A Few “Lesser Known and Obscure” Facts I Learned While Sailing Across the North Atlantic

Bottom line: Travel feeds your soul, if you let it!

Janet and I pose with Kujalleq

Glacier (left) in Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.

Janet and I recently transited the North Atlantic on a 35-day round-trip "Voyage of the Vikings" ocean cruise, visiting a number of countries along the way. Though the northern climate is notoriously cold, even during summer, we bundled up when on deck or on land. Despite that, the weather was pleasant on a number of days.

Saturday, 7/18 (Boston) – We boarded the Holland America Zuiderdam and sailed away from Boston, along with about 1,800 other passengers.

During the first day of our journey, Janet and I settled into a somewhat evenly paced routine of over-eating at every meal, over-indulging in drinking, and attending available lectures. Daily lecturers and port talks while at sea provided cultural enrichment on varied topics. (I've introduced interesting tidbits in this blog, which are numbered and sprinkled throughout.)

Sunday, 7/19 (Portland, Maine) – Janet and I walked about town on our own. We toured a brown-stone Victorian mansion, called "Victorian Mansion"!

Side view of Victoria

Mansion in Portland, Maine.

The Parlor, I think it's called.

Then, we enjoyed a lobster roll before reboarding the ship!

I'm enjoying a lobster roll at

an outdoor harbor restaurant.

Monday, 7/21 (At Sea) – As is necessary in the North Atlantic, we sailed through fog periodically.

Tuesday, 7/22 (Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I meandered about town. Following a brief rain with a chilly breeze, the sky cleared.

1) Did you know that Nova Scotia is Latin for New Scotland?

We toured the Jost Heritage House Museum. Constructed in 1767, it's one of the oldest structures in town and served as a residence, general store and apothecary shop.

Janet talks with two

docents after our tour.

The Big Fiddle at

Sydney's cruise ship docks.

Wednesday, 7/23 (Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada) – We visited the Railway Society Historic Train site. (Eat your heart out, Sheldon Cooper!) In the town center, we consumed local beer, and toured the Corner Brook Museum and Archives. Along the way, we spotted a local coffee shop with a whimsical name. (I always appreciate a good sense of humor!)

A coffee shop on

the main drag.

2) Fiddlehead Ferns, a fresh food source in the spring, are edible when the shoots are first developing, and are usually fried lightly in oil. (I inquired about their availability on several occasions while in various ports, but learned the season had passed.)

3) The Canadian dollar (coin) is known as a "loonie," for the bird on the backside. The two dollar coin is called a "toonie".

Thursday, 7/24 (Red Bay, Labrador, Canada) – We rode a water taxi across the bay to hike Tracey Hill Trail.

Notorious small black flies, likely outnumber the fishing village population of 142! I can't attest to that, however, since the low temperature that day encouraged the flies to stay home. A local told us that the flies don't bite. Instead, they provide an enthusiastic welcome by swarming about.

Janet, dressed to stay

warm and thwart black flies.

(Red Bay in background)

4) Back in the village, we visited the Right Whale Museum. Right whales were given that name from Basque/Spanish whalers, because they were the "right" whale to hunt, ie. easy to kill, as they were slow moving and floated once dead. And now, as you might expect, they're an endangered species. In the 1500s CE, they were plentiful in Labrador's waters, however.

5) Clarence Birdseye was inspired to create Birds Eye "flash frozen" veggies as a result of the COLD temperatures he experienced in Labrador.

6) The San Juan, a basque whaling ship, sank in 1565 CE near Red Bay. The wreck was rediscovered in 1978 largely intact. Once recovered and examined, it was re-submerged as a preservation strategy. (The cold, oxygen-poor water creates a near sterile environment!)

Friday, 7/25 (At Sea) – Once again, we passed through areas of fog, usually accompanied by smooth sea. Newfoundland and Labrador are "home of Iceberg Alley". I looked for icebergs occasionally, and saw some from miles away.

Iceberg in the Labrador Sea.

Saturday, 7/26 (Paamiut, Greenland) – Settled about 1500 BC, with a current population of 1,500, this village is known for it's colorful houses. Janet and I walked about, and scaled the prominent viewpoint.

Panorama of Paamiut, Greenland.

Our ship, Zuiderdam, from Paamiut's

highest viewpoint. (Note the rock,

rubbed smooth by glaciation, and

kept barren by cold climate and

lack of top soil.)

7) The bedrock of Paamiut is part of the Archaean craton, a Precambrian shield of some of the oldest rocks on Earth. I was struck by the look of the treeless, barren landscape. (And they felt old to me!)

Sunday, 7/27 (Nanortalik, Greenland) – Janet and I walked around the town, though most everything was closed. We surmised that the population of 1,070 didn't think it necessary to welcome us tourists.

8) In the past, the color of a building designated the occupants' function (job), though that holds less true today ... likely.

