger engines, and with reinforced suspension and roofs). They've gotten that name because locals carry live chickens in their laps when returning home from the market. I spotted a number of them, each uniquely, and colorfully, decorated. (The buses, not the chickens!


A "Chicken Bus."


Wednesday, Dec 10 (Puerto Chiapas, Mexico) - Since Janet and I had not booked a shore excursion here, we explored the small tourist facilities at the dock, and soon returned to the ship, awaiting caviar and cocktails served during our sail-away. I spotted a kettle of vultures, looking for a meal, too, no doubt.


A kettle of vultures.


Thursday, Dec 11 (Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico) - Janet and I walked about three miles, exploring the nearby tourist shops and a beach area.


(Another colorful

self-explanatory sign.)


After we'd sailed from port, I spotted one of a number of stunning sunsets that I saw during our cruise.


A Pacific Ocean sunset.


Friday, Dec 12 (At sea) - "Dennis" Wille lectured on Spirits and Seeds: The Natural History of Bats, Agave, and Chocolate.


40) Of the 6.4-thousand species of mammals, 1.4-thousand are bats, though only three bat species eat blood. (Why all the freak out?)


Dr. Sofia Laurein presented The Aztec Empire: The Spellbinding Story of a Lost Kingdom.


41) Originally nomadic, the Aztecs founded their first city in 1325 CE at Texcoco Lake, destined to become modern day Mexico City.


42) Perhaps, they created the first universal educational system, though the elite learned higher skills, such as reading and writing, while the lesser-class commoners learned "trade" skills, such as farming irrigation.


Saturday, Dec 13 (At sea) - Marisa Lino, former US Ambassador, talked about Life as a US Diplomat—Schmoozing and Ducking.


43) The first US diplomat was Ben Franklin, 1776-1785, when he worked to get France to support the colonies against the British.


44) She told us that Albania is the most pro-American country in the world. (I wouldn't have guessed!)


"Dennis" Wille shared about Wings Over the Ocean: Seabirds of the Equatorial North.


45) The term "seagull" is a misnomer, the correct name is Western Gull.


46) Arctic Terns migrate 20K miles to live in an "endless summer."


47) Some birds achieve long-term sustained flight with UBS, unihemispheric brain sleep, aka USWS. (Some reptiles and aquatic mammals also possess UBS capability.)


Sunday, Dec 14 (Cabo San Lucas, Mexico) - Janet and I joined an excursion to San Jose del Cabo, some 46 miles away. We wandered along several streets close to the main square.


(Do I need to say where?)


We happened upon this mermaid, which enticed us into the artist's shop's courtyard. He specializes in welded sculptures, made from various metal scrap, such as washers, bolts, sprockets, and chains. (See for yourself.)


Mermaid at the shop's

courtyard entrance.


Several more metal sculptures

(monkeys in a tree and

female human face).


BTW, you can purchase the human face sculpture for less than $25K! Returned to our ship, I got a good photo of Cabo's iconic arch.


Said iconic arch, El Arco.


After we left Cabo on our northward leg to Long Beach, I spied a pod of porpoises that had set a rendezvous course to reach us, and I watched as our ship slowly pulled away from them.


Porpoises at play in our ship's wake.


And around that same time, I witnessed another ocean sunset.


Yet another fantastic ocean sunset.

(Note: Image unaltered.)


Monday, Dec 15 (At sea) - Jill Dougherty presented Explaining Russia. She provided background information on the lead up to Putin's reign and his drive to reassert Russian power in the world, describing him as a chameleon.


Tuesday, Dec 16 (At sea) - Dr. Sofia Laurein lectured on The Mysteries of Most Enchanting and Intriguing Works of Art.


48) As per fashion of the 15th century, women were depicted as pregnant.


49) Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper is filled with "hidden" symbols, such as bread on the table represents musical notes from Mozart's "Requiem."


