Leapfrogging NOBO (PCT)

Bottom line: Hiking requires sweat equity and working body parts!

Primate celebrates the completion

of his first 1,000 miles on the PCT!

(He still needs to get to the car,

almost a mile downhill, however.)

6/27/26, Saturday (Day 0) - Prim8 and I rendezvoused with Mark R. (Wrong-way) at the Evergeen Hotel in Shasta City prior to commencing our sectional hike of the PCT from near McCloud, CA (Halfmile PCT Notes, mm 1474.5) to Etna Summit (Halfmile PCT Notes, mm 1581.0).

Our plan: Car camp to allow for day hiking (avoid carrying weight by packing overnight gear, food, bear canister, etc) by alternating our vehicles to "leapfrog" northward (NOBO) on the PCT, though hiking SOBO segments each day. As a result, we needed two sets of overnight gear (tents, sleeping bags, toiletries, etc), one set in each car.

Note: I continue to use PCT Halfmile marker designations, though while hiking, I relied on Wrong-way's references to a FarOut cell phone app. And the two references don't match! The important point for us is to hike the sections that we've not previously done, regardless of the mile marker system we're using!

6/28/26, Sunday (Day 1) - Cabin Creek Trail junction/Road 38N82 (mm 1486.5) to Road 38N53 junction (mm 1474.5, our southern most point on the PCT during this trip)

Following a hardy breakfast at the Black Bear in Shasta City, we parked my car near the trial, then drove Wrong-way's RAV 4 to the Cabin Creek Trail junction.

Beginning our SOBO hike at 10AM under clear skies and in a cold breeze, we soon adjusted to the temperature while hiking. I soon felt wet with sweat, so removed my fleece jacket, and replaced my wool skull cap with a broad-brimmed hat.

Immediately, Prim8 made it clear that he didn't appreciate the pain intensifying in my left leg. I'd figured my arthritic knee would be a problem, though was unsure as to what degree. Regardless, I hobbled onward. During the day, various parts of my left leg, from hip to foot, joined in the pain-fest, as if in a concerted effort to induce me to quit hiking.

Stop! Prim8 demanded.

Okay. You'll get no argument from me, fella.

I paused periodically to catch a breath, and in hopes of easing the pain. Alas, the pain subsided only slightly and briefly, building again once I continued on.

Wrong-way showed me a video and picture that he'd taken of a bear.

Bear! Prim8 gasped.

"I missed it," I said. Just as well, probably.

Can you see the lurking bear?

(Photo courtesy of Wrong-way)

5PM, we arrived at my car, then stopped in Shasta City for dinner, before continuing to Castle Crags State Park campground.

Contrary to my hopes, my leg ached all night, and I had difficulty sleeping.

6/29/26, Monday (Day 2) - Soda Creek/near Interstate Hwy 5 (mm 1502.7) to Cabin Creek (mm 1486.5)

Reloading our night's gear into my car, Prim8 filled with dread and not a happy camper, I knew something had to give. I'll try Advil, Prim8. That should take the edge off, at least.

We left my car at 7:15AM under a thin, high overcast. The cool temperature and breeze felt pleasant, even more so once I began to sweat. My leg discomfort seemed subdued, yet after an hour or so, the pain had returned to the previous day's intensity.

No, Prim8 griped.

We can tough it out, guy, I countered, fingers crossed.

We arrived at Wrong-way's vehicle at 4:15PM, Prim8 giving me fits over my continued left leg pain.

Once again, though in Wrong-way's car, we dined in Shasta City, then car-camped in Castle Crags State Park.

The temperature through the night was pleasant, yet I slept little, and poorly at that.

6/30/26, Tuesday, (Day 3) - Dog Trailhead (mm 1509.2) to Soda Creek/near Interstate 5 (mm 1502.7)

I discovered a blister had grown on the big toe of one foot and, on the other, a small toenail had irritated that reddened toe, despite wearing new boots!

No! Prim8 protested.

Perhaps, I should've broken these boots in beforehand, guy. But, at least, those particular pains are explained! The least of my issues, I trimmed the toenail and wrapped it and the offending blister with tape. As for my sore leg, I downed a couple of Advil along with my usual regime of script meds and supplements.

Breaking camp and repacking the car, we asked ourselves and each other questions such as, Where did I leave that?, Have you seen it?, and Did I put one in this car? We began to realize that tracking duplicate items, one in each car, would be a challenge.

"Hey Mark, remember the 'Catholic Sign of the Cross'? That might help." I gestured as I said, "Keys (car keys, of course), wallet (driver's license, credit card/money), water (for the day's hike), and filter (water filter)." Those constituted the bare essentials to carry, given our current circumstances!

Our day's hike started ~9:15AM from Dog Trail Junction in good weather and cool temperature.

