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You don’t have to save me, you

just have to hold my hand

while I save myself.
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As a freelance writer of creative nonfiction, I write to inspire hope for those struggling to heal from trauma. Thanks for reading my posts. If you'd like to read my archived blog posts, use this link.

Bottom line: Getting back to your roots can be a spiritual experience!


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Sunset from Hwange

National Park, Zimbabwe.


Janet and I recently joined a Smithsonian Journey to South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana, places we'd never been. Though a short trip in duration, our itinerary kept us busy as beavers, and we were filled with great memories of encounters with a wide spectrum of wild animals ... up close, that is. In addition, we were treated to three lectures by Dr. Robert Schrire about South Africa's apartheid past, it's current political environment and potential future. And, it should go without saying, we took necessary precautions against illnesses, for example by dosing ourselves with a generic version of malarone to ward off malaria.


Thursday, Oct 2 (Cape Town, South Africa) – We spent a "free day" before our tour activities began in earnest by touring several nearby wineries.


Friday, Oct 3 (Cape Town) – After an orientation meeting, we toured the peninsula south of South Africa's "mother city".


1) Cape Town was originally establish in 1652 as a "rest and resupply stop" by the Dutch for ships rounding Africa's southern cape.


2) The Chinese were visiting and charting that shorelines as early as 1421!


3) Along our drive, we learned that one of the local wines is named "Splattered Toad", originating from toad road kill, a result of migrating creatures crossing roads during egg-laying season.


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The tip of the Cape of Good Hope.


4) Originally named Cape of Storms by Bartolomeu Dias in 1488, the cape was renamed by King John II of Portugal in order to encourage the poor wretches rounding Africa on the ships.


5) Ironically, the Cape of Good Hope is not the most southern tip of Africa. Cape Agulhas, east and 34 miles farther south, owns that distinction, and many ships mistook the Bay of False Hope as their route of passage to Europe.


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False Bay (distant left) and Cape

of Good Hope (below the right peaklet).


6) South Africa has eleven official languages, respecting the various tribes and subsequent immigrants, such as the Dutch descendant Afrikaners, and the English. Remember the Boer War between England and the Dutch settlers? (Though apparently, there were two!)


Headed back to Cape Town via the western side of False Bay, we stopped at Boulders Beach to view a colony of African Penguins.


One of the many penguins at the

colony approaches viewers without

concern. (BTW, that's sand, not snow!)


Saturday, Oct 4 (Cape Town) – We headed to Robben Island via ferry from Cape Town Harbor.


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Cape Town Harbor

and Table Mountain.


We toured Robben Island, used as a prison location and leper colony off and on from1683. A former political prisoner provided us a guided tour of the facility, including Nelson Mandela's cell.


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Nelson Mandela's cell.


After returning to Cape Town, clouds obscured Table Mountain, so we drove to adjacent Devil's Peak, though clouds hampered panoramic views from there, as well.


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A portion of Cape Town from the

flank of Devil's Peak. (Our hotel,

pink, is roughly centered.)


Sunday, Oct 5 through Tuesday, Oct 7 (Kapama Private Game Reserve) – We flew to tiny Hoedspruit airport near Kapama Private Game Preserve. And, while staying at the lodge, we were treated two "Game Drives" daily, several hours each morning and each evening. And, we started living an African wild-game National Geographic documentary, rather than watching one on TV!


Riding in specially adapted jeeps during our six Game Drives, we witnessed a multitude of animals.


7) We were warned to remain seated (as well, by no means leave the vehicle), and if we didn't yell or make wild gestures, the animals would consider us as part of the jeep ... and, that the animals, having never been threatened or harmed in association to the jeeps, would not react with alarm or fear. And, so it was!


A stately male Cape Buffalo.


A leopard!


Family herds commingle at a waterhole.


A male lion heads for a snack.


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Same lion snacks on a giraffe.


Hippos in their element.


8) Except to eat, hippos do almost everything in the water, where they keep cool, and protected from predators and the sun's harsh UV-rays.


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Warthogs, eating what?


I couldn't determine what they were so interested in!


Several giraffes, in no hurry.


11) Giraffes browse on the straight thorns of Acacia trees, which are modified leaves. (We were warned not to feed a giraffe as the tongue could rip the skin from your hand!)


12) Giraffes have the highest blood pressure of land animals ... 220/180 mmHg when standing, but can rise to 330/200 mmHg when drinking water. Gotta move that blood up and down a long neck!