50) Peter Bruegel's (the Elder) painting The Dutch Proverbs contains references to 112 (one hundred twelve) proverbs.


Marisa Lino provided ten basic tips on International Negotiations: Lessons for Real Life. Among those e.g. know your bottom line, be prepared to walk away (if necessary) and negotiating isn't a zero sum game (not about one side "winning").


Alas, our cruise ended in Long Beach. My trip take-away? I've come to believe that every sunset at sea, alas anywhere, is worth witnessing, if for no other reason than to appreciate being alive. (It's a spiritual experience for me!) Oh ... and you need to request the caviar (of life)!


May you enjoy all your sunsets, and walk in beauty.


 
 
  • Writer: Connard Hogan
    Connard Hogan
  • Nov 8, 2025
  • 10 min read

Updated: Jan 8


Bottom line: The best laid plans often go astray.


Sunset near Quincy, CA.


Mark R. (once again using the moniker of Wrong-way) and I made a last minute alteration to our hike plan (the section from Horseshoe Meadow to Bishop Pass). Instead, we opted for a stretch of trail in lower elevation, and thus, with less chance of inclement weather, vis-à-vis snow. Wrong-way liked the section between Sierra City, CA (mm 1196.6) and Chester, CA (mm 1332.3).


Note: Though, we opted to hike northbound (NOBO) some days, and southbound (SOBO) some days, I provide the northbound mile-marker designations for consistency, since we're headed northward overall anyway.


And, as per our two-vehicle availability, we anticipated moving our cars as necessary to maximize our one-day hikes, decrease the number of overnights on the trail ... and thus carry less weight (tent, sleeping bags, water, warm weather clothing and food). In addition, we'd have the option to hike northbound or southbound, depending which direction we considered the most advantageous for each section between our positioned vehicles at road junctions (increasing or decreasing elevation, for example). What a plan! Thru-hikers can't do that! Prim8 was all in on the idea, of course.


10/20/25, Monday (Day 0) - Wrong-way and I rendezvoused in Chester, a drive of some 538 miles for me, for an overnight stay there prior to starting our segment hiking. My drive went smoothly and the fall colors of deciduous trees near Lassen National Park were stunning, which helped offset the depressing and seemingly endless burned, blackened pines.

10/21/25, Tuesday (Day 1) - Frost coated my car's windshield in Chester as Wrong-way and Prim8 anticipated beginning our first day's segment hike.


My car positioned at Highway 36/PCT junction (mm 1332.3), we then drove to Humboldt Summit parking area (mm 1312.8) in Wrong-way's car.


Starting our hike at 8:30AM under a cloudless sky and temperature of 36 degrees F, I anticipated feeling chilled as we headed NOBO (northbound), though soon warmed up as per usual from the exertion of hiking.


To my surprise, we came upon the PCT "Halfway Monument" (mm 1320.7). (Due to yearly reroutes, however, the actual halfway point is now estimated to be closer to mile 1325.1.) Though, Wrong-way and I had skipped a considerable section of the PCT from Horseshoe Meadow to here, we nevertheless commemorated our arrival. After all, we fully expected to hike every mile of the trail at some time, regardless.


Prim8 points NOBO from

the PCT Halfway Marker.


I spotted a sticker inside the registration box at the Halfway Monument, and pointed it out to Wrong-way. We both chuckled.


"I go through this every day," I joked to Wrong-way. Prim8 knew exactly what I meant.


Sticker on the registration box

at the PCT Halfway Monument.


Several miles on, we passed two men engaged in trail maintenance. One informed us that the Dixie Fire had consumed about 980,000 acres in 2021. Note: I've since researched that fire and learned it burned for two months, reached a final size of 963,309 acres (that's 1,505 square miles!) and was the second-largest single wildfire in California history at the time.


Wrong-way (Mark) pauses

on the trail. (Note: We were to

see many burned pine trees.)


A view of burned pine forest with

Mt. Lassen (background, near centered).


A better view of Mt.