Panorama of Nanortalik.

Fishing is the locals' sustainable occupation, and whale hunting remains an important activity. Whale blubber provides a useful, and helpful, supplementation to their diet, particularly in winter (about eight months per year).

9) A local informed us that whale blubber causes the body to heat up, which is welcomed in cold weather, while in warm weather causes sweating.

10) Whales are hunted during the winter, and residents, in at least some villages, receive a text message alerting them that a whale has been killed, so that they can share in the harvest.

11) Narwhals, which can live up to 150 years, are veritable unicorns of the sea, have one tusk (widely known), and are otherwise toothless (not so widely known). Occasionally, however, a male will have two tusks. In the Norse language, Narwhal means "corpse swell"!

12) Cod (fish) swim with their mouths open. As omnivores, they scoop up whatever, and are likened to "aquatic Homer Simpsons" (not very bright)! They are a vulnerable species today.

13) Vikings visited, and had temporary settlements, on the North American mainland (Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada) in the 1100s, as per two sagas of "Erik the Red" and "Greenlanders." (That was 500 years before Columbus discovered the Caribbean Islands, the West Indies). As well, Christopher didn't see nor set foot on the mainland!) "Erik the Red" helped settle Greenland and "Leif the Lucky" Erikson (meaning son of Erik) helped settle Labrador (at least temporarily). The Vikings' furthest reach was into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Relics from ruins, dating 1021 CE (Leif Erickson's time), were found in Newfoundland. So, Erik the Red would've been the first European living in Greenland, and thus on the North American continent.

14) Vikings (Norse) knew how to work with iron, as evidenced by the discovery of slag heaps. Their favorite weapons were axes, and their "hardened" iron was much stronger than other European weapons made of brittle "bog iron". (Hardly an even match!)

The captain moved our ship away from the town's dock (Nanortalik) early that evening and anchored us in a more protected wind shadow to avoid swells/waves from strong winds. The ship shuddered throughout the night as side-thrusters worked to maintain an optimal heading. (Wouldn't do to have the ship swing broadside in strong winds, even when at anchor.)

Monday, 7/28 (At Sea, Prince Christian Sound, Greenland) – On an easterly course, we transited the sound, stopping to view the iconic Kujalleq Glacier on the way.

Cruising the Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.

15) Though 80% (eighty) of Greenland is ice/snow covered, "Erik the Red" pulled a marketing con-job by promoting it as "Greenland", presumably doing so in order to attract settlers.

Tuesday, 7/29 (At Sea) – We continued sailing eastward toward Iceland, while Janet and I consumed food and drink to our hearts' content.

Wednesday, 7/30 (Isafjordur, Iceland) – Janet and I explored the town (which wraps around a small harbor) on foot, admired the houses and buildings, climbed to the "Observation Deck", a high point providing a great overview, then visited the Isafjordur Culture House on our way back to the ship.

Panoramic view of Isafjordur

as our cruise ship departs.

16) The Vikings were in Iceland in the 10th and 11th centuries CE. (And the western portion of Iceland rides on the North American tectonic plate! Another argument that they were the first Europeans in North America.)

17) Today's Icelanders speak the same language as the old Norse-Vikings.

Thursday, 7/31 (Akureyri, Iceland) – Janet and I joined a shore excursion through the town and to traditional turf houses. The residents are a friendly bunch as evidenced by their traffic signals.

A stop light in Akureyri, Iceland.

(Look closely for the heart-shaped

stop signal!)

They also have a sense of humor (whimsy) as evidenced by the woolen, knitted trashcan covers provided by one of the local women. (She creates the covers from scrap material with the hope that they will help prevent littering.)

An Akureyri troll waiting

to be fed trash!

18) Original/traditional farm houses were built into hillsides and covered with sod (turf) to maximize heat retention. Farmers sheltered their livestock indoors, though in separate spaces during harsh winter months.

A farm's turf house. (The left

two for people, the right three

for livestock/equipment, with

everything accessed inside,

eliminating exposure to winter

weather.)

Friday, 8/1 (At Sea) – The effects of sea swells on us was minimized as a result of the ship's stabilizers, and though I did observe the ocean conditions periodically, the ship's motions only occasionally drew my attention.

19) Polar bears are classified as marine mammals as they are excellent swimmers and hunt on ice flows (for seals mostly). Though their hair is predominately white (as camouflage, though it may be dirty and look dingy), they have black skin which helps reflect UV radiation.

20) Polar bears caught within the city limits of Churchill, Manitoba, Canada (polar bear capital of the world) are jailed for 30 days, in hopes that they will self-deport when released and never return!

21) The Arctic is the fastest warming region of the world.

22) The Icelandic Walrus is extinct. (For those of you keeping track.)