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A Red Hornbill.


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Vervet Monkey with baby perches

on the roof of our resort lodge.


We saw no African wild dogs, though they do roam into the preserve as they have an expansive range. As well, they are the rarest (most endangered) of the land animals there.


13) Though not the fastest of land animals, reaching a speed of 70 kph (43.5 mph), wild dogs have considerable endurance and tire their prey prior to attack, figeratively running them into the ground.


Though we didn't see the termites, their mounds are indeed impressive.


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Active colony termite mound.


14) Termite queens can live up to 50 (fifty) years!


Wednesday, Oct 8 (Johannesburg) – After flying to Johannesburg, we drove to an impoverished township Kliptown, located in Soweto (short for South Western Townships). On the way to Kliptown, we stopped for lunch, where I enjoyed a locally brewed beer.


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Houses in Kliptown (Soweto).


Then, we were driven to Pretoria for an overnight stay, originally to board the Rovos Rail train the following morning. That plan got "derailed", however, as a train mishap along the line blocked the track. (More on this later.)


Thursday, Oct 9 (Pretoria) – After our overnight in Pretoria, we visited the Rovos Rail Station.


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Panorama of the Rovos Rail "Capital

Park Station" (Maintenance Yard far left).


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Johan Vos, owner of Rovos Rail, gives

us a tour of the Maintenance Yard.


He explained that he purchases dilapidated train cars and refurbishes them in the style of former luxury-travel glory-days. Following our guided tour, we had lunch at the station. Then, we boarded buses, rather than the train, and were driven to Louis Trichardt, some 234 miles "up the line" in order to by-pass the blocked rail section.


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Janet and I ready to board

the train in Louis Trichardt.


Our original compartment, more of a cubicle, would've likely resulted in "murder on the Rovos Express", as Janet and I later joked to others ... and, as luck had it, we upgraded to a larger compartment.


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Janet in our compartment upgrade.


We settled in for our three-day train ride, rocking and rolling, as well as jerking forward and backward without prior notice, when the train stopped and started. Such are the joys of train travel in some parts of the world! Regardless, we soaked in the train's Victorian/Edwardian ambience of luxury as best we could.


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The more regal of the two dining cars.


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Janet poses in the

Observation Car (aka bar).


Friday, Oct 10 (Rovos Rail) – The train rumbled along as we crossed the border into Zimbabwe, near Beitbridge,


15) then traveled one of the longest straight stretches of track in the world, 114 km (71 miles).


Saturday, Oct 11 (Rovos Rail) – Our train stopped at Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe, and we enjoyed another Game Drive, observing more animals.


An infant baboon tentatively

explores the world.


Grazing Wildebeest.


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Jackal. On the hunt?


Two Zebra leave the waterhole.


After our Game Drive, we re-boarded the train for Victoria Falls ... and, sometime in the night, I developed a case of "Montzuma's revenge"!


Sunday, Oct 12 (Victoria Falls) – We disembarked the train at Victoria Falls Station, and checked into our hotel. I informed our tour guide, Tina, of my malady. She suggested the cause was a side-effect of my malarone medication, and gave me several carbon pills to take, which I did. (Janet had similair symptoms, though I'll not ellaborate further!)


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The Rovos train awaits it's next

passengers at Victoria Falls

Station across from our hotel.


Though feeling weak from lose of body fluids and sleep, I soldiered onward as we took a walking tour of nearby Victoria Falls, which provided us gorgeous views.


15) The falls borders Zambia and Zimbabwe,


16) and is just over a mile wide when the Zambezi River flows in abundance.


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The falls from the Zimbabwe

side at the end the drier season.


Monday, Oct 13 (Chobe National Park, Botswana) – Feeling much better, I'd once again prevailed over Montezuma. By bus, we were driven to the border check point, then walked through "no-man's land" into Botswana. In Chobe National Park, we climbed into a jeep for another Game Drive, then later boarded a boat for a ride on the Chobe River to see the wildlife from a diiferent perspective.


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A "journey" of giraffes

cross a Game Drive road.


17) Our game driver told us when stationary, they're referred to as a "tower"!


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The Chobe River from

our Game Drive jeep.


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A "committee, venue, or volt"

of vultures. (Take your pick!)


I prefer committee. Maybe, it's my suspicious nature, but I think they were conspiring!


18) If those vultures were eating, they'd be called a "kettle"! (Who thought that up?)