Lassen from the trail.


Further evidence of a fire.


Evidence of forest regeneration.


We camped near Soldier Creek at mm 1325.4, some 12.6 miles from our start. Then, we munched on cold, dry food. No cooking on the trail for us! We avoided schlepping cooking gear, stove and fuel on the trail. Why carry the weight?


10/22/25, Wednesday (Day 2) - The temperature a bit warmer, and with no frost present at 8:11AM, we continued NOBO in light wind through the remnant of burned pine forest.


I noticed a familiar pain aside the heel of my left foot as we hiked. Sure enough, when I checked later, I discovered a blister.


Dang it, Prim8! I won't forget to grease my feet again.


Once at Highway 36 junction (mm 1332.3), we drove to Belden Town to drop my car, then headed to Humboldt Summit parking area in Wrong-way's RAV4.


10/23/25, Thursday (Day 3) - Under clear sky and in a light, but chilling breeze, we left our car camp at Humboldt Summit at 7:30AM, heading SOBO. Before we started, however, I'd applied a pad to my foot's blistered area, then smeared an ample amount of Vaseline to both feet. (And which I would continue to do daily.)


That should fix it, Prim8.


Low growing brush, from one to one-and-a-half feet high, crowded the trail for several long stretches.


No place to be wearing short pants, Prim8!


At ~mm 1300, a sign informed us of the transition boundary from the Cascade Mountain Range to the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Soon after, I concluded the trail condition had worsened when the rounded, smaller pumice stones disappeared, replaced by irregular, jagged ones of various composition that created a greater tripping hazard!


At 6PM, as nightfall approached, and unable to find a nearby designated trail campsite, we discovered a level area aside the trail, large enough for the footprint of Wrong-way's two-man tent (~mm 1296.6?).


Can you spot our

makeshift campsite?

(BTW, we left no discernible

traces of our presence.)


10/24/25, Friday (Day 4) - Breaking camp, we continued SOBO at 7:51AM. Prim8 complained constantly about knee pain as we hiked this 8.6-mile rocky stretch descending nearly 2,600 feet in elevation, though not at a steady grade. Slowed by the agony of painful knees (mine), we arrived at my car in Belden Town (mm 1288.0) at 1:30PM.


Wrong-way prepares to peruse the

"dubious luxuries" at the Belden

Town Resort Lodge.


After retrieving Mark's car, we discussed various options, revised our plan, then drove both vehicles to a hotel in Chester.


Blame it on age, or poor physical conditioning ... and though I had thoughts of becoming a wuss ... I put up no fuss when Wrong-way had suggested this option. I preferred to blame it on my painful knees! Prim8 wasn't complaining, that's for sure.


10/25/25, Saturday (Day 5) - During an intermittent light rain in Chester, we enjoyed a cooked breakfast at Cravings Restaurant. Sated for the moment, we prepositioned my car at Bucks Lake Road junction (mm 1269.1), then drove Wrong-way's vehicle to Big Creek Road junction (mm 1264.7).


Dressed for rain, our 4.6-mile trek to my car proceeded in relatively dry conditions, though the sky broke open just as we finished our hike.


Great timing, Prim8! "Just in time," I joked with Wrong-way.


We retrieved Mark's RAV4, and made a beeline for the Old Sierra City Hotel, where we secured a room.


Prim8 embraces the Old

Sierra City Hotel as

"Home, Sweet Home."


Restroom sign at Old Sierra

City Hotel, least anyone get

confused.


Wrong-way and I sauntered down the double-lane main street (the only street there that I could discern) to Sorracco's Saloon, less than a hundred yards distance. With a considerable selection of beer and liquor from which to choose, we sampled some of Ron's wares, as we chatted with him and other fellow imbibers.


My selection of a "Kentucky Tangerine Cream" beer hit the spot. Very tasty it was, and Prim8 loved it! That encouraged me to imbibe with a shot of Mary Dowling bourbon ... though I'm not a connoisseur by any means, I just like to experience different things. Wrong-way stuck with beer.


