A Few “Lesser Known and Obscure” Facts I Learned While Sailing Across the North Atlantic

Bottom line: Travel feeds your soul, if you let it!

Janet and I pose with Kujalleq

Glacier (left) in Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.

Janet and I recently transited the North Atlantic on a 35-day round-trip "Voyage of the Vikings" ocean cruise, visiting a number of countries along the way. Though the northern climate is notoriously cold, even during summer, we bundled up when on deck or on land. Despite that, the weather was pleasant on a number of days.

Saturday, 7/18 (Boston) – We boarded the Holland America Zuiderdam and sailed away from Boston, along with about 1,800 other passengers.

During the first day of our journey, Janet and I settled into a somewhat evenly paced routine of over-eating at every meal, over-indulging in drinking, and attending available lectures. Daily lecturers and port talks while at sea provided cultural enrichment on varied topics. (I've introduced interesting tidbits in this blog, which are numbered and sprinkled throughout.)

Sunday, 7/19 (Portland, Maine) – Janet and I walked about town on our own. We toured a brown-stone Victorian mansion, called "Victorian Mansion"!

Side view of Victoria

Mansion in Portland, Maine.

The Parlor, I think it's called.

Then, we enjoyed a lobster roll before reboarding the ship!

I'm enjoying a lobster roll at

an outdoor harbor restaurant.

Monday, 7/21 (At Sea) – As is necessary in the North Atlantic, we sailed through fog periodically.

Tuesday, 7/22 (Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I meandered about town. Following a brief rain with a chilly breeze, the sky cleared.

1) Did you know that Nova Scotia is Latin for New Scotland?

We toured the Jost Heritage House Museum. Constructed in 1767, it's one of the oldest structures in town and served as a residence, general store and apothecary shop.

Janet talks with two

docents after our tour.

The Big Fiddle at

Sydney's cruise ship docks.

Wednesday, 7/23 (Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada) – We visited the Railway Society Historic Train site. (Eat your heart out, Sheldon Cooper!) In the town center, we consumed local beer, and toured the Corner Brook Museum and Archives. Along the way, we spotted a local coffee shop with a whimsical name. (I always appreciate a good sense of humor!)

A coffee shop on

the main drag.

2) Fiddlehead Ferns, a fresh food source in the spring, are edible when the shoots are first developing, and are usually fried lightly in oil. (I inquired about their availability on several occasions while in various ports, but learned the season had passed.)

3) The Canadian dollar (coin) is known as a "loonie," for the bird on the backside. The two dollar coin is called a "toonie".

Thursday, 7/24 (Red Bay, Labrador, Canada) – We rode a water taxi across the bay to hike Tracey Hill Trail.

Notorious small black flies, likely outnumber the fishing village population of 142! I can't attest to that, however, since the low temperature that day encouraged the flies to stay home. A local told us that the flies don't bite. Instead, they provide an enthusiastic welcome by swarming about.

Janet, dressed to stay

warm and thwart black flies.

(Red Bay in background)

4) Back in the village, we visited the Right Whale Museum. Right whales were given that name from Basque/Spanish whalers, because they were the "right" whale to hunt, ie. easy to kill, as they were slow moving and floated once dead. And now, as you might expect, they're an endangered species. In the 1500s CE, they were plentiful in Labrador's waters, however.

5) Clarence Birdseye was inspired to create Birds Eye "flash frozen" veggies as a result of the COLD temperatures he experienced in Labrador.

6) The San Juan, a basque whaling ship, sank in 1565 CE near Red Bay. The wreck was rediscovered in 1978 largely intact. Once recovered and examined, it was re-submerged as a preservation strategy. (The cold, oxygen-poor water creates a near sterile environment!)

Friday, 7/25 (At Sea) – Once again, we passed through areas of fog, usually accompanied by smooth sea. Newfoundland and Labrador are "home of Iceberg Alley". I looked for icebergs occasionally, and saw some from miles away.

Iceberg in the Labrador Sea.

Saturday, 7/26 (Paamiut, Greenland) – Settled about 1500 BC, with a current population of 1,500, this village is known for it's colorful houses. Janet and I walked about, and scaled the prominent viewpoint.

Panorama of Paamiut, Greenland.

Our ship, Zuiderdam, from Paamiut's

highest viewpoint. (Note the rock,

rubbed smooth by glaciation, and

kept barren by cold climate and

lack of top soil.)

7) The bedrock of Paamiut is part of the Archaean craton, a Precambrian shield of some of the oldest rocks on Earth. I was struck by the look of the treeless, barren landscape. (And they felt old to me!)

Sunday, 7/27 (Nanortalik, Greenland) – Janet and I walked around the town, though most everything was closed. We surmised that the population of 1,070 didn't think it necessary to welcome us tourists.

8) In the past, the color of a building designated the occupants' function (job), though that holds less true today ... likely.

Panorama of Nanortalik.

Fishing is the locals' sustainable occupation, and whale hunting remains an important activity. Whale blubber provides a useful, and helpful, supplementation to their diet, particularly in winter (about eight months per year).

9) A local informed us that whale blubber causes the body to heat up, which is welcomed in cold weather, while in warm weather causes sweating.

10) Whales are hunted during the winter, and residents, in at least some villages, receive a text message alerting them that a whale has been killed, so that they can share in the harvest.

11) Narwhals, which can live up to 150 years, are veritable unicorns of the sea, have one tusk (widely known), and are otherwise toothless (not so widely known). Occasionally, however, a male will have two tusks. In the Norse language, Narwhal means "corpse swell"!

12) Cod (fish) swim with their mouths open. As omnivores, they scoop up whatever, and are likened to "aquatic Homer Simpsons" (not very bright)! They are a vulnerable species today.

13) Vikings visited, and had temporary settlements, on the North American mainland (Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada) in the 1100s, as per two sagas of "Erik the Red" and "Greenlanders." (That was 500 years before Columbus discovered the Caribbean Islands, the West Indies). As well, Christopher didn't see nor set foot on the mainland!) "Erik the Red" helped settle Greenland and "Leif the Lucky" Erikson (meaning son of Erik) helped settle Labrador (at least temporarily). The Vikings' furthest reach was into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Relics from ruins, dating 1021 CE (Leif Erickson's time), were found in Newfoundland. So, Erik the Red would've been the first European living in Greenland, and thus on the North American continent.

14) Vikings (Norse) knew how to work with iron, as evidenced by the discovery of slag heaps. Their favorite weapons were axes, and their "hardened" iron was much stronger than other European weapons made of brittle "bog iron". (Hardly an even match!)

The captain moved our ship away from the town's dock (Nanortalik) early that evening and anchored us in a more protected wind shadow to avoid swells/waves from strong winds. The ship shuddered throughout the night as side-thrusters worked to maintain an optimal heading. (Wouldn't do to have the ship swing broadside in strong winds, even when at anchor.)