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A male African Sable (antelope).


I always thought sables were smaller furry things! Aside from that, we saw animals I'd not previously heard of, such as Kudu, Tsessebe, Puli and Red Lechwe (all ungulates), not to mention the numerous winged critters.


Tsessebe headed away from the river.


19) We were informed that Tsessebe are among the fastest land animals, reaching speeds up to 56 mph, as opposed to cheetahs at 70 mph.


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Guinea Fowl (aka Chobe Chicken).


Our game driver told us Chobe Chickens are tougher and not as tasty as our more common American tamed fowl of that name. (I took his word for it!)


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A male Kudu checks us out.

(Impalas graze behind him.)


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An Openbill Stork (African

variety) looks for a meal.


Chobe National Park proved to be a birder's paradise. I couldn't keep up with all the names of the birds we saw, much less snap photos of them.


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An elephant snorkels across the Chobe

River in search of greener pastures.


We spotted two hippos grazing in the morning, which they sometimes do in order to beat the other grazers to the best stuff. Competition, you know!


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Two grazers, unconcerned

about our presence, munch away.


20) Hippos graze on short grass,


21) can travel up to 6 (six) miles per outing,


22) and, with tusks instead of smaller teeth, they use their specially adapted lower lip to graze.


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A mother crocodile guards

her egg nest on a small island

created by the Chobe River.


Soon after I captured this photo, another boat approached her to within several feet, and she didn't flinch! Our boat guide said she wouldn't move unless her eggs were threatened.


After our day's excursions, we were treated to local entertainment during dinner at our hotel.


Our evening's dinner entertainment

at Victoria Falls Hotel.


Tuesday, Oct 14 (Homeward bound) – Our African safaris come to a close, we flew to Johannesburg, then home via Dubai, arriving early evening Wednesday our local time.


I thoroughly enjoyed our safari adventures in Africa, found them informative, enlightening and enriching. I'd recommend travel there to anyone, particularly near the end of the dry season. (Hint: fewer mosquitoes and less tree leaves to obstruct spotting animals.)

May you enjoy your adventures and walk in beauty.


 
 

Bottom line: Travel feeds your soul, if you let it!


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Janet and I pose with Kujalleq

Glacier (left) in Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.


Janet and I recently transited the North Atlantic on a 35-day round-trip "Voyage of the Vikings" ocean cruise, visiting a number of countries along the way. Though the northern climate is notoriously cold, even during summer, we bundled up when on deck or on land. Despite that, the weather was pleasant on a number of days.


Saturday, 7/18 (Boston) – We boarded the Holland America Zuiderdam and sailed away from Boston, along with about 1,800 other passengers.


During the first day of our journey, Janet and I settled into a somewhat evenly paced routine of over-eating at every meal, over-indulging in drinking, and attending available lectures. Daily lecturers and port talks while at sea provided cultural enrichment on varied topics. (I've introduced interesting tidbits in this blog, which are numbered and sprinkled throughout.)


Sunday, 7/19 (Portland, Maine) – Janet and I walked about town on our own. We toured a brown-stone Victorian mansion, called "Victorian Mansion"!


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Side view of Victoria

Mansion in Portland, Maine.


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The Parlor, I think it's called.


Then, we enjoyed a lobster roll before reboarding the ship!


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I'm enjoying a lobster roll at

an outdoor harbor restaurant.


Monday, 7/21 (At Sea) – As is necessary in the North Atlantic, we sailed through fog periodically.


Tuesday, 7/22 (Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I meandered about town. Following a brief rain with a chilly breeze, the sky cleared.


1) Did you know that Nova Scotia is Latin for New Scotland?


We toured the Jost Heritage House Museum. Constructed in 1767, it's one of the oldest structures in town and served as a residence, general store and apothecary shop.


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Janet talks with two

docents after our tour.


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The Big Fiddle at

Sydney's cruise ship docks.


Wednesday, 7/23 (Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada) – We visited the Railway Society Historic Train site. (Eat your heart out, Sheldon Cooper!) In the town center, we consumed local beer, and toured the Corner Brook Museum and Archives. Along the way, we spotted a local coffee shop with a whimsical name. (I always appreciate a good sense of humor!)


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A coffee shop on

the main drag.


2) Fiddlehead Ferns, a fresh food source in the spring, are edible when the shoots are first developing, and are usually fried lightly in oil. (I inquired about their availability on several occasions while in various ports, but learned the season had passed.)