I suffered the pain in my left leg, somewhat reduced by the Advil, while Primate periodically demanded, Stop!

Alright, alright. I usually needed to catch my breath and cool down, per my sweat-fest in full swing as the day's temperature increased. One step at a time, fella.

Wrong-way usually proceeded ahead of me, though waited at chosen spots for me to catch up.

Prim8 points the way

from the wooden bridge

at Winton Canyon Creek.

1:50PM, we arrived at my car at Soda Creek/near Interstate 5 (mm 1502.7), Prim8 screaming about my on-going leg ache.

We headed to Shasta City for some cooked food (and beer, of course), then onto the Gumboot Summit Junction.

"Maybe, we should start our hikes earlier," I opined. "Before sunrise," I added.

Wrong-way agreed, though Prim8 wasn't keen.

Once again, overnight temperatures were pleasant, as I squirmed inside my sleeping bag, shielded from blood-suckers by one-man "Bug Hut." My leg ache just wouldn't quit.

7/1/26, Wednesday (Day 4) - Gumboot Trailhead (mm 1526.7) to Dog Trail junction (mm 1509.2)

Usual routines of breaking camp completed, following our 6AM wake-up, we hit the trail as an array of dawn colors filled the sky.

The downhill portion of the day's segment (some 3,500 feet) felt torturous as my leg-ache increased to a near-intolerable level...and sooner...despite helpings of Advil. Sun rays beat down upon us off and on, and, by Wrong-way's best estimation, the temperature rose to 90 degrees.

Castle Crags as seen

from the west.

Near the end of our day's hike, about 2.5 miles remaining, Wrong-way offered to carry my pack.

Prim8 didn't complain, and I relented, saying, "I don't want you to feel that you need to babysit me." Something's gotta change, Prim8.

I resolved that I'd schedule an appointment with my orthopedist to replace my offending joint, which he'd told me he would do, "...whenever you're ready."

Once at Wrong-way's RAV, we drove to Shasta City for dinner...including beer, before procuring a campsite in the local KOA. Once our camp was set up, we availed ourselves of showers, which for me consisted of rinsing off my residual stink and donning my same sweaty clothing. (I didn't have soap nor clean clothes in Mark's car!)

7/2/26, Thursday (Day5) - Parks Creek Road junction (mm 1540.7) to Gumboot Trail junction/Hwy 26 (mm 1526.7)

At 9:25AM, we left Mark's car in the ample parking area at the road junction, then headed southward in excellent hiking weather.

Unshielded from the sun, the air temperature rose and we were slow-cooked as the day progressed.

A well-deserved lunch break at noon, and about 5 miles along, helped gird me for the remaining 9 miles of the day's hike to my car.

Wrong-way photographs a

few of the many wildflowers

blooming along the trail.

Throughout the day, we were treated to gorgeous views, and my leg pain, though still present, seemed slightly more tolerable. I couldn't determine why, of course, nevertheless felt glad that it hadn't grown worse.

One of the many views

of Mt. Shasta along the trail.

Clouds building, we reached Gumboot Trail junction/Hwy 26 at 5:30PM, fingers crossed that our good weather would continue.

We spent the night under a bright, full moon at Kangaroo Lake campground. Once again, pain in my leg and toes interrupted my sleep.

7/3/26, Friday (Day 6) - Cooper Meadow Trail junction/near Kangaroo Lake campground (mm 1552.8) to Parks Creek (mm 1540.7)

We arose to a clear sky and cool temperature, and started up Fen Trail to the PCT junction, about 1 mile away, at 7:40AM.

Six, or so, NOBO through-hikers passed us in irregular intervals, some chatting with us, some rushing by with little more than a Howdy-do.

At one point, struck by hikers wearing hoodies, I said to Wrong-way, "I don't understand how anyone can stand wearing those in this heat." I grasped the concept of compromise, and hauling fewer articles of clothing, while getting protection from the sun's rays. But still...the heat!

"I guess those are all the rage, now," he replied.

During one rest stop in the shade, Wrong-way noted the temperature to be 65 degrees. It certainly seemed warmer to me!

Our day's hike completed at 3:25PM, we drove to Weed for dinner...and beer, of course. Afterward, we headed to our next car-camp site at Hwy 3/Scott Mountain Summit (mm 1561.2).

Several hours of daylight remaining, and hoping to shorten the next day's segment length, we drove up a nearby gravel road. Thwarted by a locked gate, where numerous parked cars lined both sides of the narrow road, Wrong-way wasn't to be deterred. With his car parked close to the gate, we bushwhacked upslope until we reached the PCT...and right at the Trinity Alps Wilderness boundary (mm 1563.8).