Returned to the Old Sierra City Hotel, we had dinner, then hunkered in for the night.


10/26/25, Sunday (Day 6) - Rain continued throughout the day. (Would've been a misery for us to hike). Anticipating the weather's improvement, we'd positioned Wrong-way's car at a campground (mm 1221) near "A Tree spring". (I kid you not about that name.) One rough patch on the road nearly stymied us altogether, when I had difficulty getting traction over an formation of rock. Persevering, however, I maneuvered my car to the planned trail/campground junction. Then, leaving Wrong-way's car there and on our way out in my car, Wrong-way strategically re-positioned a few rocks, which helped reduce the severity of the said obstacle, and thus, potential damage to my vehicle.


We returned to the Old Sierra City Hotel for another night's stay.


10/27/25, Monday (Day 7) - The rain moved on, and the sky was cloudless, though the roads remained wet and a thin layer of snow covered the ground in scattered patches. In my car, we drove to a jeep road/trail junction (~mm 1208), which Wrong-way referred to as "Packer Lake", though that name didn't appear on the Halfmile PCT notes.


I wrapped my soar, left knee with a stretchy bandage, and we started our hike SOBO about 9:25AM in a temperature of 37 degrees F. An intermittent light breeze kept us cool. Small amounts of snow lay spread across the terrain and on the trail, clearly recording evidence of bear presence, as our day's hike segment ranged above seven-thousand feet.


Evidence of bears in the vicinity.


When we completed our day's hike in Sierra City, Wrong-way and I opted to stay at the Old Sierra City Hotel ... again!


Are we turning into wimps? I wondered. Prim8 liked the idea, however. I concluded that the stretchy bandage worked to reduce my left knee pain, and that hiking uphill might better suit my body.


10/28/25, Tuesday (Day 8) - Up at 6AM, we drove to mm 1208 (Packer Lake), then started our SOBO hike toward Sierra City (mm 1196.6) at 7:10AM in the 33-degree temperature. Initially, needle ice on the trail crunched under our feet, though disappeared as the sun warmed the air.


The trail gained elevation, as we circumnavigated the Sierra Buttes, then crossed the rock breakdown below the buttes.


Worried about tripping, resulting in a face plant, Prim8 thoroughly disliked this section ... and I agreed.


Segment of PCT which

I named "the slag heap".


"That was a real slag heap," I commented to Wrong-way afterwards.


Once at Wrong-way's RAV4 near Sierra City, we attempted to reposition it to the South Fork Feather River/trail junction (mm 1236.5). However, over-grown brush created a ever-narrowing corridor along the unmaintained road, before a fallen tree blocked our path altogether.


"Close, but no cigar," I said to Wrong-way.


He backed his car through the embracing brush about one-hundred feet before reaching a suitable spot where he could turn around.


At dusk, we car-camped at a road/trail junction (mm 1236.5).


10/29/25, Wednesday (Day 9) - We left Wrong-way's vehicle at 7:40AM, hiking NOBO under clear sky. Despite the cool temperature in the shade, I sweat profusely. We encountered fallen trees, necessitating a clamber over or an off-trail diversion around.


Prim8 whined about my tired, aching feet. I commiserated.


We crossed the steel bridge over the Middle Fork Feather River (mm1250.9).


Prim8 pauses for a better look.


Continuing onward, we passed what I considered a wizened tree.


Fungus on a burned pine.

(Wizened? Judge for yourself.)


At our day's hike of 16.2 miles, we arrived at a trail campsite (mm 1252.7).


10/30/25, Thursday (Day 10) - I'd had a long, miserable night as my legs ached. However, I forced myself up for a 7:20AM start, despite Prim8's protests.


We snacked on cold food, and soldiered on, pausing at Big Bear Creek footbridge crossing to replenish our water supply. When we looked closely, we identified the culprits gathered on the sign.