Saturday, 8/2 (At Sea, Denmark Strait) – As we'd sailed eastward, and set our clocks back, Janet and I experienced "boat lag", necessitating afternoon naps. (Just as tiring as "jet lag", though creeping up as we more slowly moved through time zones.)

23) The 8th-12th centuries CE are considered "the Viking era". Excellent ship builders, the Vikings constructed flexible boats suitable for ocean travel. Yet, with a shallow draft, their boats were suitable for river travel. As a result, the Vikings invaded many areas of Europe, aside from expanding across the North Atlantic and southward into the Mediterranean Sea. They explored (raided) the interior of Europe, reaching deep into Russia. They raided the Lindisfarne Priory, North Umberland, England in 793 CE, and conducted raids throughout France in the 9th and 10th centuries CE.

The extent of Viking

raids and settlements.

24) Popular notions of horns on Viking helmets are false! Their helmets were mostly made of leather or metal. (Each Viking was responsible for their own gear and weapons. Consider the disadvantages of a horned-helmet during hand-to-hand combat!)

25) A Viking's personal appearance equaled status. (As a result, many women in the British Isles preferred them over their local, more disheveled male counterparts! That explains, at least in part, why the genetic background of women in Iceland is predominately Irish.)

Sunday, 8/3 (Eidfjord, Norway) – Idyllic, this small town with a population of 916, invited exploration on foot.

Eidfjord, Norway

from our ship.

Janet and I signed up for a tour to Voringfossen (waterfall). Our originally scheduled tour guide/transportation didn't materialize, however, so we opted for "plan B", which turned out to be less expensive.

Panorama of Voringfossen

(waterfall) near Eidfjord,

Norway.

26) Norway's longest tunnel is 15.3 miles in length. (We traveled through one tunnel to and from the waterfall, though not nearly that long.)

27) Reindeer and lamb burgers are common cuisine. (Open to the idea, I didn't have opportunity to try any, however.)

Monday, 8/4 (At Sea) – We sailed onward, towards Rotterdam, Netherlands. On the occasions when skies were clear and I was looking, the sunsets created gorgeous spectacles.

Sunset in the North Sea,

off Norway.

Tuesday, 8/5 (Rotterdam, Netherlands) – Though quite windy, and with the sky partly cloudy, Janet and I strolled around a small area of Europe's largest sea port, founded in1270 CE and with a current population of 655K. Broad streets and wide canals in this relatively modern city (as many of the older buildings were heavily damaged during WWII), transform walking around into a challenging hike. We walked through Museum Park, then visited the Natural History Museum located there. Before re-boarding our ship, we joined a local canal tour.

A view of central portion

of Rotterdam from it's

main canal. (Note our

cruise ship.)

During our harbor tour, I spotted a most unusual structure. Though I can't identify it's purpose, I surmised it's an oil drilling platform or lays pipeline on the seabed. Regardless, I admired it's structural complexity, which, for me, is elegant. (My engineering, left-brain intrigued.)

Oil drilling platform ...

or deep-sea pipe layer?

Wednesday, 8/6 (At Sea, English Channel) – We sailed toward Ireland via England's southern tip.

28) An important American Civil War Naval battle occurred in Cherbourg Harbor, on the Normandy coast, France, between the CSS Alabama (commerce raider) and USS Kearsarge (sloop-of-war). The Alabama (tasked with disrupting Union shipping from Europe) was out-matched by the Kearsarge (tasked with hunting it down), and was sunk.

Though our days-at-sea generally passed without major excitement, we witnessed an evacuation. Despite the relatively calm sea, the winds were high, necessitating the pilot make multiple attempts to get into a hovering position for a safe transfer of the "patient" from the bow deck. Rumor spread that the victim was a passenger, though that turned out to be a crew member who'd suffered a heart attack. (Was in stable condition at the time of evacuation.)

One of the rescue

chopper's approaches.

Thursday, 8/7 (Dun Laoghaire, Ireland) – Janet and I prearranged a tour of the Guinness Storehouse, which necessitated a 20-min train ride into Dublin. After our tour, I spotted this unusual parking queue of hackneys.

Odd parking scheme

in Dublin!

29) We were informed that Dublin has over one-thousand pubs, though, aside from the Guinness Storehouse, I didn't have time to visit them all.

We did visit this

Dublin pub!

Friday, 8/8 (Greenock, Scotland) – Janet and I met two friends, who live nearby, and that we'd met on a previous cruise. Together, we took the local train in Glasgow for a day's outing.

Janet and I with

friends, Julie & David.

We walked a bit, passing the statue of the Duke of Wellington.

The Duke, adorned with

traffic cones. (A daily prank

courtesy of college students.)

Then, we caught a Ho-Ho bus (Hop On/Hop Off) to see more of the city. We hopped off to have a fantastic lunch, then hopped on again to visit the Museum of Transport. Afterward, we retraced our route to Greenock, then said our goodbyes.