3) The Canadian dollar (coin) is known as a "loonie," for the bird on the backside. The two dollar coin is called a "toonie".


Thursday, 7/24 (Red Bay, Labrador, Canada) – We rode a water taxi across the bay to hike Tracey Hill Trail.


Notorious small black flies, likely outnumber the fishing village population of 142! I can't attest to that, however, since the low temperature that day encouraged the flies to stay home. A local told us that the flies don't bite. Instead, they provide an enthusiastic welcome by swarming about.


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Janet, dressed to stay

warm and thwart black flies.

(Red Bay in background)


4) Back in the village, we visited the Right Whale Museum. Right whales were given that name from Basque/Spanish whalers, because they were the "right" whale to hunt, ie. easy to kill, as they were slow moving and floated once dead. And now, as you might expect, they're an endangered species. In the 1500s CE, they were plentiful in Labrador's waters, however.


5) Clarence Birdseye was inspired to create Birds Eye "flash frozen" veggies as a result of the COLD temperatures he experienced in Labrador.


6) The San Juan, a basque whaling ship, sank in 1565 CE near Red Bay. The wreck was rediscovered in 1978 largely intact. Once recovered and examined, it was re-submerged as a preservation strategy. (The cold, oxygen-poor water creates a near sterile environment!)


Friday, 7/25 (At Sea) – Once again, we passed through areas of fog, usually accompanied by smooth sea. Newfoundland and Labrador are "home of Iceberg Alley". I looked for icebergs occasionally, and saw some from miles away.


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Iceberg in the Labrador Sea.


Saturday, 7/26 (Paamiut, Greenland) – Settled about 1500 BC, with a current population of 1,500, this village is known for it's colorful houses. Janet and I walked about, and scaled the prominent viewpoint.


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Panorama of Paamiut, Greenland.


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Our ship, Zuiderdam, from Paamiut's

highest viewpoint. (Note the rock,

rubbed smooth by glaciation, and

kept barren by cold climate and

lack of top soil.)


7) The bedrock of Paamiut is part of the Archaean craton, a Precambrian shield of some of the oldest rocks on Earth. I was struck by the look of the treeless, barren landscape. (And they felt old to me!)


Sunday, 7/27 (Nanortalik, Greenland) – Janet and I walked around the town, though most everything was closed. We surmised that the population of 1,070 didn't think it necessary to welcome us tourists.


8) In the past, the color of a building designated the occupants' function (job), though that holds less true today ... likely.


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Panorama of Nanortalik.


Fishing is the locals' sustainable occupation, and whale hunting remains an important activity. Whale blubber provides a useful, and helpful, supplementation to their diet, particularly in winter (about eight months per year).


9) A local informed us that whale blubber causes the body to heat up, which is welcomed in cold weather, while in warm weather causes sweating.


10) Whales are hunted during the winter, and residents, in at least some villages, receive a text message alerting them that a whale has been killed, so that they can share in the harvest.


11) Narwhals, which can live up to 150 years, are veritable unicorns of the sea, have one tusk (widely known), and are otherwise toothless (not so widely known). Occasionally, however, a male will have two tusks. In the Norse language, Narwhal means "corpse swell"!


12) Cod (fish) swim with their mouths open. As omnivores, they scoop up whatever, and are likened to "aquatic Homer Simpsons" (not very bright)! They are a vulnerable species today.


13) Vikings visited, and had temporary settlements, on the North American mainland (Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada) in the 1100s, as per two sagas of "Erik the Red" and "Greenlanders." (That was 500 years before Columbus discovered the Caribbean Islands, the West Indies). As well, Christopher didn't see nor set foot on the mainland!) "Erik the Red" helped settle Greenland and "Leif the Lucky" Erikson (meaning son of Erik) helped settle Labrador (at least temporarily). The Vikings' furthest reach was into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Relics from ruins, dating 1021 CE (Leif Erickson's time), were found in Newfoundland. So, Erik the Red would've been the first European living in Greenland, and thus on the North American continent.


14) Vikings (Norse) knew how to work with iron, as evidenced by the discovery of slag heaps. Their favorite weapons were axes, and their "hardened" iron was much stronger than other European weapons made of brittle "bog iron". (Hardly an even match!)


The captain moved our ship away from the town's dock (Nanortalik) early that evening and anchored us in a more protected wind shadow to avoid swells/waves from strong winds. The ship shuddered throughout the night as side-thrusters worked to maintain an optimal heading. (Wouldn't do to have the ship swing broadside in strong winds, even when at anchor.)