Monday, 7/28 (At Sea, Prince Christian Sound, Greenland) – On an easterly course, we transited the sound, stopping to view the iconic Kujalleq Glacier on the way.

Cruising the Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.

15) Though 80% (eighty) of Greenland is ice/snow covered, "Erik the Red" pulled a marketing con-job by promoting it as "Greenland", presumably doing so in order to attract settlers.

Tuesday, 7/29 (At Sea) – We continued sailing eastward toward Iceland, while Janet and I consumed food and drink to our hearts' content.

Wednesday, 7/30 (Isafjordur, Iceland) – Janet and I explored the town (which wraps around a small harbor) on foot, admired the houses and buildings, climbed to the "Observation Deck", a high point providing a great overview, then visited the Isafjordur Culture House on our way back to the ship.

Panoramic view of Isafjordur

as our cruise ship departs.

16) The Vikings were in Iceland in the 10th and 11th centuries CE. (And the western portion of Iceland rides on the North American tectonic plate! Another argument that they were the first Europeans in North America.)

17) Today's Icelanders speak the same language as the old Norse-Vikings.

Thursday, 7/31 (Akureyri, Iceland) – Janet and I joined a shore excursion through the town and to traditional turf houses. The residents are a friendly bunch as evidenced by their traffic signals.

A stop light in Akureyri, Iceland.

(Look closely for the heart-shaped

stop signal!)

They also have a sense of humor (whimsy) as evidenced by the woolen, knitted trashcan covers provided by one of the local women. (She creates the covers from scrap material with the hope that they will help prevent littering.)

An Akureyri troll waiting

to be fed trash!

18) Original/traditional farm houses were built into hillsides and covered with sod (turf) to maximize heat retention. Farmers sheltered their livestock indoors, though in separate spaces during harsh winter months.

A farm's turf house. (The left

two for people, the right three

for livestock/equipment, with

everything accessed inside,

eliminating exposure to winter

weather.)

Friday, 8/1 (At Sea) – The effects of sea swells on us was minimized as a result of the ship's stabilizers, and though I did observe the ocean conditions periodically, the ship's motions only occasionally drew my attention.

19) Polar bears are classified as marine mammals as they are excellent swimmers and hunt on ice flows (for seals mostly). Though their hair is predominately white (as camouflage, though it may be dirty and look dingy), they have black skin which helps reflect UV radiation.

20) Polar bears caught within the city limits of Churchill, Manitoba, Canada (polar bear capital of the world) are jailed for 30 days, in hopes that they will self-deport when released and never return!

21) The Arctic is the fastest warming region of the world.

22) The Icelandic Walrus is extinct. (For those of you keeping track.)

Saturday, 8/2 (At Sea, Denmark Strait) – As we'd sailed eastward, and set our clocks back, Janet and I experienced "boat lag", necessitating afternoon naps. (Just as tiring as "jet lag", though creeping up as we more slowly moved through time zones.)

23) The 8th-12th centuries CE are considered "the Viking era". Excellent ship builders, the Vikings constructed flexible boats suitable for ocean travel. Yet, with a shallow draft, their boats were suitable for river travel. As a result, the Vikings invaded many areas of Europe, aside from expanding across the North Atlantic and southward into the Mediterranean Sea. They explored (raided) the interior of Europe, reaching deep into Russia. They raided the Lindisfarne Priory, North Umberland, England in 793 CE, and conducted raids throughout France in the 9th and 10th centuries CE.

The extent of Viking

raids and settlements.

24) Popular notions of horns on Viking helmets are false! Their helmets were mostly made of leather or metal. (Each Viking was responsible for their own gear and weapons. Consider the disadvantages of a horned-helmet during hand-to-hand combat!)

25) A Viking's personal appearance equaled status. (As a result, many women in the British Isles preferred them over their local, more disheveled male counterparts! That explains, at least in part, why the genetic background of women in Iceland is predominately Irish.)

Sunday, 8/3 (Eidfjord, Norway) – Idyllic, this small town with a population of 916, invited exploration on foot.

Eidfjord, Norway

from our ship.

Janet and I signed up for a tour to Voringfossen (waterfall). Our originally scheduled tour guide/transportation didn't materialize, however, so we opted for "plan B", which turned out to be less expensive.

Panorama of Voringfossen

(waterfall) near Eidfjord,

Norway.

26) Norway's longest tunnel is 15.3 miles in length. (We traveled through one tunnel to and from the waterfall, though not nearly that long.)

27) Reindeer and lamb burgers are common cuisine. (Open to the idea, I didn't have opportunity to try any, however.)

Monday, 8/4 (At Sea) – We sailed onward, towards Rotterdam, Netherlands. On the occasions when skies were clear and I was looking, the sunsets created gorgeous spectacles.

Sunset in the North Sea,

off Norway.

Tuesday, 8/5 (Rotterdam, Netherlands) – Though quite windy, and with the sky partly cloudy, Janet and I strolled around a small area of Europe's largest sea port, founded in1270 CE and with a current population of 655K. Broad streets and wide canals in this relatively modern city (as many of the older buildings were heavily damaged during WWII), transform walking around into a challenging hike. We walked through Museum Park, then visited the Natural History Museum located there. Before re-boarding our ship, we joined a local canal tour.

A view of central portion

of Rotterdam from it's

main canal. (Note our

cruise ship.)

During our harbor tour, I spotted a most unusual structure. Though I can't identify it's purpose, I surmised it's an oil drilling platform or lays pipeline on the seabed. Regardless, I admired it's structural complexity, which, for me, is elegant. (My engineering, left-brain intrigued.)

Oil drilling platform ...

or deep-sea pipe layer?

Wednesday, 8/6 (At Sea, English Channel) – We sailed toward Ireland via England's southern tip.

28) An important American Civil War Naval battle occurred in Cherbourg Harbor, on the Normandy coast, France, between the CSS Alabama (commerce raider) and USS Kearsarge (sloop-of-war). The Alabama (tasked with disrupting Union shipping from Europe) was out-matched by the Kearsarge (tasked with hunting it down), and was sunk.

Though our days-at-sea generally passed without major excitement, we witnessed an evacuation. Despite the relatively calm sea, the winds were high, necessitating the pilot make multiple attempts to get into a hovering position for a safe transfer of the "patient" from the bow deck. Rumor spread that the victim was a passenger, though that turned out to be a crew member who'd suffered a heart attack. (Was in stable condition at the time of evacuation.)

One of the rescue

chopper's approaches.

Thursday, 8/7 (Dun Laoghaire, Ireland) – Janet and I prearranged a tour of the Guinness Storehouse, which necessitated a 20-min train ride into Dublin. After our tour, I spotted this unusual parking queue of hackneys.

Odd parking scheme

in Dublin!