Lady bugs gathered on the

sign and surrounding debris.


We encountered numerous fallen trees blocking the trail, which slowed our progress, though we completed our day's 12.5-mile segment to an unpaved road junction (mm 1252.7) at 3:45PM.


We attempted to reach mm 1221 in Wrong-way's vehicle via a different route than previously, though were thwarted. We then drove to my car at Bucks Summit, changed plan, again, then drove both vehicles to Three Lakes Campground, 18.8 miles away.


Observing the CLOSED FOR THE SEASON sign and locked gate blocking the campground road, Wrong-way said, "I'm out of ideas. Got any suggestions?"


Stunned, I didn't know what to say, but before I could, he added, "We could drive back to Quincy and get a hotel room."


Exacerbated, I yelled, "F@*%!", realizing that our plan was stymied. Then I added, "Let's find a flat spot here somewhere. No one else will be coming here tonight."


And so, we found a suitable spot to set up Wrong-way's tent, and I told myself that tomorrow would bring a fresh perspective.


10/31/25, Friday (Day 11) - Frost covered everything when we arose. We packed up, drove both cars to Bucks Summit, where I dropped mine. Then, we drove toward Three Lakes/PCT junction (mm 1280.1) in Wrong-way's car. The "four-wheel drive" road to our trailhead connection grew too rough for Wrong-way's vehicle, per his assessment, however, so we parked about one mile short of the Three Lakes trailhead, adding that to our day's NOBO hiking distance (about two miles total). We departed his RAV4 at 10:27AM and reached the PCT junction (mm 1280.1) at 1:30PM. With a temperature of around 47 degrees, and few wispy clouds high above, we remained relatively cool, though my sweat was profuse, as we passed through another section of burned pine forest, which provided little shade.


5PM, we reached my car at Bucks Summit road (mm1269.1).


As I drove us to Belden Town in preparation for our last segment hike of this trip, I told Wrong-way, "I'm bummed about not doing the segment from Feather River to 1221." Prim8 was happy to forego hiking that segment, though.


"I am, too," Wrong-way said.


Wrong-way and I opted for another hotel-stay, this time at the Belden Town Resort & Lodge.


Prim8 was quite content about this, too ... and frankly, so was I! We both desired a break from the aches and pains of knees, calves and feet, which seemed relentless, though varied from day to day.


That evening, Wrong-way and I occupied stools at the resort's bar for drinks and dinner, and in addition, we purchased breakfast burritos for the following morning.


11/1/25, Saturday (Day 12) - Up before sunrise (5:30AM), we consumed our burritos, left the room, and began our hike at the light of dawn.


From Belden Town/PCT junction (mm 1288.0), we faced a SOBO 7.9-mile hike with an elevation differential of 4,013 feet (lowest to highest points) to Three Lakes Summit Trail junction (mm 1280.1). (This segment from mm1267.8 to mm1272.3 gained 3,210 feet!) Though, I knew the "uphill" direction would be fatiguing, I figured that would be more tolerable than the stress upon my knees (resulting in pain) of hiking downhill.


We attained the highpoint along the tail at 11:55AM, awe inspired by the views of the surrounding, rugged terrain.


Feather River canyon near Belden.

(Note: Taken from our day's

hike highpoint.)


We reached the PCT/Three Lakes Trail junction (mm 1280.1) at 12:30PM, officially ending our PCT hiking. However, another 2 miles to Wrong-way's car faced us, which seemed interminable.


Pressed to return home by Monday, Nov 2, Wrong-way mentioned returning at a later date to hike the segment between mm 1221 (near A Tree spring) and the South Fork Feather River junction (mm 1236.5), which he considered an overnight hike.


I admit that 15.5-mile segment (with an elevation loss of 4,200 feet, with a lowpoint near Duck Soup Pond, then a gain of the same elevation to finish, regardless which direction hiked) would be daunting. And, presently, I didn't have the oomph for that.