Monday, 7/28 (At Sea, Prince Christian Sound, Greenland) – On an easterly course, we transited the sound, stopping to view the iconic Kujalleq Glacier on the way.



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Cruising the Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.


15) Though 80% (eighty) of Greenland is ice/snow covered, "Erik the Red" pulled a marketing con-job by promoting it as "Greenland", presumably doing so in order to attract settlers.


Tuesday, 7/29 (At Sea) – We continued sailing eastward toward Iceland, while Janet and I consumed food and drink to our hearts' content.


Wednesday, 7/30 (Isafjordur, Iceland) – Janet and I explored the town (which wraps around a small harbor) on foot, admired the houses and buildings, climbed to the "Observation Deck", a high point providing a great overview, then visited the Isafjordur Culture House on our way back to the ship.


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Panoramic view of Isafjordur

as our cruise ship departs.


16) The Vikings were in Iceland in the 10th and 11th centuries CE. (And the western portion of Iceland rides on the North American tectonic plate! Another argument that they were the first Europeans in North America.)


17) Today's Icelanders speak the same language as the old Norse-Vikings.


Thursday, 7/31 (Akureyri, Iceland) – Janet and I joined a shore excursion through the town and to traditional turf houses. The residents are a friendly bunch as evidenced by their traffic signals.


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A stop light in Akureyri, Iceland.

(Look closely for the heart-shaped

stop signal!)


They also have a sense of humor (whimsy) as evidenced by the woolen, knitted trashcan covers provided by one of the local women. (She creates the covers from scrap material with the hope that they will help prevent littering.)


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An Akureyri troll waiting

to be fed trash!


18) Original/traditional farm houses were built into hillsides and covered with sod (turf) to maximize heat retention. Farmers sheltered their livestock indoors, though in separate spaces during harsh winter months.


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A farm's turf house. (The left

two for people, the right three

for livestock/equipment, with

everything accessed inside,

eliminating exposure to winter

weather.)


Friday, 8/1 (At Sea) – The effects of sea swells on us was minimized as a result of the ship's stabilizers, and though I did observe the ocean conditions periodically, the ship's motions only occasionally drew my attention.


19) Polar bears are classified as marine mammals as they are excellent swimmers and hunt on ice flows (for seals mostly). Though their hair is predominately white (as camouflage, though it may be dirty and look dingy), they have black skin which helps reflect UV radiation.


20) Polar bears caught within the city limits of Churchill, Manitoba, Canada (polar bear capital of the world) are jailed for 30 days, in hopes that they will self-deport when released and never return!


21) The Arctic is the fastest warming region of the world.


22) The Icelandic Walrus is extinct. (For those of you keeping track.)


Saturday, 8/2 (At Sea, Denmark Strait) – As we'd sailed eastward, and set our clocks back, Janet and I experienced "boat lag", necessitating afternoon naps. (Just as tiring as "jet lag", though creeping up as we more slowly moved through time zones.)


23) The 8th-12th centuries CE are considered "the Viking era". Excellent ship builders, the Vikings constructed flexible boats suitable for ocean travel. Yet, with a shallow draft, their boats were suitable for river travel. As a result, the Vikings invaded many areas of Europe, aside from expanding across the North Atlantic and southward into the Mediterranean Sea. They explored (raided) the interior of Europe, reaching deep into Russia. They raided the Lindisfarne Priory, North Umberland, England in 793 CE, and conducted raids throughout France in the 9th and 10th centuries CE.


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The extent of Viking

raids and settlements.


24) Popular notions of horns on Viking helmets are false! Their helmets were mostly made of leather or metal. (Each Viking was responsible for their own gear and weapons. Consider the disadvantages of a horned-helmet during hand-to-hand combat!)


25) A Viking's personal appearance equaled status. (As a result, many women in the British Isles preferred them over their local, more disheveled male counterparts! That explains, at least in part, why the genetic background of women in Iceland is predominately Irish.)


Sunday, 8/3 (Eidfjord, Norway) – Idyllic, this small town with a population of 916, invited exploration on foot.


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Eidfjord, Norway

from our ship.


Janet and I signed up for a tour to Voringfossen (waterfall). Our originally scheduled tour guide/transportation didn't materialize, however, so we opted for "plan B", which turned out to be less expensive.


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Panorama of Voringfossen

(waterfall) near Eidfjord,

Norway.