29) We were informed that Dublin has over one-thousand pubs, though, aside from the Guinness Storehouse, I didn't have time to visit them all.

We did visit this

Dublin pub!

Friday, 8/8 (Greenock, Scotland) – Janet and I met two friends, who live nearby, and that we'd met on a previous cruise. Together, we took the local train in Glasgow for a day's outing.

Janet and I with

friends, Julie & David.

We walked a bit, passing the statue of the Duke of Wellington.

The Duke, adorned with

traffic cones. (A daily prank

courtesy of college students.)

Then, we caught a Ho-Ho bus (Hop On/Hop Off) to see more of the city. We hopped off to have a fantastic lunch, then hopped on again to visit the Museum of Transport. Afterward, we retraced our route to Greenock, then said our goodbyes.

30) The term "Scot free" comes from the lack of a conviction during trial, when "we know you're guilty, but it wasn't proven."

Our ship recrossed the Irish Sea that evening, heading for Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Saturday, 8/9 (Belfast, N. Ireland) – Janet and I joined a "shore excursion" to the Ard Peninsula.

The weather was near perfect. Our tour stopped for a pub drink in Bangor, then we toured the Grey Abbey, founded 1193 CE. At the abbey, we learned about the monks' lives.

Grey Abbey docent in a

traditional monk robe.

31) The abbeys were known by the color of their monks' robes. Hood up meant that the monk wasn't talking! Irish monks grew and used herbs and, as a result in part, lived longer than the general population.

32) Roman soldiers carried small pouches of fennel, a mild stimulant, which helped them stave off hunger when marching.

33) Rabbits were introduced to Ireland by the Normans in the 1100s CE. (In case you were wondering.)

Sunday, 8/10 (At Sea) – Occasionally, we sailed through rougher seas, though their effects on the passengers were dampened by ships' stabilizers.

The North Sea swells

seemed bigger in person,

I swear!

Monday, 8/11 (Djupivogur, Iceland) – Janet and I walked around the town (population of 350), visiting a number of beautiful spots. Along the way we stopped for a singing demonstration inside in an empty fish-liver oil tank.

Acoustics

inside the tank.

34) Icelanders suffer from "sun anxiety," focusing on utilizing sunny days to the greatest degree.

35) The Arctic fox is the only indigenous mammal in Iceland. (In case you've wondered!)

36) Beer was illegal in Iceland before 1989! (As a result of clamor to self-medicate "sun anxiety"?)

37) The term "Killer Whales" comes the Basque, who referred to them as "killer of whales". And the Latin name, Orcinus orca, means "large pod coming from hell". However, they are not whales, instead they are the largest dolphin! Sometimes, killer whales will courteously offer up food to people. (For people monitoring their diets, take caution when consuming whale blubber, as it can contain unsafe levels of pollutants!)

Tuesday, 8/12 (Reykjavik, Iceland) – Janet and I took the Ho-Ho bus tour around town, then returned to our ship.

38) Reykjavik (meaning smokey day from volcanic activity) is the most northern capital city in the world.

Wednesday, 8/13 (Reykjavik, Iceland) – On foot, we visited the Harpa Concert Hall.

A Reykjavik troll.

Then, we visited the National Museum, admiring the houses and buildings, and along the way passing by The Pond (city park).

The Pond in Reykjavik,

Iceland.

I saw this sign while at the National Museum. (Some things you just need to know!)

(Self explanatory!)

That evening a local band performed on board the ship. (They refer to themselves as "Icelandicbandname"on their website. Their name, in Icelandic, contains one letter not in the English alphabet, is difficult to pronounce for English speakers, and as they said, "You wouldn't remember it anyway.")

Icelandicbandname performs

one song a cappella.

And, yes ... a dog does bark in the background! (Someone had a support pooch on board.)

Thursday, 8/14 (Grundarfjordur, Iceland) – Janet and I joined a shore excursion around the western tip of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula and National Park. We visited a black sand beach, site of a shipwreck, the iconic black-painted church, and enjoyed lunch in Arnarstapi before returning to the ship.

Kirjufellfoss (waterfall)

with Kirkjufellfoss

(Arrowhead Mountain).

Arnarstapi turf house

become restaurant.

Friday, 8/15 (At Sea, Denmark Strait) – We sailed toward Prince Christian Sound, Greenland.

Iceberg(s) in the Denmark

Strait off Greenland.

39) Minus 69.6 degree C (sixty-nine-and-six-tenths) is the lowest temperature recorded on land!

40) Glaciers cover 10% (ten) of earth's landmass, and the sea level would rise 70 meters (approx. 210 feet), if all of them melted.

Another iceberg in the Denmark

Strait near Prince Christian

Sound, Greenland.

Saturday, 8/16 (At Sea, Prince Christian Sound, Greenland) – Our captain informed us of an itinerary change per effects of Hurricane Erin. After our port call in Greenland, we would divert from our St. John's port call, and instead head to Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.

41) The US Army had nuclear aspirations at Camp Century near Thule, Greenland in the 1950s. Constructed within the snow/ice, the camp was abandoned as a result of thawing/melting.

Sunday, 8/17 (Qaqortoq, Greenland) – Though clouds/fog hung low, and a chilly wind blew with a threat of rain looming, Janet and I walked about the town. Most shops were closed and few locals were to be seen.

A bird's eye view of

Qaqortoq, Greenland.

42) Qaqortoq means "white" in Icelandic. (I imagined it would look quite white during the winter!)

Monday and Tuesday, 8/18-8/19 (At Sea, Labrador Sea) – The captain estimated that we transited through sea swells of 2.5-3 meters (8.2-9.8 feet). Once again, the ship's stabilizers minimized the rocking motion.

Wednesday, 8/20 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I walked on our own, visiting the Halifax Public Gardens, stopped at the Peace By Chocolate store where we purchased several bars of their confection.

43) During WWI, a munitions ship exploded in the Halifax channel following a collision.

Thursday, 8/21 (Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada) – Janet and I joined shore excursion to Peggy's Cove. Along the way we passed the children's hospital in Halifax, founded by Izaac Walton Killam. They refer to it as IWK Hospital, rather than Killam Hospital. (Think about it!)

A small portion of

idyllic Peggy's Cove.

Another small view

of Peggy's Cove.

Then, our tour took us to the mass grave of Titanic victims in Halifax.

44) Many of those recovered from the wreck site, 337, though not all, were interred in a mass grave there, simply because they couldn't be identified. (Since then, some have been identified by various means.)

Mass grave for

Titanic victims in Halifax.

After our tour, Janet and I walked the Halifax waterfront a second time, then stopped dockside at the Garrison Brewery for a cold one. Or in my case, a few, since I enjoyed a beer flight. (Had to!)

My beer flight at the Garrision

Brewery. (I liked the taste, and humor,

of the"Oh My Gourd" ale on the right,

which had a pumpkin/all-spice flavor.)