30) The term "Scot free" comes from the lack of a conviction during trial, when "we know you're guilty, but it wasn't proven."

Our ship recrossed the Irish Sea that evening, heading for Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Saturday, 8/9 (Belfast, N. Ireland) – Janet and I joined a "shore excursion" to the Ard Peninsula.

The weather was near perfect. Our tour stopped for a pub drink in Bangor, then we toured the Grey Abbey, founded 1193 CE. At the abbey, we learned about the monks' lives.

Grey Abbey docent in a

traditional monk robe.

31) The abbeys were known by the color of their monks' robes. Hood up meant that the monk wasn't talking! Irish monks grew and used herbs and, as a result in part, lived longer than the general population.

32) Roman soldiers carried small pouches of fennel, a mild stimulant, which helped them stave off hunger when marching.

33) Rabbits were introduced to Ireland by the Normans in the 1100s CE. (In case you were wondering.)

Sunday, 8/10 (At Sea) – Occasionally, we sailed through rougher seas, though their effects on the passengers were dampened by ships' stabilizers.

The North Sea swells

seemed bigger in person,

I swear!

Monday, 8/11 (Djupivogur, Iceland) – Janet and I walked around the town (population of 350), visiting a number of beautiful spots. Along the way we stopped for a singing demonstration inside in an empty fish-liver oil tank.

Acoustics

inside the tank.

34) Icelanders suffer from "sun anxiety," focusing on utilizing sunny days to the greatest degree.

35) The Arctic fox is the only indigenous mammal in Iceland. (In case you've wondered!)

36) Beer was illegal in Iceland before 1989! (As a result of clamor to self-medicate "sun anxiety"?)

37) The term "Killer Whales" comes the Basque, who referred to them as "killer of whales". And the Latin name, Orcinus orca, means "large pod coming from hell". However, they are not whales, instead they are the largest dolphin! Sometimes, killer whales will courteously offer up food to people. (For people monitoring their diets, take caution when consuming whale blubber, as it can contain unsafe levels of pollutants!)

Tuesday, 8/12 (Reykjavik, Iceland) – Janet and I took the Ho-Ho bus tour around town, then returned to our ship.

38) Reykjavik (meaning smokey day from volcanic activity) is the most northern capital city in the world.

Wednesday, 8/13 (Reykjavik, Iceland) – On foot, we visited the Harpa Concert Hall.

A Reykjavik troll.

Then, we visited the National Museum, admiring the houses and buildings, and along the way passing by The Pond (city park).

The Pond in Reykjavik,

Iceland.

I saw this sign while at the National Museum. (Some things you just need to know!)

(Self explanatory!)

That evening a local band performed on board the ship. (They refer to themselves as "Icelandicbandname"on their website. Their name, in Icelandic, contains one letter not in the English alphabet, is difficult to pronounce for English speakers, and as they said, "You wouldn't remember it anyway.")

Icelandicbandname performs

one song a cappella.

And, yes ... a dog does bark in the background! (Someone had a support pooch on board.)

Thursday, 8/14 (Grundarfjordur, Iceland) – Janet and I joined a shore excursion around the western tip of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and National Park. We visited a black sand beach, site of a shipwreck, the iconic black-painted church, and enjoyed lunch in Arnarstapi before returning to the ship.

Kirjufellfoss (waterfall)

with Kirkjufellfoss

(Arrowhead Mountain).

Arnarstapi turf house

become restaurant.

Friday, 8/15 (At Sea, Denmark Strait) – We sailed toward Prince Christian Sound, Greenland.

Iceberg(s) in the Denmark

Strait off Greenland.

39) Minus 69.6 degree C (sixty-nine-and-six-tenths) is the lowest temperature recorded on land!

40) Glaciers cover 10% (ten) of earth's landmass, and the sea level would rise 70 meters (approx. 210 feet), if all of them melted.

Another iceberg in the Denmark

Strait near Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.

Saturday, 8/16 (At Sea, Prince Christian Sound, Greenland) – Our captain informed us of an itinerary change per effects of Hurricane Erin. After our port call in Greenland, we would divert from our St. John's port call, and instead head to Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.

41) The US Army had nuclear aspirations at Camp Century near Thule, Greenland in the 1950s. Constructed within the snow/ice, the camp was abandoned as a result of thawing/melting.

Sunday, 8/17 (Qaqortoq, Greenland) – Though clouds/fog hung low, and a chilly wind blew with a threat of rain looming, Janet and I walked about the town. Most shops were closed and few locals were to be seen.

A bird's eye view of

Qaqortoq, Greenland.

42) Qaqortoq means "white" in Icelandic. (I imagined it would look quite white during the winter!)

Monday and Tuesday, 8/18-8/19 (At Sea, Labrador Sea) – The captain estimated that we transited through sea swells of 2.5-3 meters (8.2-9.8 feet). Once again, the ship's stabilizers minimized the rocking motion.