Once we arrived at my car in Belden Town, Wrong-way and I resorted our respective gear. I removed my Hoka hiking boots. Wrong-way and I bide farewell before starting our respective drives home.


Our final tally: We hiked the PCT, some NOBO and some SOBO, from mm 1196.6 to mm 1221 and mm 1236.5 to mm 1332.3 for a total of 120.2 miles. And we'll return at some point to complete the segment between mm 1221 and mm 1236.5 (15.5 miles).


Prim8 removes his Hoka hiking

boots. (For the last time?)


I opted to head home straightaway and arrived about midnight, relieved that my body could recuperate.


After examining my Hoka's at home, I decided to retire them. I calculated that they'd carried me 353.5 miles on the PCT. I'll probably purchase a pair of their clones, later.


My trusty Hoka hiking boots.



Walk in beauty.


 
 

Bottom line: Getting back to your roots can be a spiritual experience!


Sunset from Hwange

National Park, Zimbabwe.


Janet and I recently joined a Smithsonian Journey to South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, places we'd never been. Though a short trip in duration, our itinerary kept us busy as beavers, and we were filled with great memories of encounters with a wide spectrum of wild animals ... up close, that is. In addition, we were treated to three lectures by Dr. Robert Schrire about South Africa's apartheid past, it's current political environment and potential future. And, it should go without saying, we took necessary precautions against illnesses, for example by dosing ourselves with a generic version of Malarone to ward off malaria.


Thursday, Oct 2 (Cape Town, South Africa) – We spent a "free day" before our tour activities began in earnest by touring several nearby wineries.


Friday, Oct 3 (Cape Town) – After an orientation meeting, we toured the peninsula south of South Africa's "mother city".


1) Cape Town was originally establish in 1652 as a "rest and resupply stop" by the Dutch for ships rounding Africa's southern cape.


2) The Chinese were visiting and charting that shoreline as early as 1421!


3) Along our drive, we learned that one of the local wines is named "Splattered Toad", originating from toad road kill, a result of migrating creatures crossing roads during egg-laying season.


The tip of the Cape of Good Hope.


4) Originally named Cape of Storms by Bartolomeu Dias in 1488, the cape was renamed by King John II of Portugal in order to encourage the poor wretches rounding Africa on the ships.


5) Ironically, the Cape of Good Hope is not the most southern tip of Africa. Cape Agulhas, east and 34 miles farther south, owns that distinction, and many ships mistook the Bay of False Hope as their route of passage to Europe.


False Bay (distant left) and Cape

of Good Hope (below the right peaklet).


6) South Africa has eleven official languages, respecting the various tribes and subsequent immigrants, such as the Dutch descendant Afrikaners, and the English. Remember the Boer War between England and the Dutch settlers? (Though apparently, there were two!)


Headed back to Cape Town via the western side of False Bay, we stopped at Boulders Beach to view a colony of African Penguins.


One of the many penguins at the

colony approaches viewers without

concern. (BTW, that's sand, not snow!)


Saturday, Oct 4 (Cape Town) – We headed to Robben Island via ferry from Cape Town Harbor.


Cape Town Harbor

and Table Mountain.


We toured Robben Island, used as a prison location and leper colony off and on from1683. A former political prisoner provided us a guided tour of the facility, including Nelson Mandela's cell.


Nelson Mandela's cell.


After returning to Cape Town, clouds obscured Table Mountain, so we drove to Signal Hill, adjacent and lower, though clouds hampered panoramic views from there, as well.


A portion of Cape Town from the

flank of Signal Hill. (Our hotel,

pink, is roughly centered.)


Sunday, Oct 5 through Tuesday, Oct 7 (Kapama Private Game Reserve) – We flew to tiny Hoedspruit airport near Kapama Private Game Preserve. And, while staying at the lodge, we were treated two "Game Drives" daily, several hours each morning and each evening. And, we started living an African wild-game National Geographic documentary, rather than watching one on TV!