After we'd sailed away from Halifax, we were treated to another gorgeous sunset at sea.

Alpenglow of

a sunset at sea.

Friday, 8/22 (At Sea, Atlantic Ocean) – Our travel toward Boston was relatively smooth, as the captain has successfully skirted the worse of Hurricane Erin's effects, though it was miles away.

I attended a lecture regarding privateers during the American Revolution.

45) George Washington was a privateer (as opposed to pirate). Privateers operated with a Letter of Marque, which meant that they were sanctioned by a government to attack and raid only the "identified enemy", with a portion of the loot going to the sanctioning government. Whereas, pirates rob everybody. The loot from privateering was the only funding source to fight the American War of Independence. Privateers could be easily recruited with the inducement to get rich quick, and captured ships became privateer vessels.

46) Approximately 25K privateers died on British Prison ships in New York harbor, more than those who died in land battles.

47) Eye patches, a common pirate meme, derives from the strategy to maintain/preserve night vision for the covered eye, when vision would be needed instantly when going below deck (a dark environment) during battle. (Not worn due to loss of an eye!)

48) Ben Franklin was heavily engaged in providing Letters of Marque to European ships, particularly French, in hopes that the English would be threatened by potential war with France and give up the fight in America.

49) At the time of the Boston Tea Party, tea was as valuable as gold. As a result, people kept their tea in locked chests. The Tea Party dumped more than $2M of tea in today's value.

Saturday, 8/23 (Boston) – We disembarked the ship early, then toured a portion on the city by bus on our way to Logan airport. While at Quincy Market, we enjoyed a couple slices of pie (pizza) and beer.

Me posing with The

Lobsta at Quincy Market.

I remain grateful that traveling widens my world view, and brings me great pleasure and spiritual renewal.

Enjoy your travels and walk in beauty.

A Few “Lesser Known and Obscure” Facts I Learned While Visiting Alaska

Bottom line: Traveling is always about experiencing something new!

Janet and I pose as our cruise ship leaves Vancouver, BC.

Janet and I recently cruised the Inside Passage, then visited a small portion of Alaska’s interior. Though the climate there is notorious for cloudy weather (and rain), we had good fortune. Most days the sky was clear or only partly cloudy, while the temperatures hovered in the mid-fifties, though had climbed to the mid-seventies in Fairbanks.

Sunday – We passengers, 2262 in all, boarded Holland America’s Nieuw Amsterdam in Vancouver, BC, joining the 864, or so, crew. (Visiting entertainers and musicians are considered crew, though they come and go at different ports.)

Monday – Janet and I settled into a hectic self-imposed routine of eat, drink and attend lectures during our first "sea day." Challenged to avoid over-indulgence, we managed a slight degree of restraint. Daily lecturers onboard, and comments as we toured by bus, provided cultural enrichment. (Interesting tidbits are numbered and sprinkled throughout this blog.)

1) Sea life abounds in colder waters. The temperatures allow the water to hold more saturated oxygen, hence, a more diverse ecosystem, e.g. more plankton resulting in whale migrations.

Tuesday – Our ship docked at our first port, Ketchikan, Alaska's most southern city.

2) Ketchikan is located on an island, and is not connected by bridge to the mainland, or the US road system.

3) Some “streets” are mere wooden walkways and staircases, as there were no motorized vehicles present when the city was originally developing.

A narrow, wooden staircase

"street" in Ketchikan.

4) The iconic “scream” of the Bald Eagle in American film is actually the call of a red-tailed hawk. Bald eagles don’t have a fierce or shrill call, which wasn't considered dramatic enough, apparently. That's Hollywood for ya'.

We visited the Totem Bight State Park, where we learned about the native Alaskan practice of carving totem poles for storytelling, clan identification, and shaming stingy neighbors.

5) The poles tell stories (such as of the creation) as the native Alaskans had no written language. The poles didn't serve as idols for worship, however.

Two "older" totems and clan markings on

the buildings at Totem Bight State Park .

Totem at downtown Ketchikan waterfront.

6) Having a pole carved today could cost $5K-10K per foot!

Janet and I visited the Red Dog Saloon, where we each enjoyed a “Duck Fart,” a delicious shot of a three-liquor combo. (Don’t ask me which liquors, however.)

Janet poses before we consumed our Duck Farts.

Wednesday – By bus from Juneau, we visited Mendenhall Glacier. Though we kept our eyes open for bears, we saw none.

Mendenhall Glacier near Juneau, Alaska.

7) Yesteryear lumberjacks built floating houses (even “cities”) in order to move to various logging sites along the coast or harbors.

8) Alaska’s capital is located on Juneau Island–D’you know the capital of Alaska?–and isn’t connected by road to the mainland.

9) The island has two horse crossing signs, but no horses. The climate is not conducive to maintaining horses year-round, as they develop weather related illnesses. So, the horses that had been there were removed, though the signs were left behind.

10) There are almost as many bald eagles (30K) as humans (35K) on Juneau Island.

Thursday – From Skagway (“Gateway to the Klondike” gold fields) we rode by bus into Canada and to the high plateau just beyond White Horse Pass, over which many gold rushers traversed on their way to the Yukon.

11) The gold rushers were forced by Canadian authorities to trek one ton of supplies with them. That requirement necessitated several trips, and/or use of pack animals, to carry sufficient supplies over the pass, an arduous trek, even without gear. In addition, due to rocky terrain, where legs could easily get broken, it proved easier to portage through snow during the winter. As a result of the hazards, including mistreatment from their handlers, some 3,000 horses died making the trip through the pass, earning it the nickname "Dead Horse Trail."

12) Few gold rushers became wealthy, and tens-of-thousands died during the Klondike Gold Rush, though exact numbers are unknown.

13) As lucrative, even more so, than heading into the backcountry for gold, many people, such as the case in Skagway, went to Alaska to “mine” the gold rushers, e.g. saloon/hotel operators, prostitutes and purveyors.

14) We visited the original cemetery where a number of notable Skagway characters were buried ... and appear to remain so. I took note of several comments on a cemetery sign. (Read the first lines for Frank Reid and Ella Wilson.)

Sign at the first Skagway cemetery.

15) Skagway got electricity before Manhattan!

Janet and I visited the Red Onion Saloon (originally serving as a brothel, as well), where we enjoyed “Reindeer Farts,” (another three-combo liquor shot, though different than the Duck Fart). Again, I don’t know what they were made of, though mine tasted great.

Janet poses at the Red Onion Saloon.

Friday – In clear weather, we sailed into Glacier Bay and cruised to Margerie Glacier at the bay's head.

Margerie Glacier.

16) Alaska has more glaciers than anywhere else in the world!

Saturday – We proceeded to College Fjord. Clear weather continuing, we cruised to the head of the fjord and observed some “minor” calving from Harvard Glacier.