Wednesday, 8/20 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I walked on our own, visiting the Halifax Public Gardens, stopped at the Peace By Chocolate store where we purchased several bars of their confection.

43) During WWI, a munitions ship exploded in the Halifax channel following a collision.

Thursday, 8/21 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I joined shore excursion to Peggy's Cove. Along the way we passed the children's hospital in Halifax, founded by Izaac Walton Killam. They refer to it as IWK Hospital, rather than Killam Hospital. (Think about it!)

A small portion of

idyllic Peggy's Cove.

Another small view

of Peggy's Cove.

Then, our tour took us to the mass grave of Titanic victims in Halifax.

44) Many of those recovered from the wreck site, 337, though not all, were interred in a mass grave there, simply because they couldn't be identified. (Since then, some have been identified by various means.)

Mass grave for

Titanic victims in Halifax.

After our tour, Janet and I walked the Halifax waterfront a second time, then stopped dockside at the Garrison Brewery for a cold one. Or in my case, a few, since I enjoyed a beer flight. (Had to!)

My beer flight at the Garrision

Brewery. (I liked the taste, and humor,

of the"Oh My Gourd" ale on the right,

which had a pumpkin/all-spice flavor.)

After we'd sailed away from Halifax, we were treated to another gorgeous sunset at sea.

Alpenglow of

a sunset at sea.

Friday, 8/22 (At Sea, Atlantic Ocean) – Our travel toward Boston was relatively smooth, as the captain has successfully skirted the worse of Hurricane Erin's effects, though it was miles away.

I attended a lecture regarding privateers during the American Revolution.

45) George Washington was a privateer (as opposed to pirate). Privateers operated with a Letter of Marque, which meant that they were sanctioned by a government to attack and raid only the "identified enemy", with a portion of the loot going to the sanctioning government. Whereas, pirates rob everybody. The loot from privateering was the only funding source to fight the American War of Independence. Privateers could be easily recruited with the inducement to get rich quick, and captured ships became privateer vessels.

46) Approximately 25K privateers died on British Prison ships in New York harbor, more than those who died in land battles.

47) Eye patches, a common pirate meme, derives from the strategy to maintain/preserve night vision for the covered eye, when vision would be needed instantly when going below deck (a dark environment) during battle. (Not worn due to loss of an eye!)

48) Ben Franklin was heavily engaged in providing Letters of Marque to European ships, particularly French, in hopes that the English would be threatened by potential war with France and give up the fight in America.

49) At the time of the Boston Tea Party, tea was as valuable as gold. As a result, people kept their tea in locked chests. The Tea Party dumped more than $2M of tea in today's value.

Saturday, 8/23 (Boston) – We disembarked the ship early, then toured a portion on the city by bus on our way to Logan airport. While at Quincy Market, we enjoyed a couple slices of pie (pizza) and beer.

Me posing with The

Lobsta at Quincy Market.

I remain grateful that traveling widens my world view, and brings me great pleasure and spiritual renewal.

Enjoy your travels and walk in beauty.

A Few “Lesser Known and Obscure” Facts I Learned While Visiting Alaska

Bottom line: Traveling is always about experiencing something new!

Janet and I pose as our cruise ship leaves Vancouver, BC.

Janet and I recently cruised the Inside Passage, then visited a small portion of Alaska’s interior. Though the climate there is notorious for cloudy weather (and rain), we had good fortune. Most days the sky was clear or only partly cloudy, while the temperatures hovered in the mid-fifties, though had climbed to the mid-seventies in Fairbanks.

Sunday – We passengers, 2262 in all, boarded Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam in Vancouver, BC, joining the 864, or so, crew. (Visiting entertainers and musicians are considered crew, though they come and go at different ports.)

Monday – Janet and I settled into a hectic self-imposed routine of eat, drink and attend lectures during our first "sea day." Challenged to avoid over-indulgence, we managed a slight degree of restraint. Daily lecturers onboard, and comments as we toured by bus, provided cultural enrichment. (Interesting tidbits are numbered and sprinkled throughout this blog.)

1) Sea life abounds in colder waters. The temperatures allow the water to hold more saturated oxygen, hence, a more diverse ecosystem, e.g. more plankton resulting in whale migrations.

Tuesday – Our ship docked at our first port, Ketchikan, Alaska's most southern city.

2) Ketchikan is located on an island, and is not connected by bridge to the mainland, or the US road system.

3) Some “streets” are mere wooden walkways and staircases, as there were no motorized vehicles present when the city was originally developing.

A narrow, wooden staircase

"street" in Ketchikan.

4) The iconic “scream” of the Bald Eagle in American film is actually the call of a red-tailed hawk. Bald eagles don’t have a fierce or shrill call, which wasn't considered dramatic enough, apparently. That's Hollywood for ya'.