As per the next day's hike itinerary of over 19 miles, and well aware of my leg issue, Wrong-way suggested, "You could hike an additional 2.6 miles segment today to the Highway 3 junction...if you're up to it." (The latter emphasized.) I can do this segment tomorrow, while you wait there with my day pack."

And, though Prim8 catastrophized, I said, "Okay. Seems easy enough, especially without a day pack."

I headed off towards the Hwy 3 junction (mm1561.2) from the Trinity Wilderness sign (mm1563.8).

7/4/26, Saturday (Day 7) - Hwy 3/Scott Mountain Summit trail junction and campground (mm 1561.2) to Cooper Meadow Trail junction/near Kangaroo Lake campground (mm 1552.8)

Wrong-way drove off at 7AM to hike from near the locked gate to the Hwy 3 trail junction where I waited.

In short order, we continued together toward my car at Kangaroo Lake campground some 9 miles on under a cloudless sky with a light breeze. The temperature hovered around 60 degrees, which felt pleasant initially. However, the rising temperature of around 90 degrees, coupled with a clear sky and scarce shade, induced sweating as we hiked.

Can you guess

what this is?

One deer, lying on the trail, arose as we approached, then wandered down the trail until it reached brush, moved off the trail a few feet, and began to browse. I couldn't help but appreciate, and feel awed, that the deer wasn't afraid of us.

Checking us out.

(Who, me in a hurry?)

After the 1.25-mile downhill slog along Fen Trail, we reached my car at 3:22PM. Straight away we drove to Callahan, where we had dinner, and...you guessed it...cold beer.

Only one reason that

I love visiting saloons!

From there, we located an unoccupied horse camp some miles drive away. I wondered about the odds of stepping in droppings as I parked adjacent to a hitching post.

Settled in early, about sunset, we hoped to rise at 3:30AM for another earlyish start.

The night temperature proved pleasant as the waning moon advanced across the sky.

7/5/26, Sunday (Day 8) - Carter Meadows Summit/Hwy 93 trailhead (mm 1581.0) to Trinity Wilderness boundary sign (mm1563.8)

I'd had a pleasant night, though not without some leg discomfort. By this point, I'd concluded that was a new norm, at least during this trip. More Advil, please!

We started our day's hike at 4:30AM. Once the sun had risen, thin, high clouds helped shade us...somewhat.

We encountered deadfall trees on numerous occasions, which necessitated awkward clambers over the larger, more inconsiderably placed, trees.

Wrong-way assisted me over a number of the more difficult ones, and at one point referred to my hiking pole as a"cane."

Am I that decrepit? I wasn't quite sure how to respond to that, and, being thankful for the assistance, said nothing.

One of the many spectacular

views along the trail.

The day had grown hot before we finished our marathon hike of 11 hours, I felt knackered and relieved.

We stopped in Callahan a second time (nearest town on our route) for a beer! Then, we proceeded to Etna, where we consumed a cooked meal, along with more beer. We recognized a number of NOBO through-hikers whom we'd passed on the trail, though we didn't converse with them. (They appeared occupied with their acquaintances.)

7/6/27, Monday (Day 9) - Music Creek Trail junction (mm 1592.9) to Carter Meadows Summit Trailhead (mm 1581.0)

Up at 4:30AM, we drove 9 miles to the parking area of Music Creek nearest the PCT. At 6:05AM, we missed the trail leading to the PCT initially, so backtracked to the parking area before spotting it as it headed off at an oblique angle.

"No wonder we missed it," I said to Wrong-way.

With thin, high clouds above, and in a cool, light breeze, we switch-backed through burned forest and low brush for about 1 mile, until we reached the PCT junction at 7:10AM.

Some segments of trail crossed rock faces.

Prim8 ponders the trail ahead.

We finished our day's PCT hike of 11.9 miles at 3:30PM. Without delay, we drove to Etna for a dinner and beer, then on to Idlewild Campground to spend the night.

We planned for another early start, with a wake-up at 4:30AM, in order to beat the heat...or at least some of it.

It seemed hot, though I had no way to know the temperature for sure.

7/7/26, Tuesday (Day 10) - Etna Summit/Sawyers Road junction (mm 1600.7) to Music Creek Trail junction (mm 1592.9)

Following our routines of sorts, we broke camp, then headed off for the Etna Summit/Sawyers Bar Road junction (our northern most point on the PCT during this trip)

The sky was cloudless when we left the car at 5:50AM. The trail ascended about 3,000 feet over the next 3.5 miles, and my leg pain remained at a constant level, and mostly tolerable. As it turned out, my leg functioned quite well on the uphill, though I loathed the upcoming descent.

Again, we were treated to gorgeous views of the mountains and valleys eastward.

Sure enough, my leg pain increased as we descended, but I knew I could tough it out. Had to!