Harvard Glacier from our ship.

Sunday – Our ship docked in Whittier. We disembarked, and boarded a bus for Anchorage. On the way there, we stopped at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, which rehabilitates rescued Alaskan animals.

Two bears observed from

a safe viewing platform.

17) Porcupines are phenomenal tree climbers, though poor at remaining perched. Warning: always check before standing under a tree, least you get impaled by a falling porcupine.

In Anchorage, Alaska’s most populous city, Janet and I strolled a short distance from our hotel to Ship Creek, in a quest to spot spawning salmon, though saw none. Along the way, we enjoyed ice cream at Wild Scoops , then passed the train depot.

Monday – We headed around Turnagain Arm by bus for a look at Cook’s Bay (Yes, that Captain Cook!) and distant view of downtown Anchorage.

18) Cook’s Bay doesn’t have deep water. Large portions of the bay turn to mudflats during low tide, and the fine silt in the bay (about the consistency of baby powder) has been estimated to be 90 feet deep or more. Dredging efforts produce only temporary results.

Cook's Bay mudflats and downtown Anchorage.

On our return into downtown Anchorage, we visited the Alaska Native Heritage Center, where we examined artifacts of traditional tribal Alaskan life.

19) One in five Alaskans have pilot’s licenses. (Bush planes being the primary transportation mode.)

20) It’s illegal to drop moose from planes ... or their droppings. (Okay, I realize this needs some explanation.) At one point, some people, otherwise bored, and with a surplus of moose poo about, would bet on how close to a target they can get moose droppings ... and perhaps a moose occasionally. Hence ... the current law.

That evening, thrilled about, and wanting to take advantage of our two-room hotel suite, Janet and I decided to take cocktails to our room from the hotel bar, Fletcher’s. However, we were informed that would require a hotel security escort. Though Janet was somewhat reluctant, I was all in. Why not? (In the end, our security guard carried our drinks, and we weren’t required to be hand-cuffed!) Though I initially speculated that the hotel didn’t want us to steal their glasses, I concluded that the hotel wanted no liability in serving alcohol that could be carried onto the streets of Anchorage.

Tuesday – We boarded the train for Denali National Park, taking seats in an observation car. On our journey north, we were served lunch.

Glimpse of Denali, 20,310 feet tall, from the train.

21) We passed a line of telegraph poles (protected historical monuments) aside the highway. Some years after the telegraph went the way of the dodo in Alaska, the copper wires were removed, though the poles were left standing. Some citizens thought it unnecessary to pay for their removal, and also thought that they were of some historical value. So, today those poles are like totems … left untouched on purpose, to fall and decay at will.

A "historic monument" telegraph

pole along the highway.

Wednesday – Following our first night's stay at the Holland America Denali Lodge, we were taken on the Denali Natural History Tour, riding by park bus along a portion of the one maintained road. Again, though we scanned the terrain for large animals, such as moose and bear, our efforts were fruitless. Two moose were spotted a a great distance, though they were difficult to see without binoculars. I did see a mated-pair of ptarmigan with several chicks foraging just off the road.

22) Largest of the US National Parks, Denali was established to protect Dall Sheep, the only park established for the purpose of protecting animals.

That evening, Janet and I enjoyed a great meal at the Denali Lodge.

Janet shows off her order of crab cakes, while I

ogle my order of Canadian candied bacon.

(Appetizers, mind you!)

Thursday – We boarded a bus for our transfer to Fairbanks, farther north.

23) “Frost heave,” quite noticeable and a result of permafrost thawing and refreezing, creates a roller coaster effect along portions of the highways.

24) Forest fires are common in Alaska, a natural and necessary process for forest regeneration, e.g. spruce trees require fire to release seeds from their cones. We were required to wait about 20 minutes near one such fire (though we saw no evidence of flames, nor smoke) where the road traffic was escorted and limited to one direction of travel at a time. As I understood the explanation, aspen trees have extensive root systems which can burn/smolder underground for some time, despite the absence of flame above ground. As a result, another outbreak of fire can occur later.

Friday – We visited a portion of the famed Alaska pipeline on the outskirts of Fairbanks.

25) Completed in 1977, it’s still working well, despite an expected lifespan of 20 years. “Pigs” keep the pipe’s inside cleared and the oil flowing. As the pigs move along, they sound like the squeaking and scrapping when glass is cleaned … or so we were told.

Display of a "pig" in a pipeline.

(Note the original spelling of Alaska.)

Following a short walk and train ride, we visited the nearby Dredge 8, the one remaining river dredge maintained for viewing. I imagined the dredge's operation an odd sight, indeed, only requiring enough water to float, as it backfilled its way along.

Dredge 8, in situ.

There, everyone received a fist-sized "grub bag" (sample of alluvial debris) and taught how to pan for gold. My sample yielded $18 worth of gold specks and Janet’s produced $12. What a haul! But it was easy to see how mere small amounts of the glittery yellow mineral could generate a stampede.

From there, we lunched at the Riverboat Discovery dock near the Fairbanks airport, then boarded the paddle-wheeler, Discovery III, for a short ride down the Chena River.

Along the way, our boat paused so we could watch a dog sled demonstration at Trail Breaker Kennel, currently run by Susan Butcher’s daughter.

A demonstration of dog sledding

performed by the daughter of Susan

Butcher. (Note: Susan was a four

time Iditarod winner.)

26) The famed Iditarod Dog Sled Race stems from the need to deliver diphtheria medication to treat an outbreak in Nome in 1925, as there was no other option. Fewer people have finished that race than have climbed Mt. Everest. Generally, there are 26 or 27 checkpoints (depending upon the route selected), and situated 30 to 80 miles apart, over the race length of 1,100+ miles. The sled dogs, huskies, are generally “trotted” at 9 miles per hour, a sustainable speed for them.

The paddle-wheeler continued downstream to the junction with the Tanana River, where we turned upstream.

On our boat's return to the dock, we stopped at the Chena Village Living Museum for several more demonstrations.

Modeling a traditional Alaskan native

dress made of various animal furs.

We learned about about native Alaskan

life and indigenous animal furs.

Saturday – Our trip ending, Janet and I headed to the airport.

Though disappointed about not seeing bears and moose in the wild, or running salmon, during the land potion of our trip, Janet and I wre thankful of the pleasant weather … and the absence of mosquito hordes. Moreover, we took pleasure in availing ourselves of food, drink and the entertainment/lectures on board the cruise ship.

I remain grateful that traveling widens my world view, and brings me great pleasure and spiritual renewal.

Walk in beauty.

Trudging Along (PCT)

Bottom line: Sometimes, all you can do is pick ‘em up, then put ‘em down!