We visited the Totem Bight State Park, where we learned about the native Alaskan practice of carving totem poles for storytelling, clan identification, and shaming stingy neighbors.

5) The poles tell stories (such as of the creation) as the native Alaskans had no written language. The poles didn't serve as idols for worship, however.

Two "older" totems and clan markings on

the buildings at Totem Bight State Park .

Totem at downtown Ketchikan waterfront.

6) Having a pole carved today could cost $5K-10K per foot!

Janet and I visited the Red Dog Saloon, where we each enjoyed a “Duck Fart,” a delicious shot of a three-liquor combo. (Don’t ask me which liquors, however.)

Janet poses before we consumed our Duck Farts.

Wednesday – By bus from Juneau, we visited Mendenhall Glacier. Though we kept our eyes open for bears, we saw none.

Mendenhall Glacier near Juneau, Alaska.

7) Yesteryear lumberjacks built floating houses (even “cities”) in order to move to various logging sites along the coast or harbors.

8) Alaska’s capital is located on Juneau Island–D’you know the capital of Alaska?–and isn’t connected by road to the mainland.

9) The island has two horse crossing signs, but no horses. The climate is not conducive to maintaining horses year-round, as they develop weather related illnesses. So, the horses that had been there were removed, though the signs were left behind.

10) There are almost as many bald eagles (30K) as humans (35K) on Juneau Island.

Thursday – From Skagway (“Gateway to the Klondike” gold fields) we rode by bus into Canada and to the high plateau just beyond White Horse Pass, over which many gold rushers traversed on their way to the Yukon.

11) The gold rushers were forced by Canadian authorities to trek one ton of supplies with them. That requirement necessitated several trips, and/or use of pack animals, to carry sufficient supplies over the pass, an arduous trek, even without gear. In addition, due to rocky terrain, where legs could easily get broken, it proved easier to portage through snow during the winter. As a result of the hazards, including mistreatment from their handlers, some 3,000 horses died making the trip through the pass, earning it the nickname "Dead Horse Trail."

12) Few gold rushers became wealthy, and tens-of-thousands died during the Klondike Gold Rush, though exact numbers are unknown.

13) As lucrative, even more so, than heading into the backcountry for gold, many people, such as the case in Skagway, went to Alaska to “mine” the gold rushers, e.g. saloon/hotel operators, prostitutes and purveyors.

14) We visited the original cemetery where a number of notable Skagway characters were buried ... and appear to remain so. I took note of several comments on a cemetery sign. (Read the first lines for Frank Reid and Ella Wilson.)

Sign at the first Skagway cemetery.

15) Skagway got electricity before Manhattan!

Janet and I visited the Red Onion Saloon (originally serving as a brothel, as well), where we enjoyed “Reindeer Farts,” (another three-combo liquor shot, though different than the Duck Fart). Again, I don’t know what they were made of, though mine tasted great.

Janet poses at the Red Onion Saloon.

Friday – In clear weather, we sailed into Glacier Bay and cruised to Margerie Glacier at the bay's head.

Margerie Glacier.

16) Alaska has more glaciers than anywhere else in the world!

Saturday – We proceeded to College Fjord. Clear weather continuing, we cruised to the head of the fjord and observed some “minor” calving from Harvard Glacier.

Harvard Glacier from our ship.

Sunday – Our ship docked in Whittier. We disembarked, and boarded a bus for Anchorage. On the way there, we stopped at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, which rehabilitates rescued Alaskan animals.

Two bears observed from

a safe viewing platform.

17) Porcupines are phenomenal tree climbers, though poor at remaining perched. Warning: always check before standing under a tree, least you get impaled by a falling porcupine.

In Anchorage, Alaska’s most populous city, Janet and I strolled a short distance from our hotel to Ship Creek, in a quest to spot spawning salmon, though saw none. Along the way, we enjoyed ice cream at Wild Scoops , then passed the train depot.

Monday – We headed around Turnagain Arm by bus for a look at Cook’s Bay (Yes, that Captain Cook!) and distant view of downtown Anchorage.

18) Cook’s Bay doesn’t have deep water. Large portions of the bay turn to mudflats during low tide, and the fine silt in the bay (about the consistency of baby powder) has been estimated to be 90 feet deep or more. Dredging efforts produce only temporary results.

Cook's Bay mudflats and downtown Anchorage.

On our return into downtown Anchorage, we visited the Alaska Native Heritage Center, where we examined artifacts of traditional tribal Alaskan life.

19) One in five Alaskans have pilot’s licenses. (Bush planes being the primary transportation mode.)

20) It’s illegal to drop moose from planes ... or their droppings. (Okay, I realize this needs some explanation.) At one point, some people, otherwise bored, and with a surplus of moose poo about, would bet on how close to a target they can get moose droppings ... and perhaps a moose occasionally. Hence ... the current law.