Prim8 celebrated our achievement of hiking our first 1,000 miles on the PCT when we arrived at the Music Creek trailhead, despite the fact that we still faced a descent to Mark's RAV nearly a mile away. That seemed to take forever, though we arrived at 11:35AM.

Knackered, Prim8 and I headed to Red Bluff for the night, and hopefully a good shower, restful sleep and breakfast before driving the remaining several hundred home. (Still a long drive!)

7/8/26 - Still knackered when I arrived home, I sought out my recliner in order to begin recovery.

Distance covered on the PCT this trip: Road 38N53 trail junction near the McCloud River (mm 1474.5) to Etna Summit/Sawyer Road (mm1600.7) 126.2 miles! A considerable distance, in light of my left leg problem. Thus, our accumulated miles on the PCT passed 1,000 miles on our last day's hike.

Time to junk the old knee, and opt for a newfangled trade-in!

Note: Though we spotted numerous animal species, we encountered no trail angels. Apparently, they don't exist in northern California!

Walk in beauty.

A Road Obstacle Spoils Completion (PCT)

Bottom line: The best laid plans often go astray.

Sunset near Quincy, CA.

Mark R. (once again using the moniker of Wrong-way) and I made a last minute alteration to our hike plan (the section from Horseshoe Meadow to Bishop Pass). Instead, we opted for a stretch of trail in lower elevation, and thus, with less chance of inclement weather, vis-à-vis snow. Wrong-way liked the section between Sierra City, CA (mm 1196.6) and Chester, CA (mm 1332.3).

Note: Though, we opted to hike northbound (NOBO) some days, and southbound (SOBO) some days, I provide the northbound mile-marker designations for consistency, since we're headed northward overall anyway.

And, as per our two-vehicle availability, we anticipated moving our cars as necessary to maximize our one-day hikes, decrease the number of overnights on the trail ... and thus carry less weight (tent, sleeping bags, water, warm weather clothing and food). In addition, we'd have the option to hike northbound or southbound, depending which direction we considered the most advantageous for each section between our positioned vehicles at road junctions (increasing or decreasing elevation, for example). What a plan! Thru-hikers can't do that! Prim8 was all in on the idea, of course.

10/20/25, Monday (Day 0) - Wrong-way and I rendezvoused in Chester, a drive of some 538 miles for me, for an overnight stay there prior to starting our segment hiking. My drive went smoothly and the fall colors of deciduous trees near Lassen National Park were stunning, which helped offset the depressing and seemingly endless burned, blackened pines.

10/21/25, Tuesday (Day 1) - Frost coated my car's windshield in Chester as Wrong-way and Prim8 anticipated beginning our first day's segment hike.

My car positioned at Highway 36/PCT junction (mm 1332.3), we then drove to Humboldt Summit parking area (mm 1312.8) in Wrong-way's car.

Starting our hike at 8:30AM under a cloudless sky and temperature of 36 degrees F, I anticipated feeling chilled as we headed NOBO (northbound), though soon warmed up as per usual from the exertion of hiking.

To my surprise, we came upon the PCT "Halfway Monument" (mm 1320.7). (Due to yearly reroutes, however, the actual halfway point is now estimated to be closer to mile 1325.1.) Though, Wrong-way and I had skipped a considerable section of the PCT from Horseshoe Meadow to here, we nevertheless commemorated our arrival. After all, we fully expected to hike every mile of the trail at some time, regardless.

Prim8 points NOBO from

the PCT Halfway Marker.

I spotted a sticker inside the registration box at the Halfway Monument, and pointed it out to Wrong-way. We both chuckled.

"I go through this every day," I joked to Wrong-way. Prim8 knew exactly what I meant.

Sticker on the registration box

at the PCT Halfway Monument.

Several miles on, we passed two men engaged in trail maintenance. One informed us that the Dixie Fire had consumed about 980,000 acres in 2021. Note: I've since researched that fire and learned it burned for two months, reached a final size of 963,309 acres (that's 1,505 square miles!) and was the second-largest single wildfire in California history at the time.

Wrong-way (Mark) pauses

on the trail. (Note: We were to

see many burned pine trees.)

A view of burned pine forest with

Mt. Lassen (background, near centered).

A better view of Mt.

Lassen from the trail.

Further evidence of a fire.

Evidence of forest regeneration.

We camped near Soldier Creek at mm 1325.4, some 12.6 miles from our start. Then, we munched on cold, dry food. No cooking on the trail for us! We avoided schlepping cooking gear, stove and fuel on the trail. Why carry the weight?

10/22/25, Wednesday (Day 2) - The temperature a bit warmer, and with no frost present at 8:11AM, we continued NOBO in light wind through the remnant of burned pine forest.

I noticed a familiar pain aside the heel of my left foot as we hiked. Sure enough, when I checked later, I discovered a blister.

Dang it, Prim8! I won't forget to grease my feet again.