Riding in specially adapted jeeps during our six Game Drives, we witnessed a multitude of animals.


7) We were warned to remain seated (as well, by no means leave the vehicle), and if we didn't yell or make wild gestures, the animals would consider us as part of the jeep ... and, that the animals, having never been threatened or harmed in association to the jeeps, would not react with alarm or fear. And, so it was!


A stately male Cape Buffalo.


A leopard!


Family herds commingle

at a waterhole.


A male lion heads for a snack.


Same lion snacks on a giraffe.


Hippos in their element.

(What's so funny?)


8) Except to eat, hippos do almost everything in the water, where they keep cool, and protected from predators and the sun's harsh UV-rays.


Warthogs (Eating what?)


I couldn't determine what they were so interested in!


Two giraffes, in no hurry.


11) Giraffes browse on the straight thorns of Acacia trees, which are modified leaves. (We were warned not to feed a giraffe as the tongue could rip the skin from your hand!)


12) Giraffes have the highest blood pressure of land animals ... 220/180 mmHg when standing, but can rise to 330/200 mmHg when drinking water. Gotta move that blood up and down a long neck!


Our guide drove us to a hyena den. (All the guides knew where that hyena den was located, and it's not like the hyenas move everyday!) And, with luck, we observed an adult pair with two young during siesta.


Hyenas, unfazed by our presence.


A Red Hornbill.


Vervet Monkey with baby perches

on the roof of our resort lodge.


We saw no African wild dogs, though they do roam into the preserve as they have an expansive range. As well, they are the rarest (most endangered) of the land animals there.


13) Though not the fastest of land animals, reaching a speed of 70 kph (43.5 mph), wild dogs have considerable endurance and tire their prey prior to attack, figuratively running them into the ground.


Though we didn't see the termites, their mounds are indeed impressive.


Active termite colony mound.


14) Termite queens can live up to 50 (fifty) years!


Wednesday, Oct 8 (Johannesburg) – After flying to Johannesburg, we drove to an impoverished township Kliptown, located in Soweto (short for South Western Townships). On the way to Kliptown, we stopped for lunch, where I enjoyed a locally brewed beer.


Houses in Kliptown (Soweto).


Then, we were driven to our hotel in Johannesburg for an overnight stay.


Thursday, Oct 9 (Pretoria) – After our overnight in Johannesburg, we were driven by bus to the Rovos Rail Station in Pretoria.


Panorama of the Rovos Rail "Capital

Park Station" (Maintenance Yard far left).


Rohan Vos, owner of Rovos Rail, gives

us a tour of the Maintenance Yard.


He explained that he purchases dilapidated train cars and refurbishes them in the style of former luxury-travel glory-days. Following our guided tour, we had lunch at the station. Originally, we were to board the Rovos Rail train there. However, that plan got "derailed" when a train mishap along the line blocked the track. So, we boarded buses, and were driven to Louis Trichardt, some 234 miles "up the line" in order to by-pass the blocked rail section.


Janet and I ready to board

the train in Louis Trichardt.


Our original compartment on the train, more of a cubicle, would've likely resulted in "murder on the Rovos Express", as Janet and I later joked to others ... and, as luck had it, we upgraded to a larger compartment.


Janet in our compartment upgrade.


We settled in for our three-day train ride, rocking and rolling, as well as jerking forward and backward without prior notice, when the train stopped and started. Such are the joys of train travel in some parts of the world! Regardless, we soaked in the train's Victorian/Edwardian ambience of luxury as best we could.


The more regal of the two dining cars.


Janet poses in the

Observation Car (aka bar).


Friday, Oct 10 (Rovos Rail) – The train rumbled along as we crossed the border into Zimbabwe, near Beitbridge,


15) then traveled one of the longest straight stretches of track in the world, 114 km (71 miles).


Saturday, Oct 11 (Rovos Rail) – Our train stopped at Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and we enjoyed another Game Drive, observing more animals.