That evening, thrilled about, and wanting to take advantage of our two-room hotel suite, Janet and I decided to take cocktails to our room from the hotel bar, Fletcher’s. However, we were informed that would require a hotel security escort. Though Janet was somewhat reluctant, I was all in. Why not? (In the end, our security guard carried our drinks, and we weren’t required to be hand-cuffed!) Though I initially speculated that the hotel didn’t want us to steal their glasses, I concluded that the hotel wanted no liability in serving alcohol that could be carried onto the streets of Anchorage.

Tuesday – We boarded the train for Denali National Park, taking seats in an observation car. On our journey north, we were served lunch.

Glimpse of Denali, 20,310 feet tall, from the train.

21) We passed a line of telegraph poles (protected historical monuments) aside the highway. Some years after the telegraph went the way of the dodo in Alaska, the copper wires were removed, though the poles were left standing. Some citizens thought it unnecessary to pay for their removal, and also thought that they were of some historical value. So, today those poles are like totems … left untouched on purpose, to fall and decay at will.

A "historic monument" telegraph

pole along the highway.

Wednesday – Following our first night's stay at the Holland America Denali Lodge, we were taken on the Denali Natural History Tour, riding by park bus along a portion of the one maintained road. Again, though we scanned the terrain for large animals, such as moose and bear, our efforts were fruitless. Two moose were spotted a a great distance, though they were difficult to see without binoculars. I did see a mated-pair of ptarmigan with several chicks foraging just off the road.

22) Largest of the US National Parks, Denali was established to protect Dall Sheep, the only park established for the purpose of protecting animals.

That evening, Janet and I enjoyed a great meal at the Denali Lodge.

Janet shows off her order of crab cakes, while I

ogle my order of Canadian candied bacon.

(Appetizers, mind you!)

Thursday – We boarded a bus for our transfer to Fairbanks, farther north.

23) “Frost heave,” quite noticeable and a result of permafrost thawing and refreezing, creates a roller coaster effect along portions of the highways.

24) Forest fires are common in Alaska, a natural and necessary process for forest regeneration, e.g. spruce trees require fire to release seeds from their cones. We were required to wait about 20 minutes near one such fire (though we saw no evidence of flames, nor smoke) where the road traffic was escorted and limited to one direction of travel at a time. As I understood the explanation, aspen trees have extensive root systems which can burn/smolder underground for some time, despite the absence of flame above ground. As a result, another outbreak of fire can occur later.

Friday – We visited a portion of the famed Alaska pipeline on the outskirts of Fairbanks.

25) Completed in 1977, it’s still working well, despite an expected lifespan of 20 years. “Pigs” keep the pipe’s inside cleared and the oil flowing. As the pigs move along, they sound like the squeaking and scrapping when glass is cleaned … or so we were told.

Display of a "pig" in a pipeline.

(Note the original spelling of Alaska.)

Following a short walk and train ride, we visited the nearby Dredge 8, the one remaining river dredge maintained for viewing. I imagined the dredge's operation an odd sight, indeed, only requiring enough water to float, as it backfilled its way along.

Dredge 8, in situ.

There, everyone received a fist-sized "grub bag" (sample of alluvial debris) and taught how to pan for gold. My sample yielded $18 worth of gold specks and Janet’s produced $12. What a haul! But it was easy to see how mere small amounts of the glittery yellow mineral could generate a stampede.

From there, we lunched at the Riverboat Discovery dock near the Fairbanks airport, then boarded the paddle-wheeler, Discovery III, for a short ride down the Chena River.

Along the way, our boat paused so we could watch a dog sled demonstration at Trail Breaker Kennel, currently run by Susan Butcher’s daughter.

A demonstration of dog sledding

performed by the daughter of Susan

Butcher. (Note: Susan was a four

time Iditarod winner.)

26) The famed Iditarod Dog Sled Race stems from the need to deliver diphtheria medication to treat an outbreak in Nome in 1925, as there was no other option. Fewer people have finished that race than have climbed Mt. Everest. Generally, there are 26 or 27 checkpoints (depending upon the route selected), and situated 30 to 80 miles apart, over the race length of 1,100+ miles. The sled dogs, huskies, are generally “trotted” at 9 miles per hour, a sustainable speed for them.

The paddle-wheeler continued downstream to the junction with the Tanana River, where we turned upstream.

On our boat's return to the dock, we stopped at the Chena Village Living Museum for several more demonstrations.

Modeling a traditional Alaskan native

dress made of various animal furs.

We learned about about native Alaskan

life and indigenous animal furs.

Saturday – Our trip ending, Janet and I headed to the airport.

Though disappointed about not seeing bears and moose in the wild, or running salmon, during the land potion of our trip, Janet and I wre thankful of the pleasant weather … and the absence of mosquito hordes. Moreover, we took pleasure in availing ourselves of food, drink and the entertainment/lectures on board the cruise ship.