26) Norway's longest tunnel is 15.3 miles in length. (We traveled through one tunnel to and from the waterfall, though not nearly that long.)


27) Reindeer and lamb burgers are common cuisine. (Open to the idea, I didn't have opportunity to try any, however.)


Monday, 8/4 (At Sea) – We sailed onward, towards Rotterdam, Netherlands. On the occasions when skies were clear and I was looking, the sunsets created gorgeous spectacles.


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Sunset in the North Sea,

off Norway.


Tuesday, 8/5 (Rotterdam, Netherlands) – Though quite windy, and with the sky partly cloudy, Janet and I strolled around a small area of Europe's largest sea port, founded in1270 CE and with a current population of 655K. Broad streets and wide canals in this relatively modern city (as many of the older buildings were heavily damaged during WWII), transform walking around into a challenging hike. We walked through Museum Park, then visited the Natural History Museum located there. Before re-boarding our ship, we joined a local canal tour.


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A view of central portion

of Rotterdam from it's

main canal. (Note our

cruise ship.)


During our harbor tour, I spotted a most unusual structure. Though I can't identify it's purpose, I surmised it's an oil drilling platform or lays pipeline on the seabed. Regardless, I admired it's structural complexity, which, for me, is elegant. (My engineering, left-brain intrigued.)


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Oil drilling platform ...

or deep-sea pipe layer?


Wednesday, 8/6 (At Sea, English Channel) – We sailed toward Ireland via England's southern tip.


28) An important American Civil War Naval battle occurred in Cherbourg Harbor, on the Normandy coast, France, between the CSS Alabama (commerce raider) and USS Kearsarge (sloop-of-war). The Alabama (tasked with disrupting Union shipping from Europe) was out-matched by the Kearsarge (tasked with hunting it down), and was sunk.


Though our days-at-sea generally passed without major excitement, we witnessed an evacuation. Despite the relatively calm sea, the winds were high, necessitating the pilot make multiple attempts to get into a hovering position for a safe transfer of the "patient" from the bow deck. Rumor spread that the victim was a passenger, though that turned out to be a crew member who'd suffered a heart attack. (Was in stable condition at the time of evacuation.)



One of the rescue

chopper's approaches.


Thursday, 8/7 (Dun Laoghaire, Ireland) – Janet and I prearranged a tour of the Guinness Storehouse, which necessitated a 20-min train ride into Dublin. After our tour, I spotted this unusual parking queue of hackneys.


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Odd parking scheme

in Dublin!


29) We were informed that Dublin has over one-thousand pubs, though, aside from the Guinness Storehouse, I didn't have time to visit them all.


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We did visit this

Dublin pub!


Friday, 8/8 (Greenock, Scotland) – Janet and I met two friends, who live nearby, and that we'd met on a previous cruise. Together, we took the local train in Glasgow for a day's outing.


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Janet and I with

friends, Julie & David.


We walked a bit, passing the statue of the Duke of Wellington.


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The Duke, adorned with

traffic cones. (A daily prank

courtesy of college students.)


Then, we caught a Ho-Ho bus (Hop On/Hop Off) to see more of the city. We hopped off to have a fantastic lunch, then hopped on again to visit the Museum of Transport. Afterward, we retraced our route to Greenock, then said our goodbyes.


30) The term "Scot free" comes from the lack of a conviction during trial, when "we know you're guilty, but it wasn't proven."


Our ship recrossed the Irish Sea that evening, heading for Belfast, Northern Ireland.


Saturday, 8/9 (Belfast, N. Ireland) – Janet and I joined a "shore excursion" to the Ard Peninsula.

The weather was near perfect. Our tour stopped for a pub drink in Bangor, then we toured the Grey Abbey, founded 1193 CE. At the abbey, we learned about the monks' lives.


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Grey Abbey docent in a

traditional monk robe.


31) The abbeys were known by the color of their monks' robes. Hood up meant that the monk wasn't talking! Irish monks grew and used herbs and, as a result in part, lived longer than the general population.


32) Roman soldiers carried small pouches of fennel, a mild stimulant, which helped them stave off hunger when marching.


33) Rabbits were introduced to Ireland by the Normans in the 1100s CE. (In case you were wondering.)


Sunday, 8/10 (At Sea) – Occasionally, we sailed through rougher seas, though their effects on the passengers were dampened by ships' stabilizers.