10.16.23, Day 0, “Night of the Rumbling Beasts” -

Mark (Wrongway Mark, that is) and I headed for Tehachapi in preparation for our planned PCT hike between Tehachapi Pass/PCT trial junction and Kennedy Meadows, the driest section of the PCT ... as we were forewarned. Turned out that Bob (aka Dr. Bobo) had arrived at the designated motel rendezvous point ahead of us. From there the three of us headed off for a warm meal and chilled beer before our respective night's rests.

On the cheap, Dr. Bobo and I decided to cowboy camp, so we drove to Cameron Road in Sand Canyon, located in Tehachapi Pass, and chose a level spot alongside the railroad crossing. Bad move! We’d no sooner settled into our sleeping bags when a train approached the crossing, sounding it’s three warning blasts.

Run! Prim8 yelled, amidst the rumbling.

Geez Louise, that’s loud! Sounds like that thing is going to run us over, dude.

Thereafter, repeated every half-hour throughout the night, the lumbering beasts alternated their direction of travel, blasting their way as they went. Aside from attempting to adjust to the audible intrusion all night long, I couldn’t dismiss the idea that a train would run me over, though I knew better.

No! Prim8 complained, or at least it seemed that way, at every train’s approach.

Things can only get better, fella! We won’t be sleeping here again.

Perhaps, I dozed through an intrusion or two ... or just had started to ignore them. I don’t know … didn’t care. I just wanted some sleep.

Since Dr. Bobo would act as rendezvous support, aka trail angel, Wrongway and I could indulge in our hiking regimen, alleviating some overnights on the PCT, reducing the loads of water and food we’d carry, and divvied our hike into segments, alternating directions according to elevation loss and gain, into what seemed a veritable jigsaw puzzle of pieces.

And in my quest to resolve my previous, and recurrent, foot-blister problem, I planned to lubricate my feet—I’d purchased and brought several types to use—wear only one pair of well-fitted socks, and lace my boots tightly at the ankles. Fingers crossed!

Segment One - Landers Camp Road junction (608.9) southbound to Tehachapi Pass junction (566.4), two overnights:

10.17.23, Day 1, “Black Flies” -

Dr. Bobo dropped Wrongway and I at Landers Camp, from where we started our southbound trek. In the meantime, Dr. Bobo would explore potential rendezvous points via accessible roads using Wrongway's RAV4 and meet us at the Tehachapi Pass junction two days hence.

Cool breezes and partial shade provided by tall pines helped prevent profuse sweating as we hiked under clear skies. Innumerable black flies swarmed about our faces as we hiked, only temporarily dissuaded with a wave of a hand. Collectively, they were determined to seek every exposed orifice.

Ahh, Prim8 complained, when I swallowed an wayward fly.

Annoying, ain’t they, Prim8? I took another swipe with one hand to shoo a few away from my face. Why didn’t I think to bring my head net covering?

Both Landers Creek and Cottonwood Creek were flowing with clear water, but Wrongway and I carried a sufficient supply.

By 5:30PM, we arrived at Hamp Williams Pass (596.5), where we set up Wrongway’s tent, snacked, then Wrongway hung our food from a tree. At some point, middle of the night, I realized that my inflatable sleeping pad had gone flat. However, I detected no signs of on-coming foot-blisters. Yay!

No! Prim8 complained, as my body pressed against the ground, which felt like concrete.

Crap! We’ll just have to suffer. I’m too tired to get up to reinflate the pad. Or perhaps, it was laziness? Either way, I wasn’t getting up … be damned.

10.18.23, Day 2, “A Taste of Mud” -

My feet greased, socks snugly adjusted and boots laced tightly, we broke camp at 7:30AM.

Again, black flies swarmed about and pestered us as we moved along the trail until we crossed a ridge, where we enjoyed intermittent breezes, which kept the flies away. Following Wrongway, per usual, I saw him approaching me. He said something about checking the trail. And that perhaps, we’d missed a turn.

No! Prim8 protested, as I watched Wrongway retracing our path.

Oh, wonderful! Suck it up, guy. We don’t have a choice.

Moments later, Wrongway motioned and we retraced our course for about 1/4 mile, until he realized we’d been on a newer section of trail which hadn’t been updated on his map app, further confused by the fact that the National Geographic published PCT maps which also didn’t reflect the newer section.

No, Prim8 protested.

Won’t do us any good to complain, Prim8.

So, once again, we headed southbound toward Golden Oaks Spring (583.3), where we arrived at 5PM. I filled my handy, sidekick, pint water bottle from the trickle of water pouring from the small plastic pipe, took a sip, figuring that would be safe.

Blaah, Prim8 said, face contorted.

Tastes like mud, don’t it? Maybe, we shouldn’t be drinking this without treating it first.

Perhaps, nearby resident cows were having their way at my potential expense! Wrongway, on the other hand, filled a 1.5 liter bottle and then filtered that into another bottle, miraculously turned the muddy, weird tasting fluid into quite decent spring water ... or so he said.

Camp set, food and water consumed, Wrongway hung our food in a tree, though we had our doubts that a bear would sniff us out on any nightly rounds, but who knew?

No, no! Prim8 bitched during the night, my sleeping pad gone flat again.

What’s wrong with that thing? Though I conducted a cursory examine, I spotted no rips or tears, nor heard a leak. At least, we didn’t get foot-blisters today, fella.

10.19.23, Day 3, “The Oven” -

Up and away at 6:50AM—anti-foot-blister regimen completed—before sunrise, and under clear sky, we trudged along as the trail ascended. Without the cover of trees at that point, and exposed to full sun, perspiration ran freely.

Hot, Prim8 complained.

I paused to wipe my forehead and catch a breath. Yep. You’ll get no guff from me about that, fella. I would’ve guessed the temperature to be 85-90 degrees, but regardless, I only cared about our rendezvous with Dr. Bobo at the Tehachapi Pass junction (566.4).

Approaching PCT junction with Tehachpi Pass/Highway 58 & Cameron Road exit.

Seemed an interminable distance, but Wrongway and I reached the rendezvous point at 4PM. I consumed about 2/3 of a beer, chilled in the cooler, before we headed to the Red House BBQ Restaurant in Tehachapi for dinner.

Wrongway wanted to spend the night in a motel in Mojave.

Yes, Prim8 demanded at Wrongway’s first mention.

Sounds good to me, fella. I’m tuckered.

After we’d checked into said MO . . L, according to the large neon sign in front, I showered, then dunked my sleeping pad into a partially-filled tub of water, attempting to locate the problem. But, no ... I couldn’t find a leak. There had to be one somewhere!

I’d hoped for a good night’s sleep, but a plague of hiccups dictated otherwise. And those hiccups continued throughout the night, my usual remedy failing! To boot, my upper legs ached. But, glory be, I detected no foot-blisters, and considered that perhaps, I’d discovered a solution to that nagging, painful issue. So, I decided I’d continue my AM foot routine each day before I sashayed down the trail.

No! No! Prim8 protested about one thing, then another.