Once at Highway 36 junction (mm 1332.3), we drove to Belden Town to drop my car, then headed to Humboldt Summit parking area in Wrong-way's RAV4.

10/23/25, Thursday (Day 3) - Under clear sky and in a light, but chilling breeze, we left our car camp at Humboldt Summit at 7:30AM, heading SOBO. Before we started, however, I'd applied a pad to my foot's blistered area, then smeared an ample amount of Vaseline to both feet. (And which I would continue to do daily.)

That should fix it, Prim8.

Low growing brush, from one to one-and-a-half feet high, crowded the trail for several long stretches.

No place to be wearing short pants, Prim8!

At ~mm 1300, a sign informed us of the transition boundary from the Cascade Mountain Range to the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. Soon after, I concluded the trail condition had worsened when the rounded, smaller pumice stones disappeared, replaced by irregular, jagged ones of various composition that created a greater tripping hazard!

At 6PM, as nightfall approached, and unable to find a nearby designated trail campsite, we discovered a level area aside the trail, large enough for the footprint of Wrong-way's two-man tent (~mm 1296.6?).

Can you spot our

makeshift campsite?

(BTW, we left no discernible

traces of our presence.)

10/24/25, Friday (Day 4) - Breaking camp, we continued SOBO at 7:51AM. Prim8 complained constantly about knee pain as we hiked this 8.6-mile rocky stretch descending nearly 2,600 feet in elevation, though not at a steady grade. Slowed by the agony of painful knees (mine), we arrived at my car in Belden Town (mm 1288.0) at 1:30PM.

Wrong-way prepares to peruse the

"dubious luxuries" at the Belden

Town Resort Lodge.

After retrieving Mark's car, we discussed various options, revised our plan, then drove both vehicles to a hotel in Chester.

Blame it on age, or poor physical conditioning ... and though I had thoughts of becoming a wuss ... I put up no fuss when Wrong-way had suggested this option. I preferred to blame it on my painful knees! Prim8 wasn't complaining, that's for sure.

10/25/25, Saturday (Day 5) - During an intermittent light rain in Chester, we enjoyed a cooked breakfast at Cravings Restaurant. Sated for the moment, we prepositioned my car at Bucks Lake Road junction (mm 1269.1), then drove Wrong-way's vehicle to Big Creek Road junction (mm 1264.7).

Dressed for rain, our 4.6-mile trek to my car proceeded in relatively dry conditions, though the sky broke open just as we finished our hike.

Great timing, Prim8! "Just in time," I joked with Wrong-way.

We retrieved Mark's RAV4, and made a beeline for the Old Sierra City Hotel, where we secured a room.

Prim8 embraces the Old

Sierra City Hotel as

"Home, Sweet Home."

Restroom sign at Old Sierra

City Hotel, least anyone get

confused.

Wrong-way and I sauntered down the double-lane main street (the only street there that I could discern) to Sorracco's Saloon, less than a hundred yards distance. With a considerable selection of beer and liquor from which to choose, we sampled some of Ron's wares, as we chatted with him and other fellow imbibers.

My selection of a "Kentucky Tangerine Cream" beer hit the spot. Very tasty it was, and Prim8 loved it! That encouraged me to imbibe with a shot of Mary Dowling bourbon ... though I'm not a connoisseur by any means, I just like to experience different things. Wrong-way stuck with beer.

Returned to the Old Sierra City Hotel, we had dinner, then hunkered in for the night.

10/26/25, Sunday (Day 6) - Rain continued throughout the day. (Would've been a misery for us to hike). Anticipating the weather's improvement, we'd positioned Wrong-way's car at a campground (mm 1221) near "A Tree spring". (I kid you not about that name.) One rough patch on the road nearly stymied us altogether, when I had difficulty getting traction over an formation of rock. Persevering, however, I maneuvered my car to the planned trail/campground junction. Then, leaving Wrong-way's car there and on our way out in my car, Wrong-way strategically re-positioned a few rocks, which helped reduce the severity of the said obstacle, and thus, potential damage to my vehicle.

We returned to the Old Sierra City Hotel for another night's stay.

10/27/25, Monday (Day 7) - The rain moved on, and the sky was cloudless, though the roads remained wet and a thin layer of snow covered the ground in scattered patches. In my car, we drove to a jeep road/trail junction (~mm 1208), which Wrong-way referred to as "Packer Lake", though that name didn't appear on the Halfmile PCT notes.

I wrapped my soar, left knee with a stretchy bandage, and we started our hike SOBO about 9:25AM in a temperature of 37 degrees F. An intermittent light breeze kept us cool. Small amounts of snow lay spread across the terrain and on the trail, clearly recording evidence of bear presence, as our day's hike segment ranged above seven-thousand feet.