I remain grateful that traveling widens my world view, and brings me great pleasure and spiritual renewal.

Walk in beauty.

Carry On, Prim8 (PCT)

Bottom line: Into every life, some wind must blow!

Patches of wildflowers frequently decorated the trail, here in full sun earlier in the day. Photo - courtesy Tallow.

5.16.25, Day 0

Mark R. (Tallow, that is) and I rendezvoused in Idyllwild, CA. in preparation for a hike from Fobes Ranch Trail Junction (Saddle) (PCT mile marker 166.5) to Highway 74 trail junction (near Paradise Valley Cafe)(PCT mile marker 151.9).

After dinner, Tallow retired to his motel room in Idyllwild, while I drove south and camped out at the PCT Junction with Hwy 74 parking lot.

5.17.25, Day 1 ... and done, “Day of the Wind” -

The next morning, Tallow picked me up at the parking lot, where I left my car. We had breakfast at the Paradise Valley Cafe, then proceeded up the rutted unpaved road to the Fobes Ranch Trail. Near 10 AM, we left Tallow's car.

We'd planned for an overnight on the PCT and would determine our camp location according to our hiking progress.

Though our hike started in full sun, wisps of clouds with a light breeze helped keep us cool. With steady progress up the two-mile trail, we arrived at the PCT junction within an hour.

On the PCT proper, we were starting the last leg of my "previously unhiked section" between the Hwy 74 Junction and Saddle Junction (near Idyllwild). I'd missed this portion of the trail when NOBO (northbound) in 2017, due to trail "fire" closure. In addition, this hike would complete the section, Tallow and I abandoned during our August 2023 trip when remnants of Hurricane Hillary threatened the area.

Prim8 points the way south on the PCT a short distance from Fobes Ranch Trail Junction (mile marker 166.5).

Though the elevation gain of 950 feet to the first, and our day's, high point, provided some slow going, we moved along at a steady pace. The temperature hovered around the mid-fifties, and the occasional westerly wind gusts chilled us when the trail ran along the western side of the ridges (windward). However, we appreciated remaining cool and perspiration free, relatively speaking.

We were treated to great views when the trail crossed a ridge, or ran along it.

Dust obscures the view of Coachella Valley.

Wind speeds gradually increased, particularly on the ridges and when the trail led us to windward side of the mountains. And since the trail's conditions on the eastern sides (leeward) were more pleasant, we began to anticipate those calmer, and warmer, stretches.

We continued steadily at approximately 2 mph, which we considered quite a good pace. My legs, particularly knees, were holding up well. And when Tallow periodically checked on my condition, inquiring of my opinion about continuing on, I gave him a thumbs up.

With short rest breaks in wind-shadowed spots in order to consume water and snacks , we continued on, noticing the wind gusts growing stronger at each successful ridge and the exposed windward segments. At one point, we joked about the wind gusting to 40-45 mph.

Conditions gradually grew less pleasant with the sun increasingly obscured by clouds and the wind speed increasing. Coming to one ridge crest (perhaps 6,000 to 6,800 feet elevation), Tallow and I had difficulty avoiding being blown over. I imagined my backpack acting somewhat as a wind sail, as I swayed in the gusts. I eyed the fist-sized rocks strewn along the trail and worked to avoid a misstep onto an unsteady rock. Exchanging yells, though only a dozen feet apart, we estimated the wind speed at 70mph. (Wanting to get to the next wind-protected place along the trail, I didn't check our position.) Once out of the wind blast, I told Tallow, "That was treacherous! A wind gust could throw you off balance, cause you to step on an unsteady rock, and then you could sprain an ankle or fall and break your leg."

Our conversation shifted to completing our hike in one day, thus avoiding these weather conditions, or worse, with an overnight on the trail. We hadn't expected foul weather, but knew the temperature would drop further. Issue settled, we'd continue to my car, as possible, with rest breaks, as required.

Per usual, Prim8 complained as we hiked. His protestations grew louder and more persistent throughout the day, coming to a crescendo during the last few miles as calf muscles, knees, feet, and lower back increasingly ached. To be expected, I was dog tired after a seventeen-mile hike in one day, while carrying a twenty-five-pound backpack, and as the trail undulated, alternating between gaining 2,945 feet and dropping 3,230 feet, cumulatively. Our nine-hour hike to my car seemed to take forever. However, though I couldn't fully appreciate the fact at the time, I escaped the development of foot blisters! Yeah!

Prim8 rejoices when he arrives at his car. Note: the haze created by low lying "clouds."

So, Prim8 and I have hiked "on" the PCT—fire closure detour notwithstanding—from the Mexican border (mile marker 0) to PCT junction with Horseshoe Meadow (mile marker 751.4)

Tallow and I are planning our next segment, continuing NOBO (northbound) from Horseshoe Meadow to Bishop Pass.

Walk in beauty.