Are we having fun, yet, Prim8?

Segment Two - Landers Camp Road trail junction (608.9) northbound to Dove Spring Canyon Road trail junction (621.9), no overnights:

10.20.23, Day 4, “Hiccups Galore” -

Wrongway and I parted with Dr. Bobo at Landers Camp Road junction at 10AM. Cool breezes helped prevent black flies from continuously molesting us, and our hike, descending downhill over the thirteen-mile course, went smoothly ... and quickly, it seemed.

We arrived at an intermediate rendezvous point with Dr. Bobo at the trail intersection with Kelso Valley Road where we encountered a large cache of 5-gallon water bottles.

Water cache for PCT Hikers at Kelso Valley Road trail junction.

After consuming sandwiches, courtesy of Dr. Bobo, we continued northbound, destined for Dove Spring Canyon Road intersection (621.9).

Utilizing our three-way make-shift communication network of two Garmin InReach Mini devices and cell phones, Cabo sent a message to Dr. Bobo, requesting a replenishment of a few items, including beer. I added Prilosec to our list, thinking that would at least settle my indigestion … and hopefully quash my hiccups.

Dr. Bobo had already established himself at our planned rendezvous point campsite, cooler restocked, when Wrongway and I arrived at 5PM. A large cache of 5-gallon water bottles, perhaps forty or so, stood ready to parch the thirst of dehydrated hikers, but Wrongway and I had our own rolling buffet, including drink, at the ready, thanks to Dr. Bobo. I coulda had tequila, but didn't want to dehydrate myself needlessly. However, beer seemed permissible. Wasn’t it?

Dr. Bobo's pop-up bar at Dove Spring Canyon Road & PCT junction.

Dr. Bobo gave us the rundown of his resupply mission earlier in the day. Then, he informed me, “I couldn’t get Prilosec, but did get some Pepcid AC.”

“That’ll do,” I said. I’ll give a try, anyway. I downed a Pepcid tab. Fingers crossed, help is on the way, Prim8.

Though that tab seemed to help regarding my stomach problems for the time being, I considered it too early to make a final determination. I’d noticed my appetite had decreased over the past few days, which I chalked up to my sudden, intense physical exertion, though I’d shifted my diet from cooked meals to that of jerky, dried fruit, nuts, and meat and mozzarella sticks. But who knew why, exactly? Prim8 nor I had sway over what my stomach did … or did not do with what I put into it. As long as it did its job without causing me grief, I’d be satisfied with it.

Wrongway and I set up his tent, ate and discussed logistics of our next segment with Dr. Bobo.

Somewhere in the mix, a southbound hiker paused to chat with Wrongway. I didn’t catch their entire conversation, but afterward Wrongway told me, “He gave me the trail name, ‘Cabo,’” explaining that moniker had been inspired by Cabo de Homos emblazoned on Wrongway’s cap … and not from Cabo San Lucas. “I hate Cabo San Lukas,” Wrongway … er Cabo said. (Henceforth, Wrongway’s trail moniker will be Cabo.)

As had been the previous nights, the evening air grew chilly after sunset. And my hiccups had continued intermittently throughout the day and the night, with occasional brief periods of cessation.

Had that Pepcid tab helped? Apparently, the jury was still out!Boiled down, it was just another problem I’d need to contend with somehow.

Segment Three - Dove Spring Canyon Road junction (621.9) northbound to Walker Pass/Hwy 178 (652.0), one overnight:

10/21/23, Day 5, “One Hot Hump” -

Cabo (formerly known as Wrongway) and I left camp at 8AM. We had little to no shade as we hiked up and over two high points, then past Yellow Jacket Spring trail junction (637.0) before settling on a relatively flat cowboy campsite among the trees and some thirty yards off the trail. We’d wanted to shorten the following day’s leg to Walker Pass. Along the way we replenished our water reserves at Bird Spring Pass, where another large water cache of 5-gallon bottles waited.

Cabo and I looked to the patch of clear sky between the tree cover, chatted about and watched satellites passing overhead, for about a half-hour until I turned onto my side in hopes of sleep.

Aww, Prim8 said, hiccups restarted and lower legs aching as we settled in for the night.

Oh, great! Stiff upper lip and all that, Prim8. We’ll get through this.

Stop, Prim8 demanded, as my hiccups continued.

Dang it! I’m afraid we have no control over that, guy.

10.22.23, Day 6, “Take Me Home … Down Rutted Roads” -

Everything slightly damp, Cabo and I broke camp at 7AM. Fog, aka low clouds, hugged the ridges to our east, pushed by the wind. We encountered no flies. The trail, not ideal for hiking, followed a rutted, rocky dirt road we approached McIvers Cabin.

The trail follows a rutted road near McIvers Cabin.

Cooled by breezes, the sky had cleared when we reached the abandoned cabin (2/10 mile off the trail from 643.8).

The well-used, weather-worn, one-room McIvers Cabin.

We paused for food and water.

Cabo collects water from McIvers Spring.

When we continued on, Prim8 began incessantly griping about achy legs.

Prim8 pauses for a breath on the trail.

Dr. Bobo awaited us at the Walker Pass/Hwy 178 turnout. From there, the three of us headed to Inyokern to gas up M’s RAV4, then to the Indian Wells micro-brewery.

Fair warning for parents at the Indian Wells Brewery, Inyokern, CA!

Yum! Prim8 swooned over my bacon-burger and micro-brewed beer.

Tastes like heaven, doesn’t it, fella?!

Returning to purgatory, at least for me, anyway, the three of us drove to an 8,080-foot campsite along a dirt road connector between Chimney Basin Road and Long Valley Road. After we’d set up our tents, and strategically positioned the RAV4 as a windbreak, of sorts, we grabbed food from Dr. Bobo’s cooler. Gusting wind and lower temperatures made milling about downright unpleasant.

Cold, Prim8 complained. Get warm in the car.

I agree. “Let’s sit in the car,” I said to Cabo and Dr. Bobo.

We occupied the empty seats in M’s RAV4, while our collective gear and food claimed the remainder of interior space. We imbibed in shares of medicinal alcohol, and chatted about plans and whatnot before retiring to our sleeping bags.

Segment Four - Chimney Basin Road trail junction (689.1) northbound to Kennedy Meadows (702.2), no overnight:

10.23.23, Day 7, “Moving Right Along” -

Cabo and I started our hike in cool air, with light to no breeze at 8AM. Headed generally downhill on this segment, we hiked quickly under clear sky and along a tributary of the So. Fork Kern River, and finished at 2:17PM.

Segment Five - Chimney Basin Road trail junction (689.1) southbound to Chimney Basin Road trail junction (687.4), no overnight:

10.23.23, Day 7, “Downhill Glide” -

After we’d driven back to our 8,080-foot campsite, Cabo and I hiked the short downhill section (between mile markers 689.1 and 687.4), where the trail crossed the road and which would shorten our following day’s hike. We hoofed that distance in short order, about 45 minutes.