The North Sea swells

seemed bigger in person,

I swear!


Monday, 8/11 (Djupivogur, Iceland) – Janet and I walked around the town (population of 350), visiting a number of beautiful spots. Along the way we stopped for a singing demonstration inside in an empty fish-liver oil tank.



Acoustics

inside the tank.


34) Icelanders suffer from "sun anxiety," focusing on utilizing sunny days to the greatest degree.


35) The Arctic fox is the only indigenous mammal in Iceland. (In case you've wondered!)


36) Beer was illegal in Iceland before 1989! (As a result of clamor to self-medicate "sun anxiety"?)


37) The term "Killer Whales" comes the Basque, who referred to them as "killer of whales". And the Latin name, Orcinus orca, means "large pod coming from hell". However, they are not whales, instead they are the largest dolphin! Sometimes, killer whales will courteously offer up food to people. (For people monitoring their diets, take caution when consuming whale blubber, as it can contain unsafe levels of pollutants!)


Tuesday, 8/12 (Reykjavik, Iceland) – Janet and I took the Ho-Ho bus tour around town, then returned to our ship.


38) Reykjavik (meaning smokey day from volcanic activity) is the most northern capital city in the world.


Wednesday, 8/13 (Reykjavik, Iceland) – On foot, we visited the Harpa Concert Hall.


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A Reykjavik troll.


Then, we visited the National Museum, admiring the houses and buildings, and along the way passing by The Pond (city park).


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The Pond in Reykjavik,

Iceland.


I saw this sign while at the National Museum. (Some things you just need to know!)


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(Self explanatory!)


That evening a local band performed on board the ship. (They refer to themselves as "Icelandicbandname"on their website. Their name, in Icelandic, contains one letter not in the English alphabet, is difficult to pronounce for English speakers, and as they said, "You wouldn't remember it anyway.")



Icelandicbandname performs

one song a cappella.


And, yes ... a dog does bark in the background! (Someone had a support pooch on board.)


Thursday, 8/14 (Grundarfjordur, Iceland) – Janet and I joined a shore excursion around the western tip of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and National Park. We visited a black sand beach, site of a shipwreck, the iconic black-painted church, and enjoyed lunch in Arnarstapi before returning to the ship.


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Kirjufellfoss (waterfall)

with Kirkjufellfoss

(Arrowhead Mountain).


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Arnarstapi turf house

become restaurant.


Friday, 8/15 (At Sea, Denmark Strait) – We sailed toward Prince Christian Sound, Greenland.


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Iceberg(s) in the Denmark

Strait off Greenland.


39) Minus 69.6 degree C (sixty-nine-and-six-tenths) is the lowest temperature recorded on land!


40) Glaciers cover 10% (ten) of earth's landmass, and the sea level would rise 70 meters (approx. 210 feet), if all of them melted.


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Another iceberg in the Denmark

Strait near Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.


Saturday, 8/16 (At Sea, Prince Christian Sound, Greenland) – Our captain informed us of an itinerary change per effects of Hurricane Erin. After our port call in Greenland, we would divert from our St. John's port call, and instead head to Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.


41) The US Army had nuclear aspirations at Camp Century near Thule, Greenland in the 1950s. Constructed within the snow/ice, the camp was abandoned as a result of thawing/melting.


Sunday, 8/17 (Qaqortoq, Greenland) – Though clouds/fog hung low, and a chilly wind blew with a threat of rain looming, Janet and I walked about the town. Most shops were closed and few locals were to be seen.


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A bird's eye view of

Qaqortoq, Greenland.


42) Qaqortoq means "white" in Icelandic. (I imagined it would look quite white during the winter!)


Monday and Tuesday, 8/18-8/19 (At Sea, Labrador Sea) – The captain estimated that we transited through sea swells of 2.5-3 meters (8.2-9.8 feet). Once again, the ship's stabilizers minimized the rocking motion.


Wednesday, 8/20 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I walked on our own, visiting the Halifax Public Gardens, stopped at the Peace By Chocolate store where we purchased several bars of their confection.


43) During WWI, a munitions ship exploded in the Halifax channel following a collision.


Thursday, 8/21 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I joined shore excursion to Peggy's Cove. Along the way we passed the children's hospital in Halifax, founded by Izaac Walton Killam. They refer to it as IWK Hospital, rather than Killam Hospital. (Think about it!)


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A small portion of

idyllic Peggy's Cove.


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Another small view

of Peggy's Cove.