Evidence of bears in the vicinity.

When we completed our day's hike in Sierra City, Wrong-way and I opted to stay at the Old Sierra City Hotel ... again!

Are we turning into wimps? I wondered. Prim8 liked the idea, however. I concluded that the stretchy bandage worked to reduce my left knee pain, and that hiking uphill might better suit my body.

10/28/25, Tuesday (Day 8) - Up at 6AM, we drove to mm 1208 (Packer Lake), then started our SOBO hike toward Sierra City (mm 1196.6) at 7:10AM in the 33-degree temperature. Initially, needle ice on the trail crunched under our feet, though disappeared as the sun warmed the air.

The trail gained elevation, as we circumnavigated the Sierra Buttes, then crossed the rock breakdown below the buttes.

Worried about tripping, resulting in a face plant, Prim8 thoroughly disliked this section ... and I agreed.

Segment of PCT which

I named "the slag heap".

"That was a real slag heap," I commented to Wrong-way afterwards.

Once at Wrong-way's RAV4 near Sierra City, we attempted to reposition it to the South Fork Feather River/trail junction (mm 1236.5). However, over-grown brush created a ever-narrowing corridor along the unmaintained road, before a fallen tree blocked our path altogether.

"Close, but no cigar," I said to Wrong-way.

He backed his car through the embracing brush about one-hundred feet before reaching a suitable spot where he could turn around.

At dusk, we car-camped at a road/trail junction (mm 1236.5).

10/29/25, Wednesday (Day 9) - We left Wrong-way's vehicle at 7:40AM, hiking NOBO under clear sky. Despite the cool temperature in the shade, I sweat profusely. We encountered fallen trees, necessitating a clamber over or an off-trail diversion around.

Prim8 whined about my tired, aching feet. I commiserated.

We crossed the steel bridge over the Middle Fork Feather River (mm1250.9).

Prim8 pauses for a better look.

Continuing onward, we passed what I considered a wizened tree.

Fungus on a burned pine.

(Wizened? Judge for yourself.)

At our day's hike of 16.2 miles, we arrived at a trail campsite (mm 1252.7).

10/30/25, Thursday (Day 10) - I'd had a long, miserable night as my legs ached. However, I forced myself up for a 7:20AM start, despite Prim8's protests.

We snacked on cold food, and soldiered on, pausing at Big Bear Creek footbridge crossing to replenish our water supply. When we looked closely, we identified the culprits gathered on the sign.

Lady bugs gathered on the

sign and surrounding debris.

We encountered numerous fallen trees blocking the trail, which slowed our progress, though we completed our day's 12.5-mile segment to an unpaved road junction (mm 1252.7) at 3:45PM.

We attempted to reach mm 1221 in Wrong-way's vehicle via a different route than previously, though were thwarted. We then drove to my car at Bucks Summit, changed plan, again, then drove both vehicles to Three Lakes Campground, 18.8 miles away.

Observing the CLOSED FOR THE SEASON sign and locked gate blocking the campground road, Wrong-way said, "I'm out of ideas. Got any suggestions?"

Stunned, I didn't know what to say, but before I could, he added, "We could drive back to Quincy and get a hotel room."

Exacerbated, I yelled, "F@*%!", realizing that our plan was stymied. Then I added, "Let's find a flat spot here somewhere. No one else will be coming here tonight."

And so, we found a suitable spot to set up Wrong-way's tent, and I told myself that tomorrow would bring a fresh perspective.

10/31/25, Friday (Day 11) - Frost covered everything when we arose. We packed up, drove both cars to Bucks Summit, where I dropped mine. Then, we drove toward Three Lakes/PCT junction (mm 1280.1) in Wrong-way's car. The "four-wheel drive" road to our trailhead connection grew too rough for Wrong-way's vehicle, per his assessment, however, so we parked about one mile short of the Three Lakes trailhead, adding that to our day's NOBO hiking distance (about two miles total). We departed his RAV4 at 10:27AM and reached the PCT junction (mm 1280.1) at 1:30PM. With a temperature of around 47 degrees, and few wispy clouds high above, we remained relatively cool, though my sweat was profuse, as we passed through another section of burned pine forest, which provided little shade.

5PM, we reached my car at Bucks Summit road (mm1269.1).

As I drove us to Belden Town in preparation for our last segment hike of this trip, I told Wrong-way, "I'm bummed about not doing the segment from Feather River to 1221." Prim8 was happy to forego hiking that segment, though.

"I am, too," Wrong-way said.

Wrong-way and I opted for another hotel-stay, this time at the Belden Town Resort & Lodge.

Prim8 was quite content about this, too ... and frankly, so was I! We both desired a break from the aches and pains of knees, calves and feet, which seemed relentless, though varied from day to day.