Segment Six - Chimney Basin Road trail junction (687.4) southbound to Canebrake Road trail junction (680.9 and near Chimney Creek Campground), no overnight:

10.24.23, Day 8, “Getting Tried” -

Cabo and I started our day’s downhill leg in pleasant conditions with some breeze ... and sans flies. At that point, we both felt we needed a “lay day.”

We met Dr. Bobo at the road junction near Chimney Creek Campground at 10:50AM, then drove to the campground where we sorted and moved our gear to M’s RAV4. Dr. Bobo remained at the Chimney Creek Campground, while Cabo and I hightailed it to Ridgecrest and settled on rooms at the Motel Six.

10.25.23, Day 9, “R & R” -

Cabo and I, after a good night’s rest, went to breakfast at Kristy’s.

The previous evening’s weather forecast indicated that an Alaskan storm was moving in, and would dump up to five inches of snow in the Sierras. Surely, temperatures would drop. Cabo and I discussed weather developments, and with the probability of precipitation quite low south of Kennedy Meadow, we decided to continue our trekking, though only after acquiring thermal gear at the local Big 5.

Then, we toured the China Lake Museum Foundation, where we learned about weapons testing and development at the Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake. Had to include some change of pace!

After we’d resorted our gear in M’s car, we rendezvoused with Dr. Bobo at Chimney Creek Campground. Once again, Cabo and I shifted our necessary sleeping and hiking food and gear for the next three days into Dr. Bobo’s car. We left M’s RAV4 at Chimney Creek Campground and headed to Walker Pass Campground for the night.

As sunset approached, clouds increased in the So. Fork Valley, and westward of us, as well as above the ridge line to our east.

Panoramic photo of the sunset from Walker Pass Campground.

After we’d set up our tents, we sat in Dr. Bobo’s car, chatted, discussed hike plans and imbibed doses of medicinal alcohol. Though later by previous evenings’ accounts, we’d hit our sleeping bags by 9:30PM.

A cold wind gusted throughout the night, I guesstimated to speeds between 45-50 mph. A case of indigestion plagued me, as well.

No, no, Prim8 whined.

Too late, now, bud. Perhaps, I should've had that Vodka Mary before we came to bed! After I’d pondered my ailment awhile, I took an antacid Pepcid.

Though still facing the indecision about getting up to pee—eventually, that decision would be beyond my rational mind to control, I knew—but feeling sleepy, though unable to fall asleep, and wondering the time, I made a command decision.

I’ll get up and ready for the day’s hike, Prim8, if it’s after 5:30AM. I checked my cell phone. 1:30AM? Oh, crap!

I got up, anyway, needing to pee, regardless, then updated my trail notes, and awaited Mr. Sandman’s return, hopefully sooner rather than later. A nearly-full moon illuminated the valley landscape to our west, while the breeze continued to shove clouds over the ridges to the east.

An hour later, perhaps, I slid into my sleeping bag again, indigestion eased and trail notes updated, to get some additional rest.

Segment Seven - Walker Pass (652.0) northbound to Canebrake Road trail junction (680.9) near Chimney Creek Campground), one overnight (maybe two ... or three?):

10.26.23, Day 10, “The Big Hump” -

We arose around 7AM, ate and broke camp.

When I checked with Cabo and Dr. Bobo, they suggested that overnight wind speeds had been between 10-35 mph.

Nah, no way. Where had they been? Okay, so maybe winds gusts hadn’t reached 50mph, but were surely higher than 25 mph, regardless, nothing you’d want to face bare-butt.

Dr. Bobo dropped Cabo and I at Walker Pass, where we bid him goodbye and a safe drive home. Then, we turned our attention on ascending the first elevation gain of 3K feet, something I’d been dreading for several days, then a second of 1K feet, both standing between us and M’s RAV4 at Chimney Creek Campground.

Wind gusts up to 30mph, I guessed, kept us cool, reduced our sweating, and consumption of water. All the better, since that meant hauling less water in our packs. Bottom line? Less weight! The eastern sky remained cloud covered, while we proceeded at a steady pace of about two mph.

Author poses on the PCT with China Lake (and a portion

of the Mojave Desert) in the distant background.

Cabo pauses to overlook a portion of terrain in the So. Fork Kern River region.

Reassured of good water at Spanish Needle Creek by a southbound hiker, we declined the detour to Joshua Tree Spring trail (a quarter-mile hike off the PCT to the spring itself), and continued along the trail to a suitable flat campsite. We settled on a level spot at a saddle some half-mile farther along the PCT (approx mile marker 664.3).

Though cool and tolerable in the shade at our arrival, the temperature dropped as sunset neared, necessitating a retreat to our sleeping bags while dressed in full gear, sans boots, of course.

Warm. Good, Prim8 swooned, legs snug in the sleeping bag.

Yeah, you can thank me for the foresight to purchase long-john pants in Ridgecrest.

During my frequent, though uncounted, stirrings throughout the night, my sleeping pad gone flat … again, and I noticed the nearly full moon illuminated the landscape and the air had turned frigid.

10/27/23, Day 11, "A Final Kick" -

At 7AM, when we arose, Cabo’s tent screens were saturated with water, and a thin layer of frost covered the surroundings, including our packs.

Frost covers Cabo's pack.

Both Cabo and I knew we’d endured freezing temperature during the night. We departed the campsite at 7:50AM, as we discussed extending our day’s hiking distance, hoping to avoid another frigid night camped on the trail.

Yeah, Prim8 urged.

We’ll just have to “play things by ear,” fella, and see how far we can comfortably go.

A little low on water, we were relieved to see that, in fact, there was a good flow of water in Spanish Needle Creek which we crossed three times. At one crossing we added a liter or so of water to our loads.

As it ‘twas, we plodded along. A southbound hiker mentioned the previous night’s temperature had dropped to 27 degrees. Whether the temperature at our campsite had dipped that low didn't matter to me.

Cold, Prim8 observed.

Yeah, guy, freezing is freezing. We’d experienced thirty-two degrees, at least, and that was all I’d needed to know!

Our hope increased with each step taken, and the 17-mile trek completed by 3:45PM, we made the PCT junction with Canebrake Road (680.9) near M’s car at Chimney Creek Campground, without undue problem.

Yay! Prim8 celebrated.

Agreed. We’ve avoided another cold night on the PCT.

Everything loaded into M’s RAV4, we headed home. I arrived home at 10:15PM, thoroughly pooped and in need of a shower and soft mattress. (PS: I still hadn’t resolved my leaky sleeping pad issue. But you can bet I’ll do so before our next PCT hike! On the other hand, I hadn’t developed a foot blister on this trip, so I’d successfully avoided that trail misery.)