Then, our tour took us to the mass grave of Titanic victims in Halifax.


44) Many of those recovered from the wreck site, 337, though not all, were interred in a mass grave there, simply because they couldn't be identified. (Since then, some have been identified by various means.)


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Mass grave for

Titanic victims in Halifax.


After our tour, Janet and I walked the Halifax waterfront a second time, then stopped dockside at the Garrison Brewery for a cold one. Or in my case, a few, since I enjoyed a beer flight. (Had to!)


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My beer flight at the Garrision

Brewery. (I liked the taste, and humor,

of the"Oh My Gourd" ale on the right,

which had a pumpkin/all-spice flavor.)


After we'd sailed away from Halifax, we were treated to another gorgeous sunset at sea.


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Alpenglow of

a sunset at sea.


Friday, 8/22 (At Sea, Atlantic Ocean) – Our travel toward Boston was relatively smooth, as the captain has successfully skirted the worse of Hurricane Erin's effects, though it was miles away.


I attended a lecture regarding privateers during the American Revolution.


45) George Washington was a privateer (as opposed to pirate). Privateers operated with a Letter of Marque, which meant that they were sanctioned by a government to attack and raid only the "identified enemy", with a portion of the loot going to the sanctioning government. Whereas, pirates rob everybody. The loot from privateering was the only funding source to fight the American War of Independence. Privateers could be easily recruited with the inducement to get rich quick, and captured ships became privateer vessels.


46) Approximately 25K privateers died on British Prison ships in New York harbor, more than those who died in land battles.


47) Eye patches, a common pirate meme, derives from the strategy to maintain/preserve night vision for the covered eye, when vision would be needed instantly when going below deck (a dark environment) during battle. (Not worn due to loss of an eye!)


48) Ben Franklin was heavily engaged in providing Letters of Marque to European ships, particularly French, in hopes that the English would be threatened by potential war with France and give up the fight in America.


49) At the time of the Boston Tea Party, tea was as valuable as gold. As a result, people kept their tea in locked chests. The Tea Party dumped more than $2M of tea in today's value.


Saturday, 8/23 (Boston) – We disembarked the ship early, then toured a portion on the city by bus on our way to Logan airport. While at Quincy Market, we enjoyed a couple slices of pie (pizza) and beer.


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Me posing with The

Lobsta at Quincy Market.


I remain grateful that traveling widens my world view, and brings me great pleasure and spiritual renewal.


Enjoy your travels and walk in beauty.



 
 
  • Writer: Connard Hogan
    Connard Hogan
  • Aug 12, 2021
  • 2 min read

Updated: Sep 23, 2022


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Bottom line: you always start, or take your next step, from where you are at any given moment.


Having had experiences, both as a professional working with drug addicts and alcoholics in recovery, and healing from my own childhood and military experiences of PTSD, I plan to post blogs on the theme of "Wisdom of the 12-Steps." Moreover, I'll include how I think those steps are universal to human change, need and applicability to many every day problems.


I'd pondered what to write in restarting my blog (during a six-month design of my website), particularly whether to write about the theme of “Wisdom of the 12-Steps.” Inevitably, I asked myself a litany of questions, such as, how would I start this, where should I . . . and where need I?


In spite of my trepidation, I circled back to phrases such as Dragnet’s Joe Friday’s by-line, “Just the facts, Ma'am,” “Cut to the chase” (which I understand originated in the silent movie era), and the more recent Nike logo, “Just do it,”and accepted that my “pondering process” could continue ad infinitum and ad nauseam.


Lao Tzu, a Chinese philosopher, is attributed with saying, “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” Any journey, simple or complex, long or short, out of necessity or a whim, whether mental, emotional, physical, and/or spiritual began, or begins, with the first step . . . then proceeds from there. Corrections and adjustments can be made made along the way, and are, as necessary.


Don’t get me wrong. Planning is helpful, important and essential in some cases. But, thinking, especially when stuck in fear, isn’t the same as action, and all too often thinking and planning can be used as excuses, thus an avoidance of committing to the journey.


So, in the vein of the 12-Steps of Recovery, I needed to “Suit up and show up,” (a common encouragement in 12-Step meetings), take the next step, in spite of the risks, and thus arrived at this post, which I remind myself may not be “perfect,” though doesn’t need to be . . . because without this "first step" (or next step), I wasn't going anywhere, except in my head.


Photo Credit: drbigtoe - imgur.com



 
 

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