That evening, Wrong-way and I occupied stools at the resort's bar for drinks and dinner, and in addition, we purchased breakfast burritos for the following morning.

11/1/25, Saturday (Day 12) - Up before sunrise (5:30AM), we consumed our burritos, left the room, and began our hike at the light of dawn.

From Belden Town/PCT junction (mm 1288.0), we faced a SOBO 7.9-mile hike with an elevation differential of 4,013 feet (lowest to highest points) to Three Lakes Summit Trail junction (mm 1280.1). (This segment from mm1267.8 to mm1272.3 gained 3,210 feet!) Though, I knew the "uphill" direction would be fatiguing, I figured that would be more tolerable than the stress upon my knees (resulting in pain) of hiking downhill.

We attained the highpoint along the tail at 11:55AM, awe inspired by the views of the surrounding, rugged terrain.

Feather River canyon near Belden.

(Note: Taken from our day's

hike highpoint.)

We reached the PCT/Three Lakes Trail junction (mm 1280.1) at 12:30PM, officially ending our PCT hiking. However, another 2 miles to Wrong-way's car faced us, which seemed interminable.

Pressed to return home by Monday, Nov 2, Wrong-way mentioned returning at a later date to hike the segment between mm 1221 (near A Tree spring) and the South Fork Feather River junction (mm 1236.5), which he considered an overnight hike.

I admit that 15.5-mile segment (with an elevation loss of 4,200 feet, with a lowpoint near Duck Soup Pond, then a gain of the same elevation to finish, regardless which direction hiked) would be daunting. And, presently, I didn't have the oomph for that.

Once we arrived at my car in Belden Town, Wrong-way and I resorted our respective gear. I removed my Hoka hiking boots. Wrong-way and I bide farewell before starting our respective drives home.

Our final tally: We hiked the PCT, some NOBO and some SOBO, from mm 1196.6 to mm 1221 and mm 1236.5 to mm 1332.3 for a total of 120.2 miles. And we'll return at some point to complete the segment between mm 1221 and mm 1236.5 (15.5 miles).

Prim8 removes his Hoka hiking

boots. (For the last time?)

I opted to head home straightaway and arrived about midnight, relieved that my body could recuperate.

After examining my Hoka's at home, I decided to retire them. I calculated that they'd carried me 353.5 miles on the PCT. I'll probably purchase a pair of their clones, later.

My trusty Hoka hiking boots.

Walk in beauty.

Torture by Trail (PCT)

Bottom line: Adversity need not prevent us from continuing our journey.

I've learned that nature heals. The solitude of the great outdoors, colorful vistas of the world we inhabit, encounters with other living beings (including people), camaraderie with friends (in this case Bob N.), all help me maintain a healthier perspective and gratitude.

Though can be challenged by nature, a benefit in itself, nature doesn't judge, criticize or nag. When in nature, without "the noise" from other people, I can be who I want. I can sort through what is "mine," what is not, and determine who I want to be.

"Torture by Trail" highlights my alter ego's, Prim8 (pronounced primate), hike adventure on the Pacific Crest Trail from the Mexican Border to Cabazon near Palm Springs, some two hundred miles.

Author, aka Prim8, on the left and

Bob N., aka Dr. Bobo, on the right

at the southern terminus of the

Pacific Crest Trail before Prim8

begins his northward journey.

Mid-2017- Advancing one step at a time, from Mile Zero at the Mexican Border near Campo, CA, Prim8 focused on the immediate obstacles on the trail, dismissed thoughts about the distance ahead, and how many problems he may face before he arrived at Idyllwild.

The cloudless sky and shoulder-high shrubs provided no shield from the persistent sun, while the rocks reflected heat and the temperature climbed to ninety-plus degrees F. A fellow traveler, ahead of Prim8, startled a rattlesnake and gave warning. Prim8 thereafter avoided plugging both ears as he listened to his MP3 music player.

Numerous lizards and an occasional rabbit scurried away as Prim8 navigated the winding trail that paid little heed to compass direction.

Feet fatigued, with a blister on each foot, while several small toenails had adopted a purple-black hue, Prim8 reached Lake Morena his first day, twenty miles from the border. His right knee complained of abuse from the excessive and continuous elevation gain and loss.

Prim8 realized that his pace would be impossible to maintain. Thereafter, he would act on common sense and cover distances of fourteen miles-per-day . . . some days of eight-to-ten, more than sufficient progress to warrant satisfaction.

Damn trail designers, he thought. Prim8 suspected that those responsible had taken great satisfaction in creating a trail which traversed, climbed and descended for no other reason than to maximize pain for every hiker that would follow.