An infant baboon tentatively

explores the world.


Grazing Wildebeest.


Jackal. On the hunt?


Two Zebra leave the waterhole.


Following our Game Drive, we re-boarded the train for Victoria Falls ... and, sometime in the night, I developed a case of "Montezuma's revenge"!


Sunday, Oct 12 (Victoria Falls) – We disembarked the train at Victoria Falls Station, and checked into our hotel. I informed our tour guide, Tina, of my malady. She suggested the cause was a side-effect of my antimalarial medication, and gave me several carbon pills to take, which I did. (Janet had similar symptoms, though I'll not elaborate further!)


The Rovos train awaits it's next

passengers at Victoria Falls

Station across from our hotel.


Though feeling weak from loss of body fluids and sleep, I soldiered onward as we took a walking tour of nearby Victoria Falls, which provided us gorgeous views.


15) The falls border Zambia and Zimbabwe,


16) and are just over a mile wide when the Zambezi River flows in abundance.


The falls from the Zimbabwe

side at the end the drier season.


Monday, Oct 13 (Chobe National Park, Botswana) – Feeling much better, I'd once again prevailed over Montezuma. By bus, we were driven to the border check point, then walked through "no-man's land" into Botswana. In Chobe National Park, we climbed into a jeep for another Game Drive, then later boarded a boat for a ride on the Chobe River to see the wildlife from a different perspective.


A "journey" of giraffes

cross a Game Drive road.


17) Our game driver told us when stationary, they're referred to as a "tower"!


The Chobe River from

our Game Drive jeep.


A "committee, venue, or volt"

of vultures. (Take your pick!)


I prefer committee. Maybe, it's my suspicious nature, but I think they were conspiring!


18) If those vultures were eating, they'd be called a "kettle"! (Who thought that up?)


A male African Sable (antelope).


I always thought sables were smaller furry things! Aside from that, we saw animals I'd not previously heard of, such as Kudu, Tsessebe, Puli and Red Lechwe (all ungulates), not to mention the numerous winged critters.


Tsessebe headed away from the river.


19) We were informed that Tsessebe are among the fastest land animals, reaching speeds up to 56 mph, as opposed to cheetahs at 70 mph.


Guinea Fowl (aka Chobe Chicken).


Our game driver told us Chobe Chickens are tougher and not as tasty as our more common American tamed fowl of that name. (I took his word for it!)


A male Kudu checks us out.

(Impalas graze behind him.)


An Openbill Stork (African

variety) looks for a meal.


Chobe National Park proved to be a birder's paradise. I couldn't keep up with all the names of the birds we saw, much less snap photos of them.


An elephant snorkels across the Chobe

River in search of greener pastures.


We spotted two hippos grazing in the morning, which they sometimes do in order to beat the other grazers to the best stuff. Competition, you know!


Two grazers, unconcerned

about our presence, munch away.


20) Hippos graze on short grass,


21) can travel up to 6 (six) miles per outing, and,


22) with tusks instead of smaller teeth, they use their specially adapted lower lip to graze.


A mother crocodile guards

her egg nest on a small island

created by the Chobe River.


Soon after I captured this photo, another boat approached her to within several feet, and she didn't flinch! Our boat guide said she wouldn't move unless her eggs were threatened.


After our day's excursions, we were treated to local entertainment during dinner at our hotel.


Our evening's dinner entertainment

at Victoria Falls Hotel.


Tuesday, Oct 14 (Homeward bound) – Our African safaris come to a close, we flew to Johannesburg, then home via Dubai, arriving early evening Wednesday our local time.


I thoroughly enjoyed our safari adventures in Africa, found them informative, enlightening and enriching. I'd recommend travel there to anyone, particularly near the end of the dry season. (Hint: fewer mosquitoes and less tree leaves to obstruct spotting animals.)

May you enjoy your adventures and walk in beauty.


 
 

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connard@connardhogan.com

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