Dr. Bobo, Prim8’s resupply/rendezvous buddy—an unheard of luxury for Pacific Crest Trail hikers—scouted camping sites and restaurants by car while Prim8 plodded along the trail towards their next road-crossing rendezvous. And with Dr. Bobo’s support Prim8 mostly hiked along with smaller, lighter loads on a series of “day hikes.” Not only that, Prim8 and Dr. Bobo car camped, consumed instant rice and canned chili—with respective helpings of jalapeno or Peperoncini (peppers)—washed down with cold beer . . . or instead headed for cooked meals, such as pizza or half-pound burgers at nearby eateries.

After the first week, cool breezes, often cold in the higher elevations, reduced Prim8’s perspiration and water consumption during his hikes, while temperatures at night frequented the mid-to-low thirties, and a thin layer of frost covered his sleeping bag or the inside of his tent more than once.

Past Mile 91, Prim8 hiked through drizzle in wet pants and soaked trail shoes, and felt thankful that a breeze didn’t generate a case of hypothermia, even before the rain turned to wet, large clumpy snow.

Day after day, Prim8’s feet and knee suffered from the relentless pounding along the trail, until mid-way, where between Barrel Springs and Warner Springs, the constant foot and knee pain forced a decision: new shoes or a complete halt with surrender.

Prim8 exhibits an offending blister,

cause of significant pain and

consternation.

Dr. Bobo, to the rescue, drove Prim8 to the nearest REI outlet in Encinitas, north of San Diego. While in the area they visited friends. One, a nurse, graciously attended to Prim8's blisters, following a welcomed soak in warm water.

Both Dr. Bobo and Prim8 couldn't pass up an invitation to spend the night before returning to the PCT environs.

New boots, socks and inserts, as well as a knee brace, remedied the advancement of blisters and blackened-toenail loss, and further aggravation of Prim8's right knee. With those problems at bay—ones all too familiar to hikers—and Prim8 sufficiently girded, he soldiered onward in a state of near bliss.

Prim8 and I relax at a campground

near Mount Laguna, our pleasant

disposition a result of new hiking gear

and a cold Guinness.

More than once support by “trail angels,” otherwise complete strangers, along the way provided encouragement through “senseless acts of kindness” with their offers of food, drink and places to pitch a tent or “cowboy camp” (AKA bivouac). Prim8 discovered Mike Herrera’s Place at mile 126.9, where opportunity to camp, cooked meals and cold drinks, including beer, were provided in exchange for voluntary donations.

Each day hikers jockeyed in their overall positions in a continuous stream working their way northward—the season too young for southbound hikers at this latitude—some maintaining a fevered pace, others coping with infirmities or contemplating lizards and ants along the trail. Prim8, overtaken by almost everyone, it seemed, managed to cover similar distances as most other hikers each day, though taking longer.

By the time Prim8 neared Idyllwild, the trail across San Jacinto’s flank had cleared of the four-foot-plus snow-cover reported in April, and so with Dr. Bobo’s assistance, Prim8’s car was re-positioned to a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) parking lot north of Cabazon off Highway I-10, where Prim8 would end his journey at Mile 211.6.

Prim8 took a day off, a “zero day” as hikers say, to avoid strong winds, low temperatures and potential rain on Fuller Ridge. He and Dr. Bobo toured local sites of interest, the General Patton Memorial Museum, where they learned of desert tank training during the early stages of World War II.

Prim8 introduced Dr. Bobo to date shakes at Shields Date Garden in Indio, where they learned about the sex life of a date. Ooh!

The next morning, Dr. Bobo headed home and Prim8, readied for the last miles of his hike, headed up Devil’s Slide Trail from Humber Park in Idyllwild to rejoin the PCT where it flanked San Jacinto Peak at elevations as high as 8,000 feet.

I prepare to hike the

last leg of this adventure.

Though Prim8 had prepared for two nights "on the mountain," he revised his plan after his excellent first morning's progress, and instead opted for a quicker traverse.

Gusting winds on his second day—up to 80 mph by his best estimate—threatened to blow him off his feet, or worse off the trail and down steep slope. Without water to spare, Prim8 continued on, joined a fellow hiker and reached a water faucet at Mile 206, located on an alluvial fan on the northern flank of San Jacinto.

View from San Jacinto Peak northwest

flank across Coachella Valley and

towards my hike's end at Cabazon.

Camped in a dry wash at Mile 207, after a trail-angel couple offered warm chili and a beer at their house—Prim8 could hardly believe their generosity—he prepared to plod the remaining distance to his car across the desert valley, accompanied by his fellow hiker companion.

Feet and right knee complaining as much as ever at the accumulated pounding, Prim8 reached his car late the next morning, eighteen days after his start.

By request, Prim8 dropped off his fellow recent hiker companion at a Post Office in Banning. As Prim8 drove home, perhaps, none the wiser, he considered he might be able to hike the entire trail PCT . . . in due time.

Walk in